i've decided as well to build a custom drag bar w/ engine tq mount to replace the front cross member in my car, this will not only allow more space for the h22. it will be stronger and allow me to pretty much run any exhaust i wish, and eliminate whats left for wheel hop.
material base will be 2"x2" 3mm thick boxed steel. should be beefy enough.
also going to employ adjustable uca's to fix my camber issue. its really noticeable with 17" rims... weird.
Last edited by Vector; 09-24-2007 at 11:13 AM.
so yesterday was dropping off a bunch of old crap at an auto recycler and noticed he had a 4g accord lx and a 2g teg rs, i went and asked the guy what he would want if i could take a bunch of stuff off the 4g and the spindles off the 2g... he siad he wouldnt want much, so i told him i had a parts car that needed to be gone and he siad we could take what ever we wanted off the cars in trade, we get a bunch of free stuff and clean driveways.
pretty sweet, i've effectively completed my h22 swap thanks to him..
alt
starter
ps pump
wiring and ecu(needs to be chipped for vtec, or get a vtec controller?)
f22 diz(i have h22 case)
5spd tranny
cv's and int shaft
clutch and flywheel
cable shifter
peddle box
hydro cylinders
break booster and mastercylinder
front spindles(so i can use beefy axle, i have dpb rims) once i can find 4g rear disks, i will convert all around if possible.
i'm not worried about the gearing of the f22 trans vs h22, i kinda like to have the longer gears... will come in handy for autox... less shifting needed.
the 2g teg spindles are needed for oldTimer2gS accord for the b18 swap so we can use bseries axles.. or easily make hybrids since they are bigger spline than the 84's spindle.
i will get pics of the parts once i get them back to the garage.
congrats.
i too am considering a custom suspension piece to replace my crossmember so i have room for a huge downpipe. When you start planning this I definitely want to keep in the loop!
The problem with longer gears is that the powerband of the H22A isn't meant for it. Each time you shift, you come below the VTEC point and you lose precious seconds there.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Kan You make a HowTo thread about it later? I was thinking the same thing but I dont have a clue how to build it...Originally Posted by Vector
Thx...
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
wow... that long eh... nothing i cant fix by bumping the revs up so the next gear falls in that band... gonna be rebuilding it anyway
i will probably get someone to help me with it... i can take the pictures if someone else wants to write it haha.
should be to hard to make... just gota weld some stuff and drill holes... some off the shelf parts from a hardware store like place...
i will keep you guys updated... after workish i have to go pick up the rest of the parts from the yard, 4g wiring and shifter cables, then i'm starting on oldTimer2gS b18 2g accord.... once i'm finished that, then comes the h22 project. the b18 has to be done for oct 7th, so this isn't gonna take forever(i hope).
btw 4g accord doner is a 91, so i guess i'm gonna be still in need of a ecu i guess.
Last edited by Vector; 09-26-2007 at 12:59 PM.
That is awesome another 3gee with a H motor in it. It was alot of work to put it in good luck. I got my in and cannot wai to race it.
gota be shoehorned? ... hope its not as bad as trying to fit the b18 into the 2g... haha man... that was some rough work and some....
will get pics of that once its in.. hopin to get that all siad and done tomorow so i can start on my car... would like to get that done asap since its still insured...
edit ps. you rebuilt the front end of your car actually didnt you.... lol
Last edited by Vector; 09-28-2007 at 10:02 PM.
Yeah i think Johnny O has a tube frame front end.
Vector i have a smaller crank pulley for the h22, it will proably help with getting it in. It is aluminum if you are interested in it. The stock one is huge
I just got my LX-i hatch back (sold it last year, recovered it last week)
I have an H22 in my 4th gen, and most of another H22 in the basement (just need internals, basically)
I'm going to build the one that's in pieces for the 4th gen, and I'm thinking I might attempt to put the old one into the hatch. I've never done anything like that before, so it'll be interesting... I'd definitely love to see your progress, since I'm sure you'll be done before I even start!
what ya lookin to get for it, i'm planning on running just the alt, maybe power steering if i can get the lines redone for the rack.
yea i hope to get the axles shortened for the 2g this week so i can finish the mounts for that.
its probably gonna be atleast 1-2 weeks before i start my car...
another thing thats going to prove interesting is the homemade hydro-cable converter.
edit: also got my hands on a chipped ecu over the weekend to... dont know the management yet.. once i get it, i will let yas know.
Last edited by Vector; 10-01-2007 at 08:20 AM.
I have to check and see what is on the pulley as for belts.
The pulley has only alt. on it.
Thats the OE header for the h22.
Does the tranny code start with MB or MA?
If it does, its an H trans, if it doesnt, its not.
If i remember right.
MA is non-lsd
MB is lsd.
Not sure what the USMD ATTS Prelude tranny code is however.
I would highly suggest trying this setup first:
OE Teg axles with a 90-93 accord half shaft, if it works sweet!
If that doesnt work, pickup a prelude halfshaft for the h22 and call hasport, get axles for an h22 in a civic (96-00) and you should be good to go.
When choosing the mounting location for your motor, try to get the axle openings in the trans to line up with the hub as close as possible, i shred CV's non stop in my H swapped civic because the motor sits back so far.
Ha-sport makes a kit for the trans so you do not have to convert to hydro trans, you can still use the cable.
I Concur ... You will most likely need the LS shafts with the Accord Outer (unless you convert), and H22 Inners
Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-07-2007 at 09:25 PM.
well, i'm going to run f22/ls axle hybrids. gonna stick with the f22 trans for now.
location.... well i gota cut my b series mount brackets and make new ones for the h22... before i can even think of a location. by the looks of the f22 trans to the b series trans they are about the same width so this swap should be relatively easy. i spend hours leveling the b series engine, i will do the same for the h22, last thing i want to have to do is to be swapping axles often. the hydro/cable conversion from hasport is an option, i'm not going to say i'm cheap. but there is no reason i couldn't do this whole project without having to by stuff like that.
Do you have a plan to overcome the rear crossmember problem yet, Vector? I look at Johnny O's car, and it's impressive... but that's way too much for me!I'm preparing to pull my A20A (well... BT) out still, so I'm way behind. I'm keeping an eye on your project, though! Stalling a bit, to see if I can follow your lead!
If not, boosted A20A here we come. (but that's way off topic, so I'll stop there!)
its not so much leveling its aligning (front to rear) with the spindles.
As for the leveling itself, remember, the H leans back HARD compared to a B/D/A series engine.
Mine is at probably at least a 15* angle (but the valve cover is level)
wow... thats quite abit... well as long as i can get the tranny as inline as possible with the car lowered as it will always be that way... i did the same thing with the b series.. they were flat inline with the hubs when it was done and driving....
is it bad for the engine to sit not like it does in the lude and drive like that?... i'm thinkin not to a certain point.
i assume engine will be a tight fit in between the frame rails?.. i haven't tried mine yet.. probably this weekend
yes, its going to be a TIGHT fit and you might even have to hammer in the frame rails a little. My civic is wider than my accord (at the frame rails), and the rails of a civic have to be hammered on.
No, its not good to place the motor in another way. Honda designed it to work that way because its best for the setup (internally), and you need to try to keep that as close as possible.
It probably isnt quite 15* but ill get a picture, you can very clearly see it leans back quite a bit.
thanks halxi, would love to see how it sits.
i just finished a crx/b17 swap with a friend, now i come to a 90 gs with a beautiful body that needs an engine, my b18 is going in that for my mom to drive. then i start the h22, i have pretty much everything except the ecu still.. waitin for it to get chipped and shipped.
i have a crazy idea for the h22, since i cant reuse my itbs cuz they will most likely be to small for the engine,(what ever size of engine the cbr 954 comes with). i decided to start fabbing my own itbs... using a20 throttle bodies... how you think that would sound when its running wot
once the gs is done... its full time on the accord.. want to have it done for the end of the months super slush auto-cross in vancouver.
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