knocking sound ?

[oldsteveo]

I've got this `83 accord that burned some valves. So I pulled the head and sent it out for a valve job. After install I got 180 pounds compression. After running it for 3 or 4 months I have aquired a knocking in number 1 piston. I'm guessing it's a rod bearing? Right? So, what am I looking at to replace the rod bearings? When I had the head off, there was very very little ridge on the top of the cylinders. So, with 180 pounds comp. I don't really want to disturb the upper end. When I pull the pan, what will I find? should I replace the oil pump? if the crank is not scored, can I just put in a set of stock sized bearings? or do i need to do the plastic gauge thing? I'm an old chevy guy and not really sure what i'm going to find. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Steve

[85SE-i]

Theese cars have problems with the oil pumps going bad. I would replace the oil pump first before you tear into the bottom end and see if it solves your problem. More often than not it will. A good indication of a bad pump is the oil light will flicker on and off at idle. If you do end up installing new rod bearings, GET HONDA BEARINGS. I can't stress this enough, when you build a Honda engine always install Honda bearings. Honda blueprints the engines from the factory and they have/use all different sizes which are determined by color markings on the old bearings. Aftermarket companies/parts retailers will want to sell you a "standard" size bearing but in a Honda, not every journal is going to use the same size bearing. If the color markings are gone or are badly faded you can determine the correct colors using a factory service manual.

[85SE-i]

Oh and by the way, if you didn't know, the oil pump is behind the timing cover and is driven by the timing belt. It is kinda similar to the timing belt/water pump setup on newer Hondas. Plasti Gauge is always a good idea even if you go with Honda bearings, just in case your crank is really worn. Not really common but it happens.

[Ichiban]

Actually on an 83's EL/EK engine, the pump sits under the block and is driven by the camshaft via a pump drive shaft.

[2ndGenGuy]

Actually on an 83's EL/EK engine, the pump sits under the block and is driven by the camshaft via a pump drive shaft.

+1

If you just wanna swap out the bearings, and the journals look ok, you have two options.

1) Take it to a shop and have the journals mic'd. They can tell you if the crank is out of tolerance.

2) Buy a set of STD size bearings and Plastigauge them. If you install them and the tolerances are all in spec, then you're good to go.

Unfortunately the color-coded bearings aren't available anymore, and turning down a Honda crank is not recommended by any machinist I've spoken with, due to the hardened surface. So, IMO, oversized bearings are out of the question, and STD size is all you really have.

[85SE-i]

Actually on an 83's EL/EK engine, the pump sits under the block and is driven by the camshaft via a pump drive shaft.

You are correct, I was thinking of the ES2/ES3. I believe last time I checked the Honda bearings were still available but that was a while ago. Honda is throwing out/discontinuing lots of stuff lately. We are even seeing things from the early 90s coming up unavailable.