Hey! The carb came! I'll post some pics. The carb is stamped 38DGASM 330 05 though. Does this mean they sent the DGAS instead of the DGES. Or do I need the DGES with the electric choke? Instead of the water choke? How do these two types of chokes differ? Can I use tyhe 38 DGAS?
Pics
sorry i dont know my carbs but that lil carb looks bad ass.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Yep. That's a DGAS. The only difference is the choke; water vs. electric. The electric choke is probably easier (mine is a DGAS so I don't know about the electric version) but the water choke works too. You just need to plumb it into the coolant system.
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that looks like a DGES though, I don't see any water ports for the hoses?
Anyways you can use either.
Whats the "M" for in DGASM?
do you have your manifold adapter ready?
- llia
Hmm. The choke isn't really visible but in the third picture it looks like the choke cover is silver, which would be like my DGAS. But I don't see the water taps though. The DGAS has two water taps on the choke cover. The DGES just has a little electrical connector on the middle. Here you can see it.
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Eng...eber_38-38.jpg
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Last edited by cygnus x-1; 09-16-2007 at 07:01 PM.
I used to have that throttle linkage on my DGEV too. I don't know how many times I had that thing come loose or slip off... I had the cable break on me once because it was pinched in there so badly. I wound up pulling the throttle open and sliding the cable through one of the holes just to make it fit. It gave me a fixed throttle at about 3000rpm. Kinda scary to drive a car like a lawn tractor.
I fixed it by soldering a ring terminal onto the cable. That thing will NEVER come loose. What sucks is that if it ever breaks for some reason, I've got no slack to play with. But it's worked great so far, so we'll see what happens.
So after an extremely lengthy hiatus, I'm back and going to attempt installing my carb this weekend. School got crazy and I had to put it all off until this summer. Got the S&S header on earlier this week and very impressed with the output. Noticeable mid-high range gain and a deeper, throatier sound.
I have been doing some research and flagged a few important topics. It seems as though i need to plug some coolant lines/passages on the carb... I did not know this until today. Are there any step by step installation guides out there on these threads for a 38 weber? I have found a couple vague ones and am definitely not confident in my ability to make assertions and assumptions. I am confusing myself with questions like does it matter whether or not I plug certain valves and openings where useless hoses once ran from to the OEM carb?
I also see that it is necessary to customize the throttle linkage and possibly file the adapter plate to make it bigger so that it will accomodate the throttle plate on the 38.
Sorry for the knowledgeless questions. Any input would be appreciated as I'd like to get this started and have a backup car for the time being. Thanks.
Last edited by Bad Bunny; 07-18-2008 at 03:57 PM.
Most of the knowledge base is out there but I will answer any questions you run across, no problem.
You plug off and remove almost everything !
I will take some good pics of mine and post them up this afternoon.
Good choice in the 38, If I had it all to do over I would have got that one to start with.
Thanks Roodoo.
I did get it installed and it did run fairly decently! I don't have throttle linkage hooked up yet but I ran it anyway. After removing everything from the OEM carb (and you really do remove a lot! It's awesome), I have only re-hooked up the #2 and #25 vacuum hoses using a T to run them into one hose (the #2 that enters the back of the manifold. I hope this is correct...)
Basically, I have re-hooked up those two vacuum lines merged into 1, the fuel line, and the electric choke and that's it. Anything that was attached to the manifold and didn't need to come off with the OEM carb stayed (brake booster, etc.).
As far as plugging holes goes, there are a few little vacuum hoses coming out of the rear of the manifold that are pretty well useless now. Do I have to plug these? What will happen if I leave these little hoses un-plugged for now? Similar question with the two big ports on the manifold too, one of which is definitiely a big vacuum.
There is also a coolant line coming out of the back of the manifold (rather small line). Is it plugged too?
Regards.
yes plug that one off good, remove the line and "filter" thing bolted under the intake manifold. Also did you jb weld the coolant port under the carb? I really recommend porting the divider inside the manifold too. If you want my jet sizes I will share them, cygnus-x1 tuned this one with a wideband on a mildley modded A20 and it runs perfect on my stock one, it is unbelievable.
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more pics on your other thread
oh and that duct tape is temporary, I glued a wine cork in that tube and the tape was holding it till it cured, the cork fit nice and tight though. That is until the header is put on, then I will do away with the pipe all together.
I took the oem carb cable holder (crescent shaped) dremeled the tap off and attached it to the weber linkage, it works better and you don't have to cut the end off the cable that way.
Cool.
Did JB weld that coolant port - I actually used JB weld; I think A20A1 used quick steel.
what pipe is that, that you put the cork in?
I am so addicted to my wide band O2 sensor. I think I would actually die without it.
The tube with the duct tape, that's the air suction tube. It lets fresh air into the exhaust to help complete combustion of any unburnt hydrocarbons. But it doesn't help us go any faster, so screw that.
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Ok. I thought it was the AS. I actually hooked mine up as the S&S has a mount for it.
Cygnus: I used the jetting that you once told me about sometime ago.
It runs fairly decently after fiddling with the fuel adjustment screws for a night and tuning to its current jetting. I have it idling at about 850 rpm not to rich and not to lean.. I think. I do notice that sometimes when I come to a standstill, it wants to idle high (like 1500-2000) and if I put it into park or neutral, this goes up to like (2500-3000) until I kick it once or twice back down to 850 or so. This only occurs at some intersections. Often, it just idles normally. Anybody have any ideas as to why it would sometimes idle high like this? I am no mechanic but I was thinking it may have something to do with the fact that it is a performance carb and in taking in too much fuel to burn if I haven't stomped on it in a while... so it takes care of it at idle or something... I don't know
Last edited by Bad Bunny; 07-22-2008 at 08:42 AM.
sounds like the choke and idle linkage is binding..
say, how does your car shift now.. I was anticipating some issues with the TV cable using the 38 on the automatic car I have.
I guess you know mine is an auto too?Originally Posted by roodoo2
It seems to shift fine. I'm getting used to the new feel of the pedal (stiffer) and noticed last night a couple of times that it shifted kind of slow right from the standstill but I think that was because my mixture was to rich and the cable still needed a slight bit of adjusting.
How to check if choke is binding?
Ditto on the sticky linkage. Pretty much you just have to look at it and see if it's getting stuck somewhere. A light spritz of spray on lithium grease might help out. Or a few drops of light oil on any pivots.
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I notice that sometimes after opening it up, the throttle linkage plate does not come all the way back to the idle adjustment screw but if I just push it back with my finger, the idle bumps down just fine. I tried attaching the return spring but it didn't have much effect.
I don't know a lot about this stuff but would it make sense to turn the idle adjustment screw until it is where the throttle linkage likes to stop and then using a smaller idling jet? Or does anyone know what would cause the throttle to stick? It's only feeler gages away from the screw, but that's enough to keep the idle up at 1500-2000.
Last edited by Bad Bunny; 07-29-2008 at 12:04 PM.
I finally have some photos up in my cardomain account. Check them out if you're interested.
I found another sweet weber 32/36 today at the JY. I left it there as I was on a last scavege hunt for a prelude b20a4 dc header before I start hacking up this exhaust. I have the A20 dc downpipe welded to the rest of the exhaust.
The weber looked practically new, I may go back and get it just to add to the collection it looked like one of the original designs with the logo and weber icon cast into the body and the top hat.
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