Pics of Head development work

[rjudgey]

Right guys i know how you love your pics here's some eye candy for you, halfway stage of a full blown N/A racing head.



Here you have the inlet ports with the injector ports welded up and remachined nice no flow disturbance going to be happening here!!



Closer look at the welding work done, this port is stock apart from the welding, it is yet to be shaped, flowed or worked on yet that's in head episode 2 attack of the sanding drums!! Due out soon!! (hopefully when i get this moving business out the way!)



Surface of the head still needs skimming thats a job do be done when the chambers have been finished to remove any marks that may accidently happen when machining the chambers.



Closeup of the chamber these have just had valve seats re-cut for the larger valves so still need to be worked on polished, roof and walls need to be blended in and opened up as much as possible



Pic of the chamber with the new large valves in as you can see it's all getting bit cramped in there, going to be working out just how close they get to hitting each other as i'll be wanting to start speccing up cam profiles soon hopefully 285-290 degree cams with 11mm lift will be okay but i'll be checking first.



Pics of the inlet valve on the left this is half finished awaiting a final cut to reduce the seat width to 1mm and also my special finish i apply to them on my lathe, the one on the right is the exhaust valve this one is finished with 1mm seat and left highly polished for max flow.

[2oodoor]

I want one!

keep up the good work

[Vanilla Sky]

VERY nice. I'm glad you've posted pics of your work in progress. How much power do you see this as being good for?

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh god! A20 pr0n!!!

[rjudgey]

stop perving again 2nd gen guy you've allready seen them at PP.com you headophile ;0)

Vanilla the head should be good for achieving between 220-230bhp maybe a little more it's all going to be down to the cam profilesand what the final CR ratio i can aqueeze out will be won't know that till i get the pistons done and decide just howmuch i want to lop off the head, having some cam work done by JG engine dynamics on that front so quite excited to see what it comes up like, not looking for anything too agressive as i think the valves may end up getting just a little too close to each other or the pistons. One thing is for sure it's going to need one heck of a custom job on the header and 2 1/4 inch mandrel bent system for sure to get the exhaust gas out quick enough. Be interesting to see how it all works out with the long inlet runners being a long stroke engine should be quite good expecting lots of torque. I love experimenting if it doesn't work out i'll go back to the ET1 design which i still prefer really but then experiment with runner length on that head and also maybe invest in some bike carbs at some point.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man, I am a headophile! I've got my EK1 head down at the shop right now getting rebuilt, also have an EL head at home that is shiny and new. Maybe it's time for some therapy. My A20 head is next...

Have you put these motors on a dyno? I'm mega-curious to see a dynochart for them, just to see where they generate peak power, see the torque curve, etc. I love charts... Might take the ES2 down for another dyno run just to see what bolt-ons do for a stock motor.

[MessyHonda]

like i said over at PP....i want one....what springs and retainers are you using? how high of an RPM are you going to go 8k?

[snoopyloopy]

sweet! i need one of those. oh shoot, i should just buy openloop coupe and have something similar. hmm...

[2drSE-i]

jesus man that looks awesome. Your using a18 valve springs right? my favorite part is the injector ports....wow is all i have to say.

[rjudgey]

Yeah the injector ports worked out real nice, was going to get the gap in front of the guides welded up as well but decided not too performance versus cost was not enough especially as it's N/A air gets sucked rather than pushed through with a turbo if it was for forced induction it would have been more worth it. trouble is if i had it welded the guides would have needed to have some out, new hole drilled and new guides fitted just toomuch as i'd probably would have had custom bronze ones made too.

This will do to start with been reading up on some research onto Rover K series engines in Caterhams (lotus 7) and lotus elise's some guy had got nearly 250bhp out of a 1700cc with 32mm inlet valves considering they have similar stroke and bore sizes/ratio to our engines it's given me more hope to be able to easily achieve 250bhp with this following engine, only trouble is it's going to need one mother of custom job on the header, and also some tip top design on the cam profile, and definately going to need some aftermarket rods and forged pistons.

I think if i can get 11:1 or 11.5:1 CR ratio, custom header, better rods, forged pistons, my usual tip top headwork hoefully will hit my target or get damn close considering was knocking out nearly 200bhp with stock block and just a well moddified stock valve size ET1 head with webers and a fast road camshaft, and stock moddified cast exhaust header and 2.25" crush bent exhaust system 250bhp should be well attainable really. But when your aiming for more and more bhp it just gets' harder and harder and not to mention more expensive to get those last 10-15 pony's. I think getting 220-230 won't be that hard getting 240-250 or more is going to cost a fortune and be a right sod to get i'm imagining it's going to come down to camshaft specs really more than anything else. Get that wrong and it's going to run like a dog well a greyhound at least get it right will run like a cheetah!!

Anyways it's all going to be fun experimenting with this can't wait to start working on the head hopefully will have a bit of time sunday so may start work on it then. Looking at around 60 hours labour going to go into this head so maybe a few months before it's totally finished then it's time to start on the block!!!

[rjudgey]

2nd gen guy, i've got dyno graphs on some of the earlier ones, unfortunately the ET1 blew up before i got it on the rolling road again it was about 185bhp at the flywheel but i'd managed to tweek it a little and had fitted another cam was easily around just under 200bhp it ran 1/4 mile in 14.5s with street tyres and a oil soaked clutch that acted as traction control ;0)

I also have a dyno of a A18 head i was doing some research on with big inlet valves that produced 176bhp trouble is the dyno i use is crap doesn't give you rpm's or anything just mph pn the bottom and KW down the left side i can't undestand it? Next time going to try and find a better Rolling road i have a mate who's got one so might try his out had the Beemer done on that one but it's got a ride height issues with FWD cars so not sure if mine will fit onto it.

Prefer to tune my engines on teh drag strip i think it's a more accurate way of doing it as air is being pushed into the engine bay from the car moving, that and the engine isn't running hot from sitting in same place i know they have those big fans but not the same as driving 70-100mph down a road.

[Vanilla Sky]

My goal is a very streetable 180 BHP with weber carbs. I have DCOE 40's now, and I know they won't get me what I need. I'll need some 45's to get what I'm looking for, and I accept that. The 40's will get me started.

60 hours is pretty quick to get a head worked up that nicely. I've seen shops claim to take that long to do a basic cleanup.

I personally see 250 BHP as attainable, albeit with a very cold-natured, ill-behaved engine.

[2ndGenGuy]

2nd gen guy, i've got dyno graphs on some of the earlier ones, unfortunately the ET1 blew up before i got it on the rolling road again it was about 185bhp at the flywheel but i'd managed to tweek it a little and had fitted another cam was easily around just under 200bhp it ran 1/4 mile in 14.5s with street tyres and a oil soaked clutch that acted as traction control ;0)

I also have a dyno of a A18 head i was doing some research on with big inlet valves that produced 176bhp trouble is the dyno i use is crap doesn't give you rpm's or anything just mph pn the bottom and KW down the left side i can't undestand it? Next time going to try and find a better Rolling road i have a mate who's got one so might try his out had the Beemer done on that one but it's got a ride height issues with FWD cars so not sure if mine will fit onto it.

Prefer to tune my engines on teh drag strip i think it's a more accurate way of doing it as air is being pushed into the engine bay from the car moving, that and the engine isn't running hot from sitting in same place i know they have those big fans but not the same as driving 70-100mph down a road.

I agree. It seems a good tune can be started on a dyno, to get good air fuel ratios, and pull some good peak numbers. But to really get it fine tuned, you gotta actually drive the car. The dyno won't tell you what it's like under all conditions. Humidity, temperature and other atmospheric conditions can cause large changes in the results of your dyno graph, especially if the dynamometer is inside a climate-controlled shop. I don't understand those MPH dyno charts either. I think they're kinda worthless except to get a peak HP number. Doesn't tell you anything about what your engine is doing through the RPM range... Sometimes the computer just can't replace the butt dyno.

[AccordEpicenter]

rich you do awesome work man

[guaynabo89]

Looking good.

Loving the valves. Where did you get them and what kinda car were they for? Did you change the exhaust valve guides at all to run those or anythign of the sort? Do you machine the stem some and just flatten the head? Do you ever use them with boost? Being that the heads are so slim have you ever had any problems with them as far as durability, reliability?

How about some stock valve comparison pics to the ones you machined?

[rjudgey]

Thanks just love tinkering really hope to start on head tomorrow.

I'll try take some pics of the valves side by side each other. The exhaust valve is custom made, same stem length and width just bigger head 37.25mm to be exact the inlet valves are old exhaust valves remachine to 32mm have had 33mm for some reason the engineer felt 32mm would be safer, I still thin 33mm would have been fine but whats done is done, he also took a shed load of metal out the ports and throats without my permission which will cause me problems with the work i wanted to do but i won't find out howmuch if at all untill i start porting and flowing the ports. Although i've been using this guy for a while he's starting to get sloppy and expensive so i think i'll have to find someone else to do the work means having to post stuff but finding good machinist's is starting to become a real problem, even seriously considering sending some stuff to JG engine dynamics to do.

Oh well i'm sure it'll be good just need to get a block together that won't grenade when i start hitting 8-8.5k rpm.

Reliability wise not had any issues with N/A application they do crack easily if you over advance the ignition and have detonation but thats the same with any ally head. Only weak spot is cam bearings when using stiff springs and high lift.duration cams, you just need to polish them up every 15-20k miles, to be honest thats probably due to not enough oil pressure from stock oil pump so will invest in toga HV pump next time and see how that goes.

[MessyHonda]

with high compression you need to run a high octane/ron gas so you would detonate. but still this project looks nice....i cant wait till i start building my engine and trans...my goal is only 160hp.

[rjudgey]

Fuel isn't a problem in U.K. we only have high octane stuff here also lot of road cars are running CR ratio's that high anyways so think it will be pretty safe if not i'll have to machine some more out the chambers!!

If you have the right induction and exhaust setup 160bhp with a programeable ecu is easily attainable. My stock 1.8l block with a mildly worked head and twin webers nearly kicked that much out. Stock 2.0l block with slightly more moddified head put down 170bhp, stock ET1 with 2.0l internals and well moddified head put down nearly 200bhp with the same cast manifold and crappy bent stainless exhaust fitted still.

If you did a big valve conversion some head work, camshaft, B18 manifold and big TB something like 64mm-68mm, bigger injectors, aftermarket ECU and crank fired ignition, header with 2.25" main pipe and mandrel bent 2.25" system you should be getting around 170-180bhp easily.

[carotman]

Awesome work!

This reminds me I have to get a different exhaust for my car the stock 1.6 inch isn't up to the task.

[bobafett]

Seriously awesome!
Makes me glad that I am building mine!

Keep it up we love this shit...

[rjudgey]

Yeah just a little restrictive going to 2" mandrel bent will give you a huge boost 2.25" bit more but only if you have some seriou mods going on.

I remember when i had my first custom exhaust fitted, stock cast 4-2 manifold ported, polished an matched to custom downpipe and the head ports, 2.25" but crush bent bends. When i took it for a test drive nearly wet my pants was so much faster took me a week to get use to it then i wanted more

[rjudgey]

For those who wanted more on the valves some more pics.

[LX-incredible]

So the stockers are on the ends and the new ones in the center? Looks quite a bit larger.

[2drSE-i]

2mm larger on both valves yea? looks awesome man.

[2ndGenGuy]

So when you had those exhaust valves made, did you just tell the machine shop to make them? Or did they start with something else? Or did you go to a custom shop that specializes in that stuff? Did you just take the old valve in and say "Hey make me this valve, but 2mm bigger?" About how much was that?