is the b18c type r engine worth its $5300 price tag?
is the b18c type r engine worth its $5300 price tag?
No its not, I don't know how all these people keep finding expencive ass B18 engines, but even JHP sells the B18C cheaper then that. Just search around more and you'll find it cheaper.
http://www.jspecauto.com/engine%20prices.html
B18C (96-00 Integra Type- R)
DOHC VTEC 4 Cylinder 16 Valve
• Hydraulic Transmission
• Redline: 8900 rpm
• Diplacement: 1797cc
• Torque: 134 lb-ft@7500
• Horse Power: 210hp@8000
• Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
• Integra-R P73 OBD-2 ECU type.
Price: $5299.00 US Dollars
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http://jdmcars.com/
B18C SPEC-R DOHC
JDM Type R - Hydraulic transmission w/LSD $5500.00
*Features include, DOHC VTEC <<200>> HP. LSD trans.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://jdmhondaparts.com/
B18C JDM Integra Type-R Engine [OBD2]
• The ever-so popular 1.8l Integra-R engine
• OEM race prepped oriented engine, straight from Honda of Japan.
98 - 01
Fully Complete
PRICES START @
$5500.00
IN STOCK
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www.jdm1.com
B18C-R Integra
DOHC VTEC 4 Cylinder 16 Valve
Transmission: Hydraulic
Year: 99-00
Diplacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
HP/Torque: 210hp@8000/134 lb-ft@7500
Redline: 8900 rpm
Status: Very Low Stock Advance Orders Only Price: $5300.00
so far the cheapest i've found it is 5300 for the full swap
JDM ITR engines are damn expensive. There are several versions of the B18C which include JDM ITR, USDM ITR, Teg GSR, etc which is maybe why you found some B18C's for much cheaper. You might be able to find some JDM ITR engines on E-bay for about $4500 or so.
www.b20accord.com
B18A 90-91 1.8 INTEGRA $650
B18B 94-95 1.8 INTEGRA $750
Those engines any good? (from jdmcars.com)
Now:
-1988 Honda Prelude custom
-1988 Honda Accord (to be fixed and sold)
Soon:
-some big 4x4 truck
-91 Acura NSX
http://www.hatetofeelband.com
WOW, they are expencive. But also...when did the JDM ITR B18C obtain 210hp? I thought the maximum that the B18 had stock was 195hp?
<Edit> Ohh and Jim, what would be the difference between the cheap B18C and the expencive B18C? How I see it is that, they are puting midrange performance parts on the Honda Integra Type R engines in Japan, I figure if your gonna fix it up anyways, why not get the cheap B18C since its the same and you can put your own performance parts on it. Correct me if I'm wrong. <Edit>
Last edited by 2Fast_Fiero; 09-12-2002 at 12:04 AM.
B18C1 : GSR
B18C5 : R - higher compression, diff cams, diff intake and exhaust manifold, bigger TB, better gearing, mild factory port n polish,
USDM B18C5 195hp.WOW, they are expencive. But also...when did the JDM ITR B18C obtain 210hp? I thought the maximum that the B18 had stock was 195hp?
JDM B18C5 210hp.
87 4dr LX "It was FREE"
91 CRX Si it was only $500 hehe
A b18c5 motor swap into a 3rd gen I would say would easily cost $7,000 whenever you put the installation costs, mounts, wiring, etc. into account..
Just isnt worth it!
Nate.
If you're going that hardcore, do a CR-VTEC with an ITR head... same high flow on top, more torque on bottom.
~<+045+ygH05+>~
Man I just realized, that sounded like some straight-up poorly translated Indian kamasutra shit...
~<+045+ygH05+>~
why would some one want B18C? so what it makes 210 hp.
for the price you will pay for that engine you can get B16A and Vortech supercharger and still beat B18C by 60Hp.
Alex.
Well, if you have the time and money then go for it. The US GSR engine is a bit easier and cheaper though. Because of CA law (and probably other state laws) you can't legally use the C5 engine in any car, and the GSR engines are much easier to come by.
GO with a B18C1 if ur going with forced induction later due to the lower compression then in the b18c5 the thing about the b18c5 is that it is really an agressive well built engine that can take alot of punishment. I think i saw the b18c5 for around 4500 i will post up the link if i find it...........but yeah TURBO b18c1 like daymn that thing would fly!!!!!
86 Electron Blue Accord Exi
3geez Member since October 31st 2001
7grand my ass. lol. Engine mounts are 150 bucks right, engine costs about 5grand lets say at tops. Make sure in your order, you make sure they send you the right ECU and then your all done, it will only cost you that much if you have an engine shop put it in for you. Ohh yea dude, You CANNOT, ABSOLUTELY CANNOT compare a B16 Engine with a Vortex Supercharger to a BONE STOCK B18. Its not fair in any way. Only way you can compare a B16 engine with a Vortex Supercharger is against a B18 engine with a Vortex Supercharger!
Last edited by 2Fast_Fiero; 09-13-2002 at 11:45 PM.
B18B 1.8 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1834 130hp@6000rpm 121tq@5000rpm '90-'91 Integra GS (USA)
B18B1 1.8 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1834 140hp@6300rpm 121tq@5200rpm '92-'93 Integra GS (USA)
B18B1 1.8 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1834 142hp@6300rpm 127tq@5200rpm '94-'00 Integra RS/LS/GS (USA)
B18C 1.8 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1797 178hp@7600rpm 129@6200rpm '95-'97 Integra SiR (JDM)
B18C1 1.8 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1797 170hp@7600rpm 128tq@6200rpm '94-'01 Integra GS-R
B18C5 1.8 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1797 195hp@7800rpm 130tq@7600rpm '98-'01 Integra Type-R (JDM)
B18C6 1.8 DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1829 ?? ?? '96 Integra Type R
B18C7 1.8 DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1829 ?? ?? '96 Integra Type R
B20A3 2.0 12V SOHC Dual Sidedraft 1955 100hp@5500rpm 107tq@4000rpm '88 - '89 Prelude
'90 Prelude S
B20A5 2.0 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1955 110hp@5500rpm 114tq@4500rpm '87 - '91 Prelude 2.0 Si
B20B 2.0 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1997 126hp@5400rpm 133tq@4300rpm '97-'98 CR-V (USA)
B20Z 2.0 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1997 146hp@6400rpm 143tq@4500rpm '98-'01 CR-V (USA)
B21A1 2.1 16V DOHC PGM-FI 2056 140hp@5800rpm 135tq@3500rpm '90-'91 Prelude Si (USA)
When I do my engine swap in the future, While I'm stock I'm not gonna race anyone in a Honda CRV "MINIVAN" lol
Actually, try $500-$600 for the mounts. $150 is for 3 stock A20 mounts. Plus you need the custom axles, shift linkage, and modified harness which add another $300-$400. Now that you are ready for dropping in a B motor, then you have to think about which engine, tranny and ECU, plus get the right distributor and stuff (OBD crap). Takes quite a bit of work to get everything right. It's not like dropping in the same engine you had before.
www.b20accord.com
Umm, Yasu, JHP Does all that stuff in a package that costs about $5500. And Carrotman allready said that for most swaps you don't need a modified harness. and the engine mounts for our car cost $489.98 + Shipping, JHP's engine swap package comes with the stock mounts, so I'm sure you could sell them to some drunk foo :lol, JHP also comes with the engines ECU and with the harness with the distributer and stuff. So why would you need to do all that shit? If the Engine comes with everything to make it run ( START UP GUARENTEE ) I don't see why you would need to do that, they Guarentee that thier packages when you buy them, the engine will start up as is, they come with everything, they aren't just a block. and I think I've repeated myself in many ways in this post.
They do not have a bolt in guarentee, but they do have a start up guarentee, and that is that when you get the engine, if you can mount it to anything temp. and wire it up right, it will start up.
<EDIT> But in my case I think I would want a diff ECU because Carrotman told me the one they will give me cannot be chiped, and that is something I would wanna do.
It's not that simple. The harness that comes with the engine is probably the stock harness for that engine. Do you think the harness for that engine is going to be the exact same as the A20 harness (things like pin location for each sensor, the numer of pins, etc). Even the 3rd gen B20A requires a bit of modification to the harness to work in our cars. Place Racing makes the harness that is already modified correctly for you so it will plug into the 3rd gen harness with each wire going to the correct pin in the ECU. And about the start up warranty, did you read the part where it says "IF everything is plugged in, wired up, and working correctly"??? Just because they give you a distributor and all the other things that made it start in the original car it came from, doesn't mean it will start and run properly in your car. But then again, what the hell do I know.........
Last edited by YK86; 09-14-2002 at 01:34 AM.
www.b20accord.com
Why would you need to modify a harness for an engine to run with that exact engines ECU? Isn't the B18's Engine Harness made for the ECU that is put in the car that held the B18? Or did they change that? I'm not talking about using our 3rd gen accord ECU's. JHP gives you in the package EVERYTHING you need to start the engine, Engine, everything that bolts onto it, Engine Wireing Harness, and ECU that goes to that engine, All the linkage, Transmission and axles. and thier warentee is for starting the engine, so they tell you that they WARENTEE the engine to start up, when you get the engine and wire it up right and mount it wherever you want, it is supposed to start up, that don't mean your gonna go anywheres, you could have goten the linkage and everything to work for the clutch, and gas peddle perfectly, but you'll have to probably find the right axles, unless the ones off the engine your buying it from has the right size axles. Now I don't know what company your lookin at, I found a few that ONLY sell a long block for the same price. but JHP actualy guarentees that when you get the engine and wire it up, it WILL start and run. But anyways. I'm gonna talk with OSS about all what he had to do, if he remembers lol. I just think the key goal is to get the engine in your posession and know that it runs first before you put it in your car, ya could do what my dad would most likely do, hang the engine with the engine mounts on it and dig holes in the ground for posts, then mount the engine to the posts LMAO. I dunno about you but when I get ready to do an engine swap, I'm gonna have copy machines and digi cams waiting. I'm going to take every bit of evidence I can, I'm gonna get the info of the driver of the truck that delivered it to me, licence plate number, copany that shiped it to me directly, recepits, pictures of the engine before I unwrap it, pictures of the engine after I unwrap it, and I will make a detailed story in Microsoft Word with pictures about EVERY SINGLE move I make when wireing this engine before I start it, and what happens when I try and start it, if nothing works, the next morning I'm calling a layer and gettin one ready, then I'm gonna email the company I bought it from or call them and tell them the story with all my evidence and MAKE THEM tell me why it didn't work...but thats just me :P....I'm gonna look more into what your sayin Yasu, thx!
Ohh and Yasu, I bet you know alot, Your a realy big help on TONS of stuff, and your realy cool to talk to, Glad I know ya!
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