Help with my Build

[2drSE-i]

Alright guys, im in the hardcore research portion of my project, here are my plans.

Individual Throttle Bodies: Honda CBR FI TB's, using their TPS sensors. I will use an a20 intake manifold, chop it up and use only the flange, straight runners and velocity stacks after the TBs. Heres my questions on this: Should i use the CBR Fuel rail with this? Will it fit? Do the CBR TPS Sensors match the same voltage as our TPS Sensors?

Semi-hardcore N/A Build
Headwork: similar to rjudgey's, larger valves, skimmed .5mm, mild cam, upgraded valve springs (researching that as well)
Bottom End: Skimmed 1mm, Diamond Racing custom pisons machined to work with B-series titanium rods. Comp ratio on this whole build is not to exceed 10.5:1.

Other than that, like i said im still doing heavy research, this is still at least a year away. As for management, OBD-1. Ill be using a 92-93 Accord Distributor, external coil. Ill have a bracket made for it to fit right. Here is the real question. I want to use Crome or Hondata s300 for tuning. I know almost no1 has run aftermarket tuning, mostly because i dont think there are any decent basemaps for us. Can anyone help me out, point me in the right direction?

[guaynabo89]

Most tps volages register at .5v closed throttle and 4.5v wide open. Just test the sensors and adjust acordingly until closed is at .5v and full open at 4.5 volts .

as far as basemap I would think the closest would be from a sohc 16v non-vtec civic timing. fuel would be a difernt story all together if your going itb's.


good luck with this project and what kinda time frae you giving yourself?

[cygnus x-1]

Sounds like a fun build. If you went with Megasquirt I could help you but I know nothing of any other EM systems.

C|

[2drSE-i]

a long ass time. As for TPS sensors, i did a little investigating into Crome and it has internal adjustment so you can use any tps sensor. d16 nonvtec i think would be close. I got to looking at how Crome works and apparently you can use datalogging and make adjustments based on readings. I think if i did this step by step it would be best. First, OBD-1 with the ECU that everyone else is using for their swap (i cant remember what it is...) and get it running, make a boatload of adjustments to make it run damnnear perfect, and then swap on the ITBs, and get that running. When i get into my career (hopefully 9 months from now) im buying a new car, and this one will be my weekend driver.

[Hauntd ca3]

I'm building a b20a and using toyota 4age 20 valve quad throttles which would prob be the ones that i'd recommend to most 2 liter engine builds.
depending on the engine spec they come up to 46 or 47 mm .
Use a modified (of course) manifold for your engine and the toyota 4agze injectors or what everelse you want to use and should be an inlet set up
good to flow 250 horses.
And if you can afford it a microtech,motec,autronic or link ecu.
These computers are all real good. autronic comps run the two fastest 4 and 6 cylinder 4 wheel drive drag cars in the world.

[2drSE-i]

CBR throttles are 48mm i believe, and arent as hard to come by. As for injectors, i will either be running 280cfm prelude injectors, or 450 cfm dsm injectors. I dont know crap about those ecus tho

[MessyHonda]

cool i didnt see this thread till today....sounds like a fun lil project im also getting mine done lets hope by next year after April since i want to smog with my stock engine.

i have similar plans...mini NA motor....nothing over 10.5 compression since i want to keep adding regular pump gas in it.

[guaynabo89]

only bad thing about those toyota itb's is they use side feed injectors. so if anything happens to those its gonna cost ou more for replacements.

[LX-incredible]

I'm gathering parts for a similar build minus the ITBs. It will be interesting to see what you go with.

[2drSE-i]

what is our stock compression? isnt it 9.5??

[LX-incredible]

Yes.

[Legend_master]

Your going to use the factory accord fuel rail. Make sure to get the proper tuning software, because those ITB's can be a real pain in the ass to tune. Hit me up if you need someone to build those ITB's, I know a shop that could get the job done.

[2drSE-i]

yea crome has full ITB support. im more than likely just gonna drop the money and buy Crome Pro. i remember you telling me about that shop last time i was at your house.

[MessyHonda]

what is our stock compression? isnt it 9.5??

9.3 to be exact

[2drSE-i]

close enough lol. Seems interesting to me that they went so low with such strong internals, but thats ok i guess haha

[LX-incredible]

9.3 to be exact

He's right. I wonder where I pulled 9.5 out of.

[2drSE-i]

He's right. I wonder where I pulled 9.5 out of.

my ass, same place i pulled it out of

[MessyHonda]

yup yup....i wonder what kind of compression we would get with b18 pistons. i would like to get at 10.3-10.5 compresion...with a .30 overbore.

[2drSE-i]

thats my plans. but id rather just get custom made pistons, larger wristpins so i can use titanium b series rods.

[2drSE-i]

damn dp...

[MessyHonda]

thats my plans. but id rather just get custom made pistons, larger wristpins so i can use titanium b series rods.

yeah if you do...lets see if we can do a group buy....at least me and you.

[86AccordLxi]

I think you mean just forged rods. In any event, an all motor a20 probably won't make more than 200whp. Stock rods would probably be fine at the power levels you'll see. I put eagle rods in my 240. Cheap at ~$400 and supposed to hold up to 600-800hp.

I think the thing to realize is that n/a power costs REAL money, especially if you want reliability sprinkled in with it. Rebello in CA builds n/a Ka24e single cam motors for racecars that can put outl 250-300hp n/a (with carbs even haha), but the motors don't last over the long term.

Alex

[MessyHonda]

I think you mean just forged rods. In any event, an all motor a20 probably won't make more than 200whp. Stock rods would probably be fine at the power levels you'll see. I put eagle rods in my 240. Cheap at ~$400 and supposed to hold up to 600-800hp.

I think the thing to realize is that n/a power costs REAL money, especially if you want reliability sprinkled in with it. Rebello in CA builds n/a Ka24e single cam motors for racecars that can put outl 250-300hp n/a (with carbs even haha), but the motors don't last over the long term.

Alex

i dont care about how much power it makes(in reality i dont think it will make more than 150whp) all i care about is that when i rev it to 7000 RPM the bottom end will take it. stock rods are not ment for high performance thats why the eagle rods are a good choice i seen them for around 350 bucks.

i learned my leason...might as well spend the money now when the engine is all apart then later down the road when you blow the bottom doing 7000RPM pulls. in 2nd gear.

[86AccordLxi]

Yup, there's that. I wasn't really planning on upgrading my rods, but shit, while you're spending money...might as well spend some more haha.

Alex

[LX-incredible]

yeah if you do...lets see if we can do a group buy....at least me and you.

If you're serious about this, I'd be in as well.