Very Good ... things to double check before you go swapping computer controls. Your car is reading good at road speed and seem reading Hi CO just off idle and before good air flow..So ignition and timing curve check would right on the money in that range.
O2 sensors generally , if they are sho nuff bad will make it run rich all the time, but if is just tired and starting to go bad it may take a fraction of a second more to read to the computer in time to make mix adjustments.
That is one of the reasons I suggested bumping the timing (ign) up even if you dont leave it that way, just for the test.
Lots of good points mentioned, got to have timing & spark of coarse. That IAT sensor plays a good part in ECU input & injector pulse. I googled this link up why I mentioned it. Check it out. Click on the blue link in the sentence too. (yeah, that is diesel engine, but it works the same principal in NA engines)
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/sensors/IAT/clean.htm
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 08-17-2007 at 03:39 PM.
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Since you have MSD blaster 2 coil you can make spark plug gap a little bigger. .04 or .045 that will increase amount of spark and time it will stay on. try that.
as far as injectors, 4G accord has same injectors are we do. it is the same flow rate. so you shouldn't have any problems with it.
Cat, well high flow cat may be your problem at this point. I don't know why people buy into the idea that cats are very restrictive. Stock honda one is very restrictive but aftermarket ones are not that bad.
this is what I had to get to pass MD emissions. http://www.car-sound.com/02product/d...irectfit=22623
I got it on ebay for $70 shipped to my door.
so search the ebay for that part number. It worked great, all my numbers were very low.
Alex.
does anyone know if I should leave the timing alone at the stock setting or adjust it before I take it in today for retesting
umm yea well u shouldnt mess with the timing bc its part of hte test also...but have u check ur fuel pressure regulator...bc it is vacuum controled on a FI car. if the car is running at a low RPM it will have less fuel pressure and if the RPM is high it will allow more fuel. so if tat is leaking or the diaphram is ruin. then it will always have a rich mixture. which is like 30 to 40 psi of fuel in ur rail. jsut letting you kno. besides tat causes of high CO can be stuff like CAT, O2 sensor, leaky injector...etc... its a rich problem for sure.or u can have a leak right b4 the o2 sensor which will give it a reading tat ur car needs more fuel... tats all i can think of for now...GL man
Ok here's what is going on so far
Most of you know that the engine has been fully rebuilt on the car and she is still running rich and wont pass smog.
So far aside from the rebuild I have replaced the following:
engine was block was bored out to .020
stock camshaft with GE Cam gear set at zero
4th gen Injectors (new Bosch units)
New oxygen sensors
New Magnaflow Cat.
MSD Coil
fuel pressure regulator was replaced 2years ago when I bought the car, I'm thinking thats the problem.
soullessknight suggested the pressure regulator,
HELP!!!
I'm at the end of my rope and I need valid suggestions on getting this fixed or I'm going to SELL THE CAR
... or I'm going to SELL THE CAR
i believe its isopropyl alcohol that you add into your tank so that you can run engine hotter, with lower emisions...its not good for a daily thing since it will OVER heat your engine quite fast and maybe even blow something....but i THINK this is what could help you...im not sure ill ask my friends at school tmrw so dont jump to anything....
also i know that hydrogen peroxide works as well...but you would have to put it threw a distillation process *if you where to get it over the counter* and at that u can only get 2-4% max from each bottle you buy, and a big warning of explosion(s)....
but again ill ask my buds at school
Just Get Er DONE!
brake caliper and zip-ties what do they have in common???=GettoGeddy...
Best not run iso or hydrogen peroxide in your car.
How the plastic fuel lines will handle it is abit on the iffy side.
the american market might not have them but my jdm si duz , and i'm not to keen on a petrol fire in the passenger compartment.
dam bro that sucks that you cant get it to pass dont give up tho!
Pico don't give up, it running rich isn't the end of the world.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
What did it fail on?
It worked on my SE-i. I failed on excess hydrocarbon so I bought the CRC stuff and ran an entire tank of gas through it. Just before I went to the test I put a full tank of gas in without this additive in it. It passed with low numbers. I later changed my cat and it has passed ever since.
my friend that knows about this wasnt there at school today...so your gonna have to wait till i talk to him on monday sorry...
Just Get Er DONE!
brake caliper and zip-ties what do they have in common???=GettoGeddy...
High CO levels is most likely your cat. Is your engine running cool? Thermostat temp lower than OEM?
yeah i have herd of the thermostat making the car run rich. aparently getting a higher temp one makes your car run better. my mate has the same problem in his civic, it runs rich and sometimes misses and pisses round when its cold. he even swapped engines and the other one does the same thing its like its the cars fault its running rich haha. i have no idea why cars do it. even mine runs a bit on the rich side
better put those old injectors in before you put that in your tank, Iso alchohol reaks havoc on your electronic injectors and injector circuit to the ECM
Do they check your timing at teh smog station? if not see my first couple of posts on this thread
I thought you maybe knew somebody that had an old CO meter and tailpipe sniffer to see what is up so you can check it good before the test ??? this equipment has been around for years although it is not as sufisticaked .lol as the new stuff
edit.. Hey I just thought of something else too that could drive you nuts.. evap system. does your gas cap swoossh when you open it? lol.. sometimes the fuel pickup screen and lines going to the tank from the filler neck, charcoal cansiter.. can get obstructed and cause a lot of fumes to build up in the system that is powered by ... engine vacuum.. so it can back up to the point that is sucks fumes into the mixture at the vacuum source
Last edited by 2oodoor; 09-30-2007 at 05:54 AM. Reason: thought of something else
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