How do I know if my car needs CV boots or just a new axel. It clicks when I turn hard lefts and some hard rights. How do I know what I need. Thanks.
-JTM
How do I know if my car needs CV boots or just a new axel. It clicks when I turn hard lefts and some hard rights. How do I know what I need. Thanks.
-JTM
Well its alot easier to just put the whole axel with cv joints in it. i got mine for like 65 bucks . your cv joints are bad if its clicking. just replace the axel. not to hard.
Can you show me a link to the part etc. that I need. The axel and all. Do the boots come with the Axel. Can the average man do this job or will I need to pay someone to do the job? Does anything need to be packed on?Originally Posted by -$MOKIN-
-JTM
New axles come with new CV joints and new CV boots. To replace this, you need a little bit of knowledge to do it. The hardest part is getting the pinch fork off the control arm, because the bolt gets rusted in over the years and you may need to cut it off and get a new bushing pressed in.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
New axles come with new CV joints, boots and bearing seals. But thats usually only the new ones, not the cardone remans or "new axles". Their "new" axles are just remans without the core charge. Mine lasted 2 weeks before making noise. Best bet is to get an EMPI or GKN. Drivewire has the best prices on them, sometimes less than remans. Usually it's only the outer joint that is bad. You can remove the outer joint if the LCA bolt is rusted on, it's basically held together with a snap ring. I have some brand new, US made, outer joints for $28 shipped or $50 for the two. They come with the axle nut, you would only need the boot kits which are usually between $6 and $10.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
If I brought a car somewhere, would they be able to tell me if i need a new boot, and if so which one. rather than a whole new axel? Also just for factual info. how long will i be able to drive the car w/o replacing these? what's the worse that can happen? do i have any time before getting this done?
If i decide to replace the axle will I need 2 axles for the car? Is there 1 axle in the front or two?
There are 2, passenger and driver. And if you have a clicking noise, than the joint itself is bad. So better off replacing both axles and forgetting about them.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Thanks Russiankid! So can the average joe do this? If i purchase both axles for about 180 total, do you think I can put them on myself with help from others? Is the job horribly hard to install? How long should it take for a mechanic to do it, so I can think about labor costs? Thanks guys!
-JTM
The first time I replaced my axles, it took me an afternoon to complete. I've done it so many times now that I can drive the car up, change the axle, and drive off in an hour or so.
If you have a decent set of tools, you'll be fine. Two tools that I suggest that you have are a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a big hammer.
speaking from experience, my first car had a bad CV joint. it lasted for about 6 months before giving out completely. the longer you go, the louder and more frequent your clicking sound will become until BANG!, then you are at the mercy of physics. unfortunately for me, mine went out on a hill, so i went from accelerating up hill to rolling backwards down the hill. you will still be able to steer, but your car wont drive anywhere. definitely worth fixing ASAP, not putting off until later.
i replaced both my axels with napa parts and so far i havent had any problems.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
taking it somewhere.. they will mark up the parts because they have time invested in the administrative process...Then you are looking at about another 180 for labor so your bill will be around 600 depending on the shop.
If you have any mechanical skills at all you can do it, most of us here that do this regularly can do both sides in under an hour provided no problems show up like stripped bolts or broken parts/tools.
You will need the right size socket for the axle nut too.
Cardone sux, like LXincredible says , I have the worst return ratio with reman parts by them, Carquest and AC delco.
I'll throw something is this thread.
The axle nut is staked, so try to pry it out. The axle nut is 1 1/4" socket. You will need a 1/2 breaker bar. The strut tower will need the lower bolt taken out. More than likely it is seized, so good luck getting it out. You will need a pry bar to pop the axle out too. It's also good to inspect the seal on the trans-axle casing. The job isn't hard to do, it'll just be a little time consuming if you don't have access to air tools.
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or 32mm. I used a 32mm socket(yes i have some big ass sockets)
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 09-07-2007 at 08:42 PM.
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