not holding my breath on a worn bearing.
to many flake in the sump for that.
as long as it hasnt damaged the crank or block she'll be right.
that would explain the uneven exhaust sound in that vid earlier in the thread tho.
not holding my breath on a worn bearing.
to many flake in the sump for that.
as long as it hasnt damaged the crank or block she'll be right.
that would explain the uneven exhaust sound in that vid earlier in the thread tho.
its not hard to find another good crank and block if it is stuffed. i have the spare engine i built with b16a pistons but it needs an oversize piston set chucked in it
well, its official
the b20a is fecked
spun number 3 main, marked up the crank and worn a big groove in the block.
need nutha block and crank.
whole motor in need of rebuild would be fine, now can match port the head to itb manifold
boooo!. oh well at least another engines not gunna set you back a million dollars.
the crank would prob survive with a grind to say 10 or 20 thou undersize, but the block is goosed.
going to clean up the block and make a coffee table for the man cave ah la top gear
what is b20 availability like these days anyway? would think they'll be pretty rare now after aaron thrashed them all and scrapped them lol
they are common in junkyards but not trademe. but they are all fucked even the junkyard cars
there aint a b20a to be seen in a jy down this end of the world.
hell, i think i've only ever seen 2 other si exclusives down here, and i bought one of them as a write off just for the leather.
awesome. Now for some pistons
yeah, some nice forgies eh. found a place in the states that has some proper 10.5:1 , .5 mm over B20a5 pistons. bout 600 US, or bout a grand landed.
but i wouldnt have to mod them to suit the H beams.
just a nice bolt together , fully forged bottom end.
go real nice with big cams and the quads![]()
yeah saves a bit of time. shame it still cannot be revved high without fail
i still plan to keep with the factory limiter or there abouts.
just nice that i know i wont be breaking a rod or anything.
aslong as i dont do another bearing eh
yeah with the amount of stroke these things have i thought it would have been a big end or rings that would have failed not a main. im only upping my limiter 500rpm and thats it.
yeah eh!
the pistons in mine are looking a bit dark down the skirts, so i think the rings were bout poked as well.
funny thing is the big ends, while worn, are not to bad.
thinking back, i'm pretty sure that main spun on the dyno at tech , cause it stalled and was hard to turn over after it did that.
that was prob the bearing welding to the crank i think eh.
the thrust bearings are stuck to the block as well, so she's well pooched
ah well she'll be right with a new block and a freshen up. dont loose interest! haha
done the maths tonight, the pistons from the states work out at just over a grand thanks to the govts Grab,Snatch and Take tax.
going to end up putting them on the Q card at bout $1200, at least then i have some come back if the engine shop screws things up
so have you got pistons with the same pin size as your rods?
yeah, they are B20a specific wiseco's.
10.5:1 comp, 81.5 mm bore, 22mm pin.
come with rings, gudgeons and clips
just gotta find a grand to get them now.
they also have 82 mm bore, but only 9.0:1 comp
all the rest of the work , ie, boring, honing, cleaning, balancing and a bottom end gasket set is bout 1200.
check out raceeng.com .
they have pistons,rods, even headgaskets for b20a. b20a5 to be specific, but it still b20a
yeah a few b20a5 bits are the same so thats good.
the head gasket is the major bit
cometic headgasket is $87 US, or bout 100 nzd.
eagle forged cranks if you wanna go silly
stainless valves @ bout 20 each
bout 160US for mains and big ends
if you dont mind paying a bit more for your parts, these guys seem to have all the shit to build a monster B20a
i'm feckin wrapped to have found these guys
can you even get a head gasket from the USA for a b20? only thru their group buy thing i guess. they are cheaper from reco and the likes tho.
I have looked and looked online for any B20A gaskets in the US and I haven't been able to find any that's why I'm trying to do the group buy. Keep in mind the group buy is for a complete gasket set and not just a head gasket though. I imagine if you can find and more importantly just need only a head gasket you may be able to find a head gasket for less but everywhere I could find online they were out of stock or $90 plus shipping to get here so it would cost me just as much for a head set as a full set and I'd still have to use silicone for the oil pan.
Steve
Latest Poll and thread for you B20A guys:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/classic-a...ts-2013-a.html
My Build
https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...x-new-car.html
i think hes rebuilding it so he should grab the whole set IMO
Yeah I agree since the head gasket and oil pan gasket are different than the B20A5 from everything I've seen and heard. No offense to the fine folks at Race Engineering, I've built some mean 2300 Ford motors with their parts, but unless they know something we're all missing I don't think a B20A5 head gasket is going to work too well.
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