hey guys I need a lil help on my vac removal im doing the stage 4.
first off what is suppossed to go in the two big openings below the bowl vent?
and im unclear on what to do with the thermovalves.....
hey guys I need a lil help on my vac removal im doing the stage 4.
first off what is suppossed to go in the two big openings below the bowl vent?
and im unclear on what to do with the thermovalves.....
send a PM to A20A1, he wrote up most of the carb post on the forum
ok thanks I just wrote him one.
while im waiting on a20a1 if anyone knows the answer let me know.
also does all this look right
dont you love our keihn carbs?.....LOL jp
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
at the moment no lol. I just really wanna make sure I do everything right... from what ive been reading I am supposed to plug the thermo valves can anyone verify that?
Anyone???
that looks good, i done the same on my last car & i tell ya there would be sooooooooooo much more space and possibly alot more power too
really? well maybe you can tell me then on that first pic the two openings into the carb below the bowl vent do I just put the covers back on that or what cuz im kinda lost and what did u do to your thermovalves? did you just cap them all?
i just put the covers back on, and capped off the thermo valves, see my thread for my vacuum removal if you wish https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56537
well my engine is going back in after work tommrow
That first pic, there is supposed to be an inspection sight glass for the float bowl. The other opening is a cover over it. Here is a pic.
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yeah I put them on. my carb looks so bare now. so does my engine bay I removed the cruise unit and all those vac lines going into the bumper and also the metallines connected to the cruise and all thoes units connected to the vaccum. Thank god dayton ohio doesnt have echeck anymore because I would be fucked lol. I also have no cat converter so I would fail right away
I think I can remove the box in the fender too but I really dont wanna take the fender off so im not going to. if I ever change to the z3 fenders ill do it then
that was a quick rebuildOriginally Posted by tuxdreamerx
Let us know how that stage 4 vacuum removal runs. I was going to try it at one time, but finally got my carb to run right after hours of messing with it. I even still want to get a weber, but I'm going to hold off for a while.
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I think I read a post that says do not PM him for technical questions, post on a thread on the subject or start a thread.. I could be wrong thoughOriginally Posted by picopop
Stage four does not use any thermovalves that I remember. But....Depending on your climate you may want to consider keeping the choke set up, vacuum advance thermovalve too, for driveability issues.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 04-08-2007 at 03:09 PM.
im in ohio.... and I already removed the choke and just about everything on the carb lol.
well this rebuild has lasted for 4 months.... so its not that quick
Yeah my mail box gets full, but really its so more members can read up on questions and answers, and any relevant info isn't hiding away in someones PM box where only they can see it.Originally Posted by roodoo2
I would have given you my weber... want a quadrajet insead,Originally Posted by ddude2uc
- llia
Well its like 36 degrees out here and my car wont keep itself idling steady.... damn I regret doing that choke removal...
I have removed almost all of the vacuum lines including the white valves. And Just hooked up the lines shown in the stage one vacuum line removal and am now experiencing hesitation problems. Once over 4k rpm's it takes off but under that it seems gutless. And anyone know of a place to get a brass cap for the air suction tube that comes out of the exhaust manifold.
Thank you for any help, i really need it lol
Crucial.
Last edited by crucial; 09-23-2007 at 06:41 PM.
don't worry about the AS tube.
Did you keep your Air Jet Controller hooked up? when you remove that your carb will run rich.
It also runs rich from removing the vacuum lines in general because you're not letting in extra air bypassing the venturis.
- llia
The air/ fuel mixture screw is on the back side, on the lower plate. It has a tab in there you have to pry out to gain access to the screw. More than likely, you will have to pull the carb off to get it out.
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when i devacs a carb i unscrewed that air mixture screw for the idle and filled it with shit. removed every other bullshit addon to the carb and installed the manual secondary flap and adjusted the idly using the throttle stop screw. worked good till we decided the car needed to be sold
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