brake problem

[Kemikals]

Well... right now when I have the car off the brakes are fine, which means all the brake hydraulic system is working correctly. Turn the car on brakes turn into limp noodle. Also, when i press the brakes the engine rev's a bit which led me to believe it was a vaccum leak. I checked the vaccume line and looks fine. I also had just 5 minutes earlier changed all brake pads, rear wheel cylinders, and bled them thoroughly. When I press and depress the brake there is a hissing noise coming from the brake booster. So i'm hoping it's a seal in the master cylinder... and not that damn brake booster any other ideas that could cause this? please have some secret vaccume line so i don't have to replace that brake booster lol.

[russiankid]

I would try bleeding it again, and RPM's rising is normal. The hissing sound, i get that too, and many new cars have it as well. So i assume that is normal. I think you just need to bleed the system again. And make sure that the pads are seated correctly and all.

[Kemikals]

They're bled fine, the pedal would still be spongy while the car is off if they weren't i believe anyway... lol i might try it tomorrow again. can't hurt.

[russiankid]

They're bled fine, the pedal would still be spongy while the car is off if they weren't i believe anyway... lol i might try it tomorrow again. can't hurt.

After a few pumps with the car off my pedal becomes hard.

[Kemikals]

good,then your brakes are working the problem is when i start my car my brakes go limp lol

[russiankid]

good,then your brakes are working the problem is when i start my car my brakes go limp lol

Describe this limp. Does the pedal have an resistance?

[Kemikals]

yea it has a little, took it for a test drive at 40 and slamming on the brakes just slows it down like you were normally trying to stop but a little weaker

[russiankid]

yea it has a little, took it for a test drive at 40 and slamming on the brakes just slows it down like you were normally trying to stop but a little weaker

I would bleed it again. Check to make sure there aren't any leaks anywhere.

[Kemikals]

the thing is you wouldn't have hard brakes when the car was off, when the car is off you're working off just the hydraulic system, when you turn the car on you get the brake booster working in that effect which is why I think it's bad. If the brakes had air in them they would be spongy like they were before i bled them.

[labeledsk8r]

well did the breaks work fine before you changed and bled them? if so then its highly unlikely that the brake booster went out during this, its easyer to check them by bleeding them again the it is to jump to conclusions and start replaceing expensive parts when it could be something you misssed wich happens to everyone,id say bleed them again and if the problem is still there then start looking further into the brake system, also check for leaks on your brake hoses when you do this coulda got pinched and started a leak

[Legend_master]

the thing is you wouldn't have hard brakes when the car was off, when the car is off you're working off just the hydraulic system, when you turn the car on you get the brake booster working in that effect which is why I think it's bad. If the brakes had air in them they would be spongy like they were before i bled them.

russiankid is right, when the car is off you would have hard brakes once you built the pressure up (bubbles in the brake system dont keep the brake peddle from getting hard when the cars off). When the car is on the bubbles are moving though the brake system and causing the sponginess. Bleed the brakes on all four corners.

[Kemikals]

No they were not working correctly before i bled them. I bought the car 2 weekends ago and i put off doing the brakes because i wasn't driving it yet, figured i would just bleed them. well i bled them, saw the back right wheel cylinder was leaking replaced the 2 back ones, started over and re bled them all, changed brake pads all the way around. even with all of that, the brakes should have gotten at least a little better during this, not stay the same.

[Kemikals]

alright rebled the brakes, now there is no doubt that there is all new brake fluid throughout the system and no air. Nothing changed. I'm still seroiusly thinking it's the brake booster.

[russiankid]

alright rebled the brakes, now there is no doubt that there is all new brake fluid throughout the system and no air. Nothing changed. I'm still seroiusly thinking it's the brake booster.

Are you sure it isn't the MC?

[LX-incredible]

Make sure that the rear brakes are adjusted properly. Did you clean out and lube the auto adjuster? 3 clicks on the e-brake should hold the car.

[russiankid]

Make sure that the rear brakes are adjusted properly. Did you clean out and lube the auto adjuster? 3 clicks on the e-brake should hold the car.

I thought it was 5, or is that for disc brakes?

[LX-incredible]

Not sure exactly, the manual says that they should be fully applied at 7-11 clicks. I adjusted mine so they just barely rub. I remember it being around 3 to actually hold the car at a slight downgrade. I didn't get to clean the auto adjuster last time , so they need to be adjusted again.

[russiankid]

Mine holds on 5 clicks on the driveway.

[LX-incredible]

Maybe I'm wrong, that's what I remember though.

[russiankid]

Maybe I'm wrong, that's what I remember though.

I have rear disc brakes, so maybe there is a difference.

[2ndGenGuy]

What's your method for bleeding? If you don't do it right, you'll never get the air out.

[Oldblueaccord]

Make sure that the rear brakes are adjusted properly. Did you clean out and lube the auto adjuster? 3 clicks on the e-brake should hold the car.

Adjust the rears up like said, all the way so you can just barely slip the drum on with some trouble. The rears are your pedal height, firmness.

As far a the brake booster mine hisses when I step on the pedal and the rpms rise some just a little.


wp

[bubba g]

2ndgenguy is right. If you Don't bleed per manual you wont get it. Go from Drivers front , to pass. rear, to pass front, to driver rear. If I knew how to get my adobe file on here i would post it.

[russiankid]

2ndgenguy is right. If you Don't bleed per manual you wont get it. Go from Drivers front , to pass. rear, to pass front, to driver rear. If I knew how to get my adobe file on here i would post it.

Well from reading articles, they say to bleed the brakes furthest away from the MC, so that would be rear left, then rear right, front right and then front left.

[2ndGenGuy]

Well from reading articles, they say to bleed the brakes furthest away from the MC, so that would be rear left, then rear right, front right and then front left.

Yes. And you can't bleed it with one person if you don't have speed bleeders. You have to have someone to have the valve open only when the pedal is moving downward. I've heard of people too many times just opening the bleeder valve sticking a tube down in a cup and pumping away at the brake pedal. That will not work and typically results in hours of painful bleeding and frustration.