Where to get a 38/38 Weber from?

[Bad Bunny]

Hello,

I'm new to the forums as far as posting but have been reading for a while in order to research some engine mods for my car. My question is about trying to find a 38/38 Weber? I can find the 32/36 conversion everywhere.

From what I can tell there is no 38 conversion kit made for the car, so i will need to jet it myself. Will I need any sort of adaptor plate to hook it up to the head?

The final plan is to run
32/36 or 38 Weber
272 Cam and gear
Header to a 2.25 Catback

Other questions:
a) Will the stock valve springs be fine with a 272?
b) Will i need a bigger fuel pump for the 32/36 or 38?
c) Do I need 2.25 or will 2 suffice

This seems to be a reasonable build for the engine to be used as a daily driver. Any comments on the planned setup?

The car is an 87 Accord LX.

Thanks

[ghettogeddy]

Hello,
I'm new to the forums as far as posting but have been reading for a while in order to research some engine mods for my car. My question is about trying to find a 38/38 Weber? I can find the 32/36 conversion everywhere.
From what I can tell there is no 38 conversion kit made for the car, so i will need to jet it myself. Will I need any sort of adaptor plate to hook it up to the head?
The final plan is to run
32/36 or 38 Weber
272 Cam and gear
Header to a 2.25 Catback
Other questions:
a) Will the stock valve springs be fine with a 272?
b) Will i need a bigger fuel pump for the 32/36 or 38?
c) Do I need 2.25 or will 2 suffice
This seems to be a reasonable build for the engine to be used as a daily driver. Any comments on the planned setup?
The car is an 87 Accord LX.
Thanks

springs shoud be fine
not sure on the fuel pump
id say stick with 2 inch thats what im gona go with but there prolly isent a dif

[2ndGenGuy]

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp

[DDRaptor]

geez $700 for a dual DCOE's Damn my dream setup just took a .45 to the chest.

[2ndGenGuy]

geez $700 for a dual DCOE's Damn my dream setup just took a .45 to the chest.

$700 isn't a bad price. Look up the 45 or 48 DCOE's. They usually go for $1000-1200

[Bad Bunny]

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp

Will this bolt right up to the head?

[A20A1]

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4223

the 38 needs the same adapter plate as the 32/36, so you can buy a 32/36 kit and ask if they can substitute the 38 instead.

The throttle plate on the 38 could be bigger than the opening in the adapter plates so you can easily take a file and make the opening bigger.

geez $700 for a dual DCOE's Damn my dream setup just took a .45 to the chest.

Ebay is your friend. you can fin sets for 300$ - $600 if you're lucky. Also try Mikuni sidedrafts since they are simmilar.

[cygnus x-1]

Hello,

I'm new to the forums as far as posting but have been reading for a while in order to research some engine mods for my car. My question is about trying to find a 38/38 Weber? I can find the 32/36 conversion everywhere.

From what I can tell there is no 38 conversion kit made for the car, so i will need to jet it myself. Will I need any sort of adaptor plate to hook it up to the head?

Yes. The same adapter that you use for the 32/36 is used for the 38/38. They have the same base pattern. You might also want the throttle linkage kit too. I needed it for mine but I started with a used carb and it had a different linkage on it.

The final plan is to run
32/36 or 38 Weber
272 Cam and gear
Header to a 2.25 Catback

Other questions:
a) Will the stock valve springs be fine with a 272?
b) Will i need a bigger fuel pump for the 32/36 or 38?
c) Do I need 2.25 or will 2 suffice

a) yes, although if you plan to really rev it out you might want to use the springs from a 1.8L 2g Prelude engine. They are a little stiffer and will rev higher without floating. If you keep to the stock redline though you should be fine.

b) I used the stock pump on my Prelude and it was more than sufficient. Check the fuel pressure though as Webers are fussy about that. I think 3PSI is correct.

c) I think most of the available headers all have a 2" collector, so 2" is probably sufficient. But make sure it's mandrel bent and not crush bent. If crush bent then go 2.25".

This seems to be a reasonable build for the engine to be used as a daily driver. Any comments on the planned setup?

The car is an 87 Accord LX.

Thanks

I think you will definitely like it. I would also seriously recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge. This will make tuning WAY, WAY, easier. It still wouldn't call it easy since it takes patience and lots of research if you are new to carb tuning. Read the Weber stickies here, over and over. Search the web for tuning info. Buy some books. The more you understand it, the more you will have fun with it.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

Thanks for the help so far guys. I've read one of those links in depth but the other is new, good reading also.

This is my first time tuning a carbed engine, thought it would be fun to try for a change.

[Bad Bunny]

I think you will definitely like it. I would also seriously recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge. This will make tuning WAY, WAY, easier. It still wouldn't call it easy since it takes patience and lots of research if you are new to carb tuning. Read the Weber stickies here, over and over. Search the web for tuning info. Buy some books. The more you understand it, the more you will have fun with it.

C|

An AFR gauge won't be hard to find but where would I look for a wideband O2 sensor. Will it simply be a case of removing the stock one and installing the new? I haven't had a chance to look to see if my car even has one, did the LX come with one? Please bare with me for all the dumb questions!

[2oodoor]

you are in for a lot of fun, there is nothing like the feeling of seeing the garbage can full of parts you can take off after the conversion. You will look at this car totally different after you have done that.

I think 2 inch is fine, this is a torquey motor and over doing the flow will cause you to lose low rpm torque advantange ( along with that since it is a daily driver you will find yourself having to get into it a little to get the torque started for regular type driving, if that makes sense) You will see an increase on the high rpm range but the again you are stuck to a limit with these, they simply are not designed for high rpm power like other Honda engines...although it doesnt take that to be faster.
Short version, if you open up the flow with 272 and big exhaust you gain power in the middle to the top, and lose power on the bottom.. to the point you have to give it more throttle to give it the torque it needs for basic momemtum. Not a real big concern, but just to let you know what to expect, some people dont even notice it.
You will not be able to granny drive it>>compare it to drivng a V8 car with a 5.31 or higher diff ratio...
fuel pump should be fine, although with the 38 you will need a fuel pressure regulator

[cygnus x-1]

you are in for a lot of fun, there is nothing like the feeling of seeing the garbage can full of parts you can take off after the conversion. You will look at this car totally different after you have done that.

Ain't that the truth! It's astounding how much emissions junk there is in there. And every one of those parts is one part that can fail and cause all kinds of issues. Having just two vacuum lines is a wonderful feeling.

fuel pump should be fine, although with the 38 you will need a fuel pressure regulator

I actually never measured the pressure with mine and it worked just fine without a regulator. Although I have a Prelude so it's possible the Accord runs a different pressure. I really don't know.

C|

[cygnus x-1]

An AFR gauge won't be hard to find but where would I look for a wideband O2 sensor. Will it simply be a case of removing the stock one and installing the new? I haven't had a chance to look to see if my car even has one, did the LX come with one? Please bare with me for all the dumb questions!

Yes, all these cars have O2 sensors. And for the most part you can just swap sensors. But there is some extra wiring with a wideband since it needs it's own power and you have to run a signal wire to the gauge. I used one of these:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...nsor-p-41.html

They aren't cheap but they're VERY helpful. If it's too much to swing at one time you can always add the wideband later. People were tuning carbs long before there were O2 sensors, it was just harder.

C|

[2oodoor]

Ain't that the truth! It's astounding how much emissions junk there is in there. And every one of those parts is one part that can fail and cause all kinds of issues. Having just two vacuum lines is a wonderful feeling.



I actually never measured the pressure with mine and it worked just fine without a regulator. Although I have a Prelude so it's possible the Accord runs a different pressure. I really don't know.

C|

I was just cleaning out stuff yesterday and ran across some of that stuff, I thought "hey I could sell it on 3geez-bay" but then it just felt so much better to dump it.!! It was not only just emissions, the confided carb controls arrrrgh

Well your's is the better experience to follow then since you had your hands all up in it I had no problems with it either without a regulator, but I figure Weber recommends not to go over the recommended psi although it can use cfm... flow not pressure in other words. Is it something about aeriating the fuel past the needle?

[Bad Bunny]

Looked at the O2 sensor, $200! What is the exact advantage to it in relation to carbs? Why does it make tuning them so much easier?

I am thiniking of researching more and then going with the 38. Otherwise I just know 6 months down the road I'm gonna be pulling the 32/36 out to put in a 38. (I know how addictive power is...)

[A20A1]

The o2 sensor is pretty much your final grade if you got your engine /carb tuned right or not.
It can show you where you're slacking off

Seriously though it will tell you if you need to jet higher or lower.

I'm not sure how valid O2 ratios are in the current ethanol gasoline mixed world but it should be close.

[2ndGenGuy]

I, personally, would still hold O2 values to be valid. A few of my friends have had their cars dyno-tuned, and the maximum horsepower / best running situation was found just a tad bit rich of the stoichiometric ideal.

[cygnus x-1]

Looked at the O2 sensor, $200! What is the exact advantage to it in relation to carbs? Why does it make tuning them so much easier?

I am thiniking of researching more and then going with the 38. Otherwise I just know 6 months down the road I'm gonna be pulling the 32/36 out to put in a 38. (I know how addictive power is...)

It's easier because you can tune directly to the air/fuel ratio instead having to tune by sound and feel, or on a dyno. It's more objective than how the car feels.

You could also just set it up like I had mine setup and it should be pretty close.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

So cygnus I will start by trying your setup:

1.45 Mains
0.55 Idle
2.10 Air Correction
0.60 Pump Jet
F50 Emulsion Tubes

This is a pretty good setup for warmer weather. For colder temps bump up the mains to 1.47 or 1.50.


Also you say your switching to FI. Do you want to sell the 38 setup?

[2ndGenGuy]

There's a 32/36 on Craigslist in Seattle with the A20A1 adapter for $100. All brand new in the box. You could at least flip it and sell that carb and get the 38 later. It would get you going for now... Check the Marketplace section.

[cygnus x-1]

If that 32/36 is really new it's a steal. Buy it.

I was wondering when someone would ask if my 38 is for sale.
For some reason I just can't let it go yet. I might put the carb on another car someday so I want to keep it around.

That jetting sounds about right. Jets are fairly cheap too so you can get some alternates to try out. And don't bother with e-tubes until you really get the hang of tuning. E-tubes are a whole different level of black magic.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

I'm trying to get a hold of that guy to buy the kit, with no luck so far. Hope it's still for sale!

[Bad Bunny]

Another question! Cam related now:

I'm looking at getting mine reground to a 272 at Colt Cams. What is the difference between a Standard and Tri Flow? Is it worth it?

[cygnus x-1]

Another question! Cam related now:

I'm looking at getting mine reground to a 272 at Colt Cams. What is the difference between a Standard and Tri Flow? Is it worth it?

The triflow cams open one of the intake valves earlier than the other. The idea is that this creates more swirling inside the cylinder and you get a better mixture, or something like that. I have a stage 1 triflow from Colt and it seems to be ok. I don't have a frame of reference because I did a complete rebuild with several mods at the same time, so I can't do a before/after comparison. I would imagine that the difference (triflow or standard) is fairly subtle, so I would just pick one and not lose any sleep over it.

C|

[A20A1]

I thought it was for velocity since one valve open would provide move vacuum for that valve and help pull in the air/fuel.