either way, im sure a plastic tank weighs a whole lot less than the metal tank does, so replacing it would be beneficial anyhow.
either way, im sure a plastic tank weighs a whole lot less than the metal tank does, so replacing it would be beneficial anyhow.
Also wouldn't advancing the ignition timing work as well. I have my timing advanced along with running a EDM ECU; and everything on my engine is stock with the exception of a K&N Air Filter (Not CAI), and ECU; and a few other regular maintenance parts. I have to run a more stable higher octane fuel. My acceleration is dramtically improved.
Oh and if your going to remove interior parts to reduce weight there are a few unseen things that can be removed. Remove the heatercore, vent ducting, and blower assembly that should take a few pounds off too! Also fiberglass replacement fenders and carbon fiber hood should work also.
I wonder if helium in the tires would work?? LOL. J/K!
Last edited by blh1983; 07-30-2007 at 01:19 PM.
Nitrogen works well in circle track tires because it woulnt expand and up the tire pressure when the tire gets hot.
Also, trust me, a fiberglass fender would be lucky to make it one week. And if you cut the skeleton out under the stock hood it makes it lighter than carbon fiber.
Good info..Originally Posted by Blizzard
the gas tank is under the rear seats...in the trunk its only for the fuel pump and fuel level sender. but its still pass the rear axle
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
the tank is ok
hey man this is bill ive got 14 wins in a row running a 2.0 in a lude on a dirt track.sorry guys i had an accord but i flipped it five times.im not sure if you are new competition for me or not.for the last few weeks ive had a new car every week so come on lets do it...
there is only a few thing u should know one being that real good tires are a must.
the rear is along for the ride it will follow you as long as you are on the gas if you let off it will spin.
learn to drive through the corners your power is on the straight ways .
tire press is very important.
now are you from south carolina?
will you be running modoc?
if so ill see you fri night......
teg gears in the tranny will give you better accel either. can't believe it hasn't been mentioned yet...
well i meant to mention that evry 5 speed we ran runs out of gear 2nd is to low, and third just want pull.so u wind up changing gears the whole time for me i run an automatic in 2ndand hold third for the really fast ones..
the integra 3rd gear is very short. i think top speed is like 80mph at like 6500 RPM.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
go to a 85-87 lude si tranny and an aluminum flywheel with a clutchnet clutch. I think switching fuel pumps is worthless under 200hp or so. I would block off egr also. I agree with rich, i was pulling high 15s on the stock exhaust manifold and a pipe and most of the stock b pipe and cat so they arent crazy restrictive, the biggest restrictions in the stock exhaust are the muffler and the cat. Eliminate the power steering and a/c... Also make sure your intake manifold secondary runner switching is working properly or you will lose power under 5000 rpm it is quite noticeable. You could also switch to a B16 intake manifold and get it to fit, or maybe an LS intake manifold (it is stock honda after all) and have much better flow along with a much larger throttle body.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I switched to a Prelude tranny, and to be honest, it was worthless. Couldnt tell any diffrence at all.
The Integra gear swap made alot of diffrence. But swaping in the Prelude tranny was a waste of time.
only difference is shorter 3rd 4th and 5th gear
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
3rd is why I swaped it to begin with. I race on a 1/4 mile asphalt track. I dont know about 4th or 5th, we only shift up to 3rd. But I couldnt tell any diffrence at all between the Accord or the Prelude RPM wise.
thats because they are almost the same ratio...lude tranny does not have alot of top end. the integra gears are good...only thing is that the 1st gear is a bit taller than the accord 1st gear but 2nd 3rd and 4th gear are short and close ratioed.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
fuel rails are good to get and so are new injecters it sounds like it dont help but it dose alot more then you think. i have a 88 hb lxi and it is so much faster with just new injecters
new injctors are cool as long as they are stock.
The old pgm fi ecu's cant manage the af mixture with biguns.
ifyou go for biguns, will prob need an aftermarket ecu.
When i was at trade school doing my pre apprenticeship stuff.
There was a dude with a gen5 lxi.
He had big tb,tuned headers and 2.5 inch pipe.
h22a injectors an adjustable fuel press regulator and he had no end of troble
getting it to run well at all.
The tutors and i concluded that the computer couldnt adjust the pulse width
fine enuff to control the mixture.
the only way round it was an aftermarket ecu with better control than the
Factory one could do.
Best it could manage was 10% co on the ega machine.
Way to rich eh.
Anyone had different experiances
Would be interested to hear
The problem with larger injectors on a stock ECU is that they inject more fuel than the computer expect for a given pulse width. The other problem is that even if you have an aftermarket ECU, injectors that are too large for the engine will make the idle and light throttle cruise unstable. Because the injectors have such a high flow rate the idle pulse width has to be really low to get the proper mixture, but at such low pulse widths the actual flow from the injectors is not very predictable, making the idle crappy. Think of it like trying to drink from a fire hose.
This is where fuel management comes in. If you have a pressure regulator that can lower the fuel pressure when demand is low, the computer can use larger pulse widths because the injectors wont be blasting is tons of fuel.
C|
with this gen5 that was at the pre trade course,even dropping the fuel pressure to below stock didnt help.
When you do that ,the fuel droplets are to big for the engine to burn completely,hence the high co readngs, the hc were pretty high as well.
If you can get an injector that can run at high pressure and an ecu that has very high processing speed and can handle 1 milisecond adjustablity you would be beter off.
The high pressure gets you a better atomised fuel mix,easier to burn.
And the higher processing speed and pulse width adjustment should be able to give a good mixture.
Everything else is up to the ignition system to be able to light it properly.
Most of the high co and hc readings i've come across are from a poorly set up or faulty ignition systems
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