I don't know how to describe the tear other than it's on the motor side and if you are facing the car it's as if the tear is pulled torwards you and at a downward to the right like angle. Does that help?Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I don't know how to describe the tear other than it's on the motor side and if you are facing the car it's as if the tear is pulled torwards you and at a downward to the right like angle. Does that help?
By the way the alternator belt held enough friction to stall and kill the motor rather than just slip, but it would slip as well if I forced the engine rev higher. This could be my fault, but I had to get the car up the trailer to be towed some how. Sounds like I may be the cause of the problem, indirectly knowing so.
IT TOOK ME A GOOD HOUR TO FIGURE IT OUT. I HAD THE STEARING WHEEL OFF THE THE CLOUMN HALF WAY DOWN. AND LAYING ON MY BACK WITH MY HEAD UNDER THE DASH WHEN I LIFTED MY SELF OUT I TURNED THE WHEEL AND I COULD HERE IT RUBBING FROM UNDER ME. THATS WHEN I FOUND THE CAPARTMENT UNDER THE CARPET WHERE THE BLOT IS.
GOOD THEORY BUT NO..THE ALTERNATOR HAS NOTHIN TO DO WITH OR HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THE TIMING BELT. I THOUGHT YOU SAID HE WAS DOIN THE TIMING BELT TOO. HE SHOULD OF. TAKE ALL THAT PLASITC OFF AROUND THE BELT.THEN YOU CAN SEE IT . I LEFT ALL OF MINE OFF ON MY CAR.
IM GOIN TO WARN YOU THAT IF THAT BELT BREAKS YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET A NEW MOTOR OR DO A REBUILD.
Last edited by -$MOKIN-; 10-16-2007 at 09:03 AM.
I REMEMBER SEARCHING FOR THAT POS. AND OF COURSE THE MANUAL DIDN"T MENTION IT.
Last edited by LX-incredible; 10-16-2007 at 02:11 PM.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
it's in the hidden compartment they ship the gremlins in from the factory
My car is DONE!
Total: less than $350.00.
Installed: new timing belt w/ tensioner, brand new waterpump, alternator, & waterpump/alternator belt. And a generous tip for the great price cut over other shop quotes.
Blue is running very well. It' nice to finally have her back. And originally the timing belt was not on my list, but given the circumstance it was absolutely necessary. I should have had the belt inspected given that it had been about 85,000 miles since it's installation. Now that I know how easy it is to inspect the timing belt, I will certainly check it every once and awhile.
So here's a breakdown of what happened. I was driving down the road, and I come to a stop light and my buddy tells me the car isn't running. We were on a hill so I let the car roll back to the side of the road. I had my buddy get out while I turned the car over and he said the alternator isn't spinning. I had been told by battery exchange a few weeks ago that my alternator was on borrowed time. But I never contimplated it completely seizing up. I just figured that it would stop working altogether. As soon as I could, I went to UHAUL and rented a car trailer. And transported the car to Battery X-Change. I asked them if they would do the waterpump at the same time given that the two share a belt, and the age of the waterpump was unknown to me. One thing I didn't mention before is that, the waterpump actually did need to be replaced. Only after it was removed was it discovered that it was broken. Whoever installed the waterpump overtightened it (originally), and they broke the metal around the bolt hole area. The only reason it didn't leak is because the bolt held the shard in place. If only my intuition were as good about the timing belt. The shop installed the waterpump, alternator, and new waterpump/alternator belt. They thought it was all good sent me on my way telling me about the noise. I took the car to my friend house we inspected the timing belt and discovered a tear (pictured). So I carefully drove it back to the shop and they installed the timing belt in two days for one hell of a deal. It would have taken the shop less time to do the timing belt if my poor car wouldn't have broken a few of there impact sockets. So long story short my car is good as new for now.
Next on the Agenda: Clutch & Brakes.
If the lights all cut out on crank with a good battery usually this is caused by a bad engine ground strap or battery ground cable.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
they are suppposed to cut out,thats the way the switch is set up,at least if it's close to a stock switch. thats to divert all power but start and ignition. ignition 1 and accessory cut out,and ignition two stays on.
I haven't posted anything for a long time, but I had to revive this thread. Well another reason I didn't post is I got sick of the homepage saying 3Geez 4.0 coming soon. Soon would have been a few weeks - not months. That and the home page wasn't even showing most recent threads. Which is where I often found the most interesting things to read on this site.
Back to why this thread is being revived. My alternator went out again on 01/09/2008. Car is in shop, part was still under warranty - so I just pay labor. Is there a way to take the AC out and rig up a back up alternator. 'Cause if I'm going to be experiencing this problem on a regular basis I'd like to at least get 4 months out of a new alternator, lol. Ok, I'm done bit#!%ng. I've missed you guys.
I would just bite the bullet and pay for a Genuine Honda alternator, it will probably last longer. Either that or maybe there is some other unknown problem that is causing you to kill alternators, because my alternator is 8 years old!
A new Alt from honda will run you $175
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hond...ponent=E++0601
2004-2011?
i'm looking into this now as a matter of fact. i was thinking something like the alternator from a geo that is really small,just for emergencies. i need to look at the wiring diagram again. if you have an alternator that doesn't have the field connected it won't pull much power from the engine.
What would be ideal is an alternator that controls the ECU, Instrument Cluster, turn signals, door locks, and windows. The other alternator controls the stereo, headlights, AC/Heater Blower etc...
Last edited by blh1983; 01-11-2008 at 07:42 PM. Reason: added word "other"
well in an electrical failure with a backup alternator,you need to shed electrical load,turn off the stereo etc. you need a small alternator for an emergency situation to get you home. and you want it to power your lights for sure.
I just went through this, with the same symptoms as you. replace the alternator and maybe the battery, unless its fairly new, and you'll be fine. You'll also have eliminated two major sources of the issue, in the troubleshooting chain. I wouldnt risk getting stranded somewhere while you think this through. Better to simply replace that alternator now, rather than a tow costing you a good portion of the $185....? That would chap my ass, I know it. $185 isnt a bad price to swap your alt, they run $120 at oreillys with core, and although fairly easy to do yourself, you cant beat an install for $65. Get the alt replaced and then see what happens.
lol i would rather save the 65 bucks and swap it in in like 40 mins...i got good at it cuz my other 2 took a dump. 65 bucks is like a tank and a half of fuel....
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Ehh. Depends on mechanical ability and familiarity with the engine. Not everyone has done it twice. First time was a bitch. Id rather have a guarantee from a shop than go to all that trouble to save $65 bones, and have no guarantee. You replaced it twice cause you had no guaranteelol i would rather save the 65 bucks and swap it in in like 40 mins...i got good at it cuz my other 2 took a dump.
My two cents: this shop gives you a seriously low-ball price for a relatively easy alternator replacement. While there, they find a broken water pump that "somebody else" broke, but just happens not to have given any prior trouble. When you get the car back, you find that the timing belt is very nearly broken. This is another part with no prior history of trouble except that it's very close to where they were working. They somehow manage not to find the problem and give you back a car on the very brink of breaking catastrophically and very expensively. Now three months later, the original repair they made goes bad. I would avoid this shop, but that's just me.
first one went out because it was 18 years old and i was driving in rain....2nd one was just a defective unit.....even if the shop does it...and the alternator goes out....you would still need to spend time to bring in the car...and some shops may take up to a day to do it. so you lose one day of work or have to find another ride while the other one is getting fixed....im not saying your not a good mechanic...i would rather save the headache and do it myself...and you dont need to know an engine to do an alternator...just need to losen 3 bolts and disconnect the cables....i guess now i can do it in like 25 mins.Ehh. Depends on mechanical ability and familiarity with the engine. Not everyone has done it twice. First time was a bitch. Id rather have a guarantee from a shop than go to all that trouble to save $65 bones, and have no guarantee. You replaced it twice cause you had no guarantee
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
well, regardless of whether to have the shop do it or not, get it done, was my point. Having a new alternator installed removes a giant section of the troubleshooting tree for the original poster on this topic. a new batt wouldnt hurt either depending on the age of the old batt.
not on a carb car lol.
yeah stupid carb gets in the way...we had to pop off the axle last time we did it on a carb...but we had a lift and a shit load of air tools....still took like 30 mins.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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