getting ready to replace these bad boys with their prothane brothers....shop manual = no help... anybody got a clue how to replace these suckers???
getting ready to replace these bad boys with their prothane brothers....shop manual = no help... anybody got a clue how to replace these suckers???
done this to and rx-7 b4 kinda a pita but baicscley take apart have penatrating oil in a spray can ready and the get some punchs un bolt dowse the bushing in penatrating oil and try to punch it out. for the new ones get some grese put it around the outside eges and the use a vice to push them in reinstal the parts don't forget to torque down bolts to spec and there you go
Remove the nut on the front end of the strut rod, break loose the back-up nut and then remove the two bolts on the control arm. Installation is reverse of removal. Tighten the back nuts against each other, then 32 ft/lbs for the end nut. You will likely need to check the alignment afterwards, as the position of the nuts determines how far forward the wheel sits...
Last edited by LX-incredible; 09-06-2007 at 10:56 AM.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.Originally Posted by stat1K
i didnt think it would be too difficult. the only thing that really threw me off is the metal frame piece (crossmember? got no clue) that it goes in to.
You can leave the crossmember in place. Try to center the wheel in the well before tightening the nuts. I eyeballed it, and had them check alignment afterwards. It wound up not needing an adjustment, but a good idea to check. Torque the two bolts the hold the radius rod to the control arm to 40 ft/lbs.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
This might help:
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hond...omponent=B++29
C|
They really only effect caster. The bolts that go into the lower control arm are at and akward angle it may take some extensions to get at them.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
ya ive done a control arm before. Thanks guys!
so i feel really silly lol...looked in my haynes manual today and its in there....very detailed directions. So if anyone has questions consult the haynes manual...which actually helped for once.
The Haynes manual is great for that straight forward stuff like that... and the wiring diagrams, but they can keep the rest. They say you need to pull the axle to get to the alt on LX-i models!
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
you really do...if your replacing it. I had to when i replaced mine, my shop did too the last time...well the charged me for it anyway lol.
No, you don't. That's what pisses me off with chiltons and haynes. They either have you remove more parts than necessary, leave out parts that need to be removed, or not even have the part listed. I only use them for torque specs and wiring diagrams now.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
well even the torque specs are a little off. Do you have a shop manual? if not id suggest you download one haha. Even the shop manual said to pull the axle...huh howd u do it then?
I have one. Remove the air cleaner box and it comes out through the top.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
I'm just going to try and tighten mine down for now see if that helps. as for chiltons it says 30ftlb on the trans fill hole i cant possibly see that as necessary.
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
What? The nut on the front of the radius arm? If it's loose, chances are the bushings are gone and tightening it won't help...
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
ya i was lost on what he was talking about anyway...
What are the part numbers for those bushings?
I can't read the signature rules so MrBen deleted my signature.
Prothane PN: 8-1201-BL
the BL just means black, they may come in red too, but really what difference does it make you cant see them anyway. When they get to you they will probably say Civic/CRX strut rod bushing, same difference
What has help me when putting new bushings on the strut rod, was to either count or mark the threads with a paint marker on the back side. Where the rod goes through the frame. It'll keep the caster pretty much where it was at. If you get one side out of wack, more than likely your car will pull to one side.
.
it shows them doing that in the haynes manual actually.
dude at least 1hp for every red part on your car (+5 for red Rs)
I ordered the reds, so all my bushings will be red.
I can't read the signature rules so MrBen deleted my signature.
haha but like i said, you wont be able to see these ones. I must say though, i sand blasted my LCA's and painted them black, they look bad-ass with my red bushings in them.
where did you guys buy the bushings....my front end needs some bushings after its been lowered so its more harsh on the suspension.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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