No spark after Coil repclacement

[DX87]

Hi all. I'm having major trouble out of my 87 dx. It will run for anywhere from 3 to five minutes, then when it gets close to operating temp, the tach starts to jump (with no change in rpm) and then a few seconds later the rpms nosedive, Sometimes the rpms come back up once or twice before it dies completely. Then after it dies I get no spark from the coil,( which I have already replaced because I thought this was the problem).After it sits for a while the spark comes back and it will fire right up and do the same thing all over again. I have also replaced the cap and button. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[ahmad89]

Hi all. I'm having major trouble out of my 87 dx. It will run for anywhere from 3 to five minutes, then when it gets close to operating temp, the tach starts to jump (with no change in rpm) and then a few seconds later the rpms nosedive, Sometimes the rpms come back up once or twice before it dies completely. Then after it dies I get no spark from the coil,( which I have already replaced because I thought this was the problem).After it sits for a while the spark comes back and it will fire right up and do the same thing all over again. I have also replaced the cap and button. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Distributor maybe? Maybe you have to time the coil or something, i dont know a lot about this stuff.

[LX-incredible]

Sounds like an igniter. I'm guessing it's an hitachi, the igniter is one with the pickup coil on them, #12:

If it is the tec, the igniter is on the outside of the housing and held on with 2 screws.

[ahmad89]

Sounds like an igniter. I'm guessing it's an hitachi, the igniter is one with the pickup coil on them, #12:

If it is the tec, the igniter is on the outside of the housing and held on with 2 screws.

which one is the igniter in the pic?

[A20A1]

might be the smaller wires in the distributor or the distributor itself is going out.

Also check your grounding wires and clean the terminals of the battery and the wires there too. Just be careful of the shavings cause it's lead.

[DX87]

Is the igniter #12 in the pic? If so, It looks way down in there. I guess I'll have to pull the dizzy? would it be easier to replace the whole dizzy? I know where a couple of wrecked 88 and 89 carbs are. I would think that if they were junked for wrecks, the dizzy would be good. Ya think?

[DX87]

My battery terminals are really corrode, but it still cranks over after it quits, so I wouldn't think that would be the problem, or could it be? I'm a mechanical guy, I work in a die shop, only I work on dies, not cars! Thanks

[ahmad89]

i would get new cables or clean them, my bros cables were really corroded had a light blue powder on them, his car died from the battery being drained. Bought a new battery and cleaned the cables with warm coke (more acidic if warm) and it started right up. But i would change the igniter or do what these guys say, they really are life savers, they helped get my car running.

[ghettogeddy]

i would get new cables or clean them, my bros cables were really corroded had a light blue powder on them, his car died from the battery being drained. Bought a new battery and cleaned the cables with warm coke (more acidic if warm) and it started right up. But i would change the igniter or do what these guys say, they really are life savers, they helped get my car running.

never heard of using coke in the battery but i normally just use a battery terminal cleaner

[LX-incredible]

Is the igniter #12 in the pic? If so, It looks way down in there. I guess I'll have to pull the dizzy? would it be easier to replace the whole dizzy? I know where a couple of wrecked 88 and 89 carbs are. I would think that if they were junked for wrecks, the dizzy would be good. Ya think?

After the cap and rotor are removed, all that is left is the reluctor. It is directly under the rotor and has four teeth on it, easily removed with 2 flathead screwdrivers. No need to remove the dizzy.

[LX-incredible]

never heard of using coke in the battery but i normally just use a battery terminal cleaner

It actually works, I was surprised myself.

[DX87]

So, I pull the cap, button, and the reluctor, which would be # 15 in the exploded veiw. The ignitor is the next one down that connects to the two wires that come through the side of the housing? How expensive is the part? Should I buy it new or go back to the boneyard. When and if I call the parts store should I ask for an ignitor? Is it the same as a pickup coil? Does anyone have a part#. Thanks

[LX-incredible]

You do have the Hitachi, right?
http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/he...All&vinsrch=no

Part # 30120-PH4-005
List Price 213.08
Our Price 159.81

Rockauto has them for like $72, not sure on their quality:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...EPIsubcategory[938],Module%2B%252F%2BIgniter,partGroup,25
I think that getting a couple from the junkyard would be your best bet. Be sure to test the coil, when they are out of spec, they will take out the ignitor.

[DX87]

I'm not sure whch brand of dizzy I have, but the igniter is internal. I took it out and matched it up to a few I found on line and the cheapest I could find is $95. I think I'll go back to the boneyard tomorrow. I can't believe that a part that small is that expensive. Thanks for the info.

[ahmad89]

never heard of using coke in the battery but i normally just use a battery terminal cleaner

coke is the oldest way to clean terminals.

[LX-incredible]

[DX87]

Thanks to everyone who replied. went to the boneyard and got a dizzy off an 89. they wouldn't sell me the igniter alone. It cost $50, which I thought was a little steep, but she runs like a charm now. Thanks again everyone!