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Thread: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

  1. #1
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    I am going to be ordering my jdm a20a with the next month , I plan to put it on the engine stand over the winter and build it. I want to make it a N/a build so no turbo or supercharger.

    I am looking for advice and any certain brand on the following:

    Short Shifter
    Clutch,Pressure Plate, Flywheel
    Spark Plugs & Wires
    Cam Gears
    Cams
    Intake Manifold
    Pulleys
    Throttle Body
    Radiator Hoses
    Lifters
    Motor Mounts/Inserts
    Piston Rings
    Rocker Arms & Studs
    Valve Springs, Retainers
    Injectors
    Fuel Pump
    Fuel Rail
    Radiator
    Connecting Rods... I heard the eagle H rods from a LS intergra work but what yr?
    Head Bolts
    Head Gasket
    I want to port and polish the head, any advice?
    Raise or Lower Deck Height?
    How Many angle valve job?

    Thanks in advance!
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"



  2. #2
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    jdm a20? do you mean b20? theres no difference between jdm and usdm a20 engines that i know of cept the a20a4 might have less emissions stuff on it

  3. #3
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    well its the only motor I could find to replace my current one . If I could find a USDM one I would do that. I want something plug and play so another a20 is key.
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  4. #4
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    no junk yards had a 3g just sitting in the yard with a decent motor

  5. #5
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    not sure, I want to know it runs for sure.
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    I am looking for advice and any certain brand on the following:
    Short Shifter - pacesetter
    Clutch,Pressure Plate, Flywheel - clutchnet
    Spark Plugs & Wires - ngik
    Cam Gears - golden eagle only availiable fron the group buy and i think there $155
    Cams - delta 272 or colt tri flow
    Intake Manifold - b series
    Pulleys - custom only
    Throttle Body - whatever fits
    Radiator Hoses - stock -custom
    Lifters - custom
    Motor Mounts/Inserts - custom
    Piston Rings stock
    Rocker Arms & Studs stock
    Valve Springs, Retainers stock
    Injectors - whatever fits
    Fuel Pump - whatever fits
    Fuel Rail - whatever fits
    Radiator - koyo
    Connecting Rods... I heard the eagle H rods from a LS intergra work but what yr? there the rods from the b18a i think
    Head Bolts
    Head Gasket - honda oem
    I want to port and polish the head, any advice? talk to a shop
    Raise or Lower Deck Height? lower i think
    How Many angle valve job? 3
    Thanks in advance!

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran russiankid's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    not sure, I want to know it runs for sure.
    Well since you are rebuilding doesn't matter if it runs. Good luck on the build. Is there a certain power range you are looking for?
    Sam


    1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner

    Current:
    2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
    2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)

  8. #8
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    250 at most
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  9. #9
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    not sure, I want to know it runs for sure.
    you can't get one stateside? just seemed like it would be cheaper cause u dont have to ship accross the pacific but whatever works

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    250 at most
    ull never hit that without turbo

  11. #11
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    ok, does anyone know where can I get a low mile a20 ?
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  12. #12
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    GATES Part # 38030 {Belt Drive Pulley Steel V-Ribbed 4 Grooved (70mm x 17mm x 20.5mm) $25.99 on rock auto, I guess they do make them
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  13. #13
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    GATES Part # 38030 {Belt Drive Pulley Steel V-Ribbed 4 Grooved (70mm x 17mm x 20.5mm) $25.99 on rock auto, I guess they do make them
    thats a stock part

  14. #14
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    ok
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  15. #15
    3Geez Veteran MessyHonda's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    this is the stuff openloop used on his 165whp engine. and yeah 250hp is not reallistic with out turbo or nos

    A20a3
    Standard Ph4 1mm overbore pistons
    Stock Rods ARP rod bolts
    83.7mmx91mm
    Stock valves/springs/retainers
    Welded Combustion chambers, P&P head (around 10.5:1 CR)
    P&P B16a intake manifold
    63mm overbored LS TB
    8lbs custom aluminum flywheel
    Custom aluminum underdrive crank pulley
    256/270 cam or race 289 cam. I have both.
    Golden Eagle Cam Gear
    Obd 1 conversion
    Chipped P75 Ecu
    290cc Prelude OBD2 injectors
    B&M fuel pressure regulator
    MSD 7AL2, and blaster coil
    DC sports Header

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

  16. #16

    snoopyloopy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    ok, does anyone know where can I get a low mile a20 ?
    does it matter if you're rebuilding it? if i were you, i'd just head over to local jy and grab an engine there. and while you're at it, grab a 1g teg manual tranny to swap the internals into your accord tranny to get shorter gears = quicker accel.

  17. #17

    2drSE-i's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Short Shifter - pacesetter or DC sports if u can find it
    Clutch,Pressure Plate, Flywheel - clutchnet
    Spark Plugs & Wires - NGK V-power plugs, Wires (i have a set of wires for sale, PM me)
    Cam Gears - golden eagle only availiable fron the group buy and i think there $155
    Cams - delta 272 or colt tri flow
    Intake Manifold - b16/b18
    Pulleys - Easily made by any decent machine shop
    Throttle Body - b16/18 and have it bored, again any machine shop
    Radiator Hoses - stock/custom easily done
    Lifters - custom/OEM
    Motor Mounts/Inserts - custom/3m Window Weld filled (lol)
    Piston Rings - stock
    Rocker Arms & Studs - stock
    Valve Springs, Retainers - stock/from a different model (there is research beign done as to whether different models have stronger springs.
    Injectors - DSM
    Fuel Pump - walbro 255 lph
    Fuel Rail - kinda custom
    Radiator - koyo
    Connecting Rods... I heard the eagle H rods from a LS intergra work but what yr? there the rods from the b18a i think
    Head Bolts - ARP
    Head Gasket - honda oem
    I want to port and polish the head, any advice? talk to a shop
    Raise or Lower Deck Height? lower i think
    How Many angle valve job? 3
    '89 SE-i Coupe
    Awaiting Garage
    Quote Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter View Post
    its better to be retarded than advanced

  18. #18
    3Geez Veteran MessyHonda's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    whole rebuild is going to be like 1k-2k depending on how crazy you go with it.

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

  19. #19

    snoopyloopy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    idt he'll be down for that. i kinda get the feeling he thought he was buying a civic. or at least a 4g, where you can easily swap your way to more power.

  20. #20

    cygnus x-1's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Go to a local junkyard and look for a wrecked Accord. I say wrecked because if it was wrecked that's probably why it's there and there is a good chance the engine was still running. Or if you can find one with under 150k miles it will likely be just fine anyway.

    There are only a few critical pieces that you need to be sure of when you start the rebuild. Those would be the block, head, and crank. The block needs to be free of cracks and other damage and the cylinder bores need to be sufficiently close to stock so as to not need a major re-bore. If you plan to use stock Honda pistons then the bores need to be no larger than 83mm. Otherwise you'll need after market pistons, in which case you'll have to go forged for the kind of power you want. Any engine under 200k miles will likely have a usable block. The head should also be free from damage (warping, cracking) and the cam seats need to be in spec. This should be no big deal with any engine under 200k miles. The head surface should be milled true no matter what to ensure proper head gasket sealing. The crank needs to be straight and the journals free of damage. Again, any engine with less than 200k miles should have a good crank.

    Most of the other parts (that could be worn out) you will probably replace anyway for a serious rebuild. All bearings, seals, pistons, rings, oil/water pumps, hoses, belts, should be replaced. New ARP head and rod bolts are cheap and good insurance. The cam would be sent out for a regrind. Rockers should be replaced. Valves can be reused if they're in good shape. Valve springs can be reused if they are in good shape but you should consider getting springs from an A18 (Prelude) head since they are stiffer. You could also do a big valve conversion but that would require major custom work and you would obviously need new valves.

    The best course of action would be to go find a lower mileage wrecked car at a junkyard and pull the entire engine and trans. Disassemble everything and have the major components checked at a reputable machine shop and then go from there. Even if you end up with some bad parts it's not that big a deal since Accords are plentiful and cheap at junk yards.

    Once you have a block, head, and crank you can start on any machine work and begin ordering parts. You haven't mentioned whether you will be doing any of the work yourself or what kind of budget you have. If you are having a shop do most of the work be prepared to spend some serious cash, maybe a few thousand. Engine work is not cheap if you want it done right. If you can at least do the assembly that will help quite a bit.

    I wrote a huge thread about my rebuild over on Prelude Power. The first post has a list of most of the parts I used and machine work done along with the sources and prices.

    http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...ighlight=a20a1


    C|

  21. #21
    LX User 87LXiR's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    According to their website they can custom make stroker kits for any car, but you should call just to make sure. www.paeco.com, of course you probly need some serious cash. Good luck
    No more 3G but that doesn't mean i cant look at yours...

  22. #22
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
    Go to a local junkyard and look for a wrecked Accord. I say wrecked because if it was wrecked that's probably why it's there and there is a good chance the engine was still running. Or if you can find one with under 150k miles it will likely be just fine anyway.

    There are only a few critical pieces that you need to be sure of when you start the rebuild. Those would be the block, head, and crank. The block needs to be free of cracks and other damage and the cylinder bores need to be sufficiently close to stock so as to not need a major re-bore. If you plan to use stock Honda pistons then the bores need to be no larger than 83mm. Otherwise you'll need after market pistons, in which case you'll have to go forged for the kind of power you want. Any engine under 200k miles will likely have a usable block. The head should also be free from damage (warping, cracking) and the cam seats need to be in spec. This should be no big deal with any engine under 200k miles. The head surface should be milled true no matter what to ensure proper head gasket sealing. The crank needs to be straight and the journals free of damage. Again, any engine with less than 200k miles should have a good crank.

    Most of the other parts (that could be worn out) you will probably replace anyway for a serious rebuild. All bearings, seals, pistons, rings, oil/water pumps, hoses, belts, should be replaced. New ARP head and rod bolts are cheap and good insurance. The cam would be sent out for a regrind. Rockers should be replaced. Valves can be reused if they're in good shape. Valve springs can be reused if they are in good shape but you should consider getting springs from an A18 (Prelude) head since they are stiffer. You could also do a big valve conversion but that would require major custom work and you would obviously need new valves.

    The best course of action would be to go find a lower mileage wrecked car at a junkyard and pull the entire engine and trans. Disassemble everything and have the major components checked at a reputable machine shop and then go from there. Even if you end up with some bad parts it's not that big a deal since Accords are plentiful and cheap at junk yards.

    Once you have a block, head, and crank you can start on any machine work and begin ordering parts. You haven't mentioned whether you will be doing any of the work yourself or what kind of budget you have. If you are having a shop do most of the work be prepared to spend some serious cash, maybe a few thousand. Engine work is not cheap if you want it done right. If you can at least do the assembly that will help quite a bit.

    I wrote a huge thread about my rebuild over on Prelude Power. The first post has a list of most of the parts I used and machine work done along with the sources and prices.

    http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...ighlight=a20a1


    C|
    Not sure on my budget yet, buliding it over the winter but I think it would be easier and cheaper to buy a low mile running a20 and modify it slowly over the winter. i might go the route you suggested if I cant find a good motor. 90% of the work I will be doing myself.
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  23. #23

    snoopyloopy's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    Not sure on my budget yet, buliding it over the winter but I think it would be easier and cheaper to buy a low mile running a20 and modify it slowly over the winter. i might go the route you suggested if I cant find a good motor. 90% of the work I will be doing myself.
    well, are you going to rebuild it or not? if you rebuild it, the mileage is less important since i presume you'll at least hone the block and change bearings/seals. by time you do that, it's about as good as new. and buying one of those "jdm" engines off ebay may give you a low-mileage engine, but i'd only go that route if i was going to drop it straight in without a rebuild. and beyond that, you have to pay shipping, whereas your local jy won't have shipping and will probably refund you a core charge if you bring back the other engine = much cheaper.

  24. #24
    LX User hanginbyaccord's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    I want to rebulid it but that would probally cost more than buying a running engine and just putting it in. If I do decide to rebulid the motor in my car where would I start? how much am I looking at ? what all would need to be done? hone ? It has 266K on it but runs perfect, could I rebulid it to make it more stronger and etc?
    It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
    "No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"

  25. #25
    3Geez Veteran MessyHonda's Avatar
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    Re: asking for advice on how to bulid a20

    Quote Originally Posted by hanginbyaccord
    I want to rebulid it but that would probally cost more than buying a running engine and just putting it in. If I do decide to rebulid the motor in my car where would I start? how much am I looking at ? what all would need to be done? hone ? It has 266K on it but runs perfect, could I rebulid it to make it more stronger and etc?


    if you want to keep the cost low just get bolt on mods like Cold air Intake, Headers, Exhuast, Bigger cam and adjustable cam gear.


    i only have cold air intake,4th gen sensor, adjustable cam gear and exhuast with cat and muffler and my car is making 3 more hp to the crank than stock.....and my engine has 147k miles on it.

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

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