worst carb fear confirmed

[rocky2]

Saturday,I failed the Illinois Emissions Test. I hate them bigtime. I know the test is basicly fuel related moreso then plugs/cap.


Test results standard .80 HC 15.CO

My readings 1.86 HC 55.1 CO

I've leaned fuel mixture screw that had a plug on it that I chiseled off. I screwed it into (clockwise) with engine idling and RPM's dropped that was a good sign btw.

Bad news: My choke don't work anymore .....stuck open
Good news: set curb idle without adjusting it with the throttle linkage.

Pic request: you guys are dam good with pics btw. Of where the choke linkage is at closed butterfly...

Also Ill keep all posted on Emissions test

Any input or ideas that may help?

3g will start with choke open just takes awhile to warm up,winters on the way in Chicago.

What pulls the choke closed Vacum? or electrical sprng?

[doug]

not really sure if any of the pictures here,
http://87accord.com/carbpage.html
are of any help. But I've got a spare carb that is in good shape
sitting around and if you let me know exactly what you want a picture of, I'd be happy to see if I can get one online that
helps.

[shepherd79]

man, where you running rich?
man, i probably will never pass emission with my set up, oh wait i don't have to, yeah. WV rock.

[rocky2]

Doug,

I would like a view looking down on the very top of carb. Centered mainly on the choke butterfly and the linkage that opens and closes it. It just appears to me that it rubs a rod that makes it open and close. See if you can determine what pulls the butterfly in a closed postion? I wonder if a spring in the electrical housing pulls it shut then vacum opens it as the wax heater element gets hot. I just want to pass the emmision test then get the choke fixed,it was working so well too.thanks

[doug]

http://87accord.com/carbshots.html

I think the choke is closed by the spring and then is opened by vacuum. The spring housing cover is the 3 rivets you'll have to drill out, if you want to check spring movement. If you want additional pictures, tell me where to point the camera. My macro is good to about 6 inches close.

[rocky2]

Take a picture of a carb staight down on very top like as if carb was on the car with your face looking down the barrels. I just want a good veiw of a closed choke and were the linkage is in realation to butterfly. Thanks Doug.

[doug]

OK, i've added a couple to the page. What ya think?

[A20A1]

I took some pics also... but they are with the choke remove as well as the float bowl vent... hmm.

34 pics all neat stuff coming soon to my website since my image hoster is gonna kick me off from too many deep-linking images

[rocky2]

Doug,A20A1

Great pics,
My choke linkage was bent,found this out by comparing pics to my carb.......must have put my air cleaner on wrong to do this at some point.

Have been working on 3-g . Getting it ready for #2 emission test. Things I've done to prepare.
1. retard timing
2. cardboard in front of radiator
3. took off secondary linkage
4. changed oil
5. changed coil....plugs were black
6. pray

Keep you posted on results

[A20A1]

no don't retard timming... you want the proper timing or advance it a little. and use 87-89 octane

[rocky2]

Anyone know what that electrical devise does in the back of carb? It must lean or enrichen mixture I'm thinken, getting a signal from 02 senser.

[doug]

rocky2,
I think it just cuts off the idle jet to reduce run-on after you turn the motor off.

[doug]

oh yeah, cardboard in front of the radiator is kinda risky, ain't it?

[DanG86LX]

Originally posted by rocky2
... It must lean or enrichen mixture I'm thinken, getting a signal from 02 senser.

No, it does NOT do that. Is just an anti dieseling device as Doug said.
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=533

[POS carb]

lean out your motor will reduce CO but your HC will go up. Make sure your cooling system is up to par, run your engine hard to heat the cat before the test. You can pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in the tank to lower your NOx emmissions. Inflate the tires all the way if they put it on the dyno-shit. Retard the timing also to reduce hc's (set it at or 1* less than factory spec)

The choke is spring return but the design of the fast idle system jams it, that why you have to tap the gas to get it to snap shut.

[rocky2]

If anybodys got a useless Haynes manuel look at page 6-8 .I think it may be a anti-afterburn/mixture solenoid valve.
But today I was wrenching on my 3-g and came across a problem.....wrong dam distributer......Yeah....its a 1986 engine in a 1988 3-g. It has a distributer cap with no square portion as a 1988 does,and the chip is on outside. Maybe this is why I failed.
The 1988 is on and for the 1st time since I've had it ....it pings.....This maybe a good sign.


And the cardboard covers entire radiator without overheating I think because all of the a/c stuff is ripped off allowing it to supercool.
Anybody no how to construct a pyrometer to check my converter .
I got to the new year to pass this thing

[A20A1]

pinging is bad!. check your timing... also the chip on the outside is the igniter... noramlly its on the outside of TEC distributors. and hitatchi distributors have them on the inside

[DanG86LX]

It might be my imagination or POScarb had a quite useful post here last night for rocky2. The post just vanished! How is that possible?

Anyway, rocky2, i wonder if u removed ur Secondary Air Injection system (suction crap) from ur engine cause that might work together with Cat to reduce those emissions..
U may check this: http://www.smogsite.com/ectheory.html

[POS carb]

it's in the tech section I think, go read it!

[rocky2]

If anyones following my post on emissions bullshit, I just want to report that I'm getting "GREAT MPG" now that I did the distribter changeout. "It may even be a good modification for 1986-87 3-gs to put on a 1988 distribter to gain a few hps and mpgs. I pushed in the trip odometer at my last fillup and I'm already at 170 miles just above 1/2 tank.
I went to two places to see if someone could scan the temps on my cat and was denied. Need someone with a infered laser digatil pyrometer.
I'm in no hurry, I figure if my mpgs went up and plugs look white I'm getting close.
I want to at least scan the temps to find out if the cat is working before I put one on before the test. I should be hotter on outlit side then inlet to determine if cat is bad.

[A20A1]

just don't run your car too lean for too long.

[POS carb]

why would an 88 distrib. be better than an 87??

[rocky2]

I'm just assuming it is based on the fact that theres a shield between the rotor and the inards of the distribter, that the 1986-7 doesn't have. I checked out the emissions ratings from years and 1988 is lower. Plus also it has the same chip as fuel injected models., which has more horsepower.

[A20A1]

I've driven with both distributors myself... the tec is better... I can't say why though.

[Grant2k]

Originally posted by A20A1
I've driven with both distributors myself... the tec is better... I can't say why though.

so it is better to use the 88 distibutor?