I was wondering if I could take a die grinder or something like a dremmel to the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and throttle body to open up alittle more flow or not?
I was wondering if I could take a die grinder or something like a dremmel to the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and throttle body to open up alittle more flow or not?
It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
"No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
I better just leave it to the pros lol
It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
"No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"
thanks pico , Ill search alittle more lol.
It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
"No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"
There's a lot to consider when porting.
You might want to focus more on porting the head though since it will be where the gains are... also larger valves. talk to rjudgey
then upgrade to a after market intake manifold from B16 or B18c5 and port match that
Also don't bother porting the stock exhaust manifold, though you can, just grab a header.
Also if you port the exhaust manifold make the ports on the manifold larger than the ports on the head to create a small step for some added resistance to back flow.
However it's really more for those with a cam that's prone to reversion. Remember not to smooth the transition by chamfering/beveling because that will aid in back flow.
Too large a step will lead to separated flow and drag on the exhaust gas.
- llia
if you don't want to go too far,take your head,paint the area where the bolts are with dykem blue, now slip the intake manifold gasket,or exaust manifold gasket over the studs, and mark around it with a sharp object such as a scratch awl. you'll see there is metal that is inside of the gasket area. this is what you want to carefully remove. this will help considerably as far as flow.you need to do this to the head side,and the manifold side. one mistake a lot of people make, they polish the intake manifold side, you don't want a mirror finish on the intake side. use some 180 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface when you are done,talking about inside the ports. a mirror finish on the intake side will cause fuel to come out of suspension and condense on the surface. now on the exaust side,you want a mirror finish,the reason for this,a mirror finish reflects heat back into the manifold and back into the exaust stream. more heat reflected,less heat absorbed by the manifold.
thanks guys!
It's not about whats on the outside. It's about whats on the inside. It's about your heart slowing down. It's about riding that line between good and idiot. Because the truth is, it anint a hobby.
"No Boost, No Bottle, Full Throttle"
yeah send the head to the machine shop so they can do a port and polish job on it. also the b16 or b18c intake manifold
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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