sent the crank off to be crack tested today.
will find out tomorrow if its ok to use again.
if it is, i have been assured that the block and main caps can be repaired and be good as new again.
might still end up a numbers matching beastie!
sent the crank off to be crack tested today.
will find out tomorrow if its ok to use again.
if it is, i have been assured that the block and main caps can be repaired and be good as new again.
might still end up a numbers matching beastie!
good news came back on the crank today.
crack tested ok and only needs a .010 undersize grind on the mains only.
next is to see how much it will cost to get the block welded
thats good. keeping the engine number matching would be good
talked to the engine shop today
going to cost bout 300 to repair the block and grind the crank.
so including boring for the wisecos and crack testing the crank, runs to bout 650
better start shitting money. better be worth it in the end tho
yeah, the whole engine rebuild is going to run to like $3000 by the time its all done.
but thats a pretty serious build tho.
full forged bottom end, balanced from crank pulley to pressure plate, cams, valve springs etc etc
there is still a tune to go on that as well
prob looking at the thick end of 5k by the time its back on the road
Blocks off to to be repaired tomorrow.
got the head at work to strip down so can remove the casting marks from the ports.
panel beater is coming to look at the body this week.
when the tax refund comes in, the cams will be off for a regrind.
got 800kg of scrap batteries at work and a few tons of scrapped starters and altenators which will pay for the pistons and the remaining machining.
now i have room to put some parts, ie 400 square meter workshop, things may get going again. but no rush, taken 7 years so far, so whats another year or so.
oh, and by the way, i have decided to go with a link ecu so the microtech is for sale
Awesome! Glad to see this build is back on progress. I see you have some nice goodies coming inOriginally Posted by Hauntd ca3
dont forget to fill the batteries up with water before scrapping them!
i get paid for each battery, not on weight.
so much for a truck battery, bit less for large car battery and bit less again for small car battery
sent head off to be cleaned up in the ports and matched to the inlet manifold.
had a good talk to the guy doing it, and he looked over the whole inlet set up, thinks it will be a great fast road set up.
ports just need a clean up, no need to enlarge them, port size and shape is wicked from the get go, and my inlet mani and itb set up will give good torque and power.
this from a guy that builds formula ford motors, BDA escort motors etc etc
think mat be on to a good thing eh
told him my aim and he thinks i'm not expecting to much at 240fwhp.
as long as you make more power at the wheels than a stock ITR ill be happy with your build. Ill be happy if mine makes 180whp
the guy doing the work is familiar with the motors, and says the B20a is a good thing.
long stroke for torque, nice port shape and chamber shape for power. thinks my inlet will work well having a nice even taper from butterfly to port which will keep airspeed high and aid in cylinder fill. big cams and higher comp ratio and a link to tune it with. not getting to excited just yet, but i cant wait to see his work and get the car moving again. stil craploads to spend though.
any updates!
nah, guy is doing the head as he has time.
block has been welded, just need to take it to get machined, but going to wait until i have the pistons etc so can get the lot done at once.
got the head back yesterday
actually had very little done
bit off blending round the seats and some minor grinding to match the ports up.
gave the ports and chambers a bead blast to finish them off.
spent the last few hours today running a tap through all the threads and polishing the cam running surfaces.
anyone got a lead on good prices for new valves?
ordered a set of new valves today, 256 dollars for 16 brand spanking new ones.
so that runs the head and attached bits to bout 1300 buckaroos, plus injectors to come, so prob 1600 odd
Just had panel beater look at the car, reckons bout 2 days worth of work to get her ready for paint, so roughly 600-800 dollars for panel.
not going to finish the panel and paint now I have a business to run, just don't have time anymore
picked up skim putty, and 2k primer/sealer today, another 350 dollars out the door there.
prob 400-500 for the painter, starting to get expensive now.
still have an ecu, pistons etc to buy yet.
starting to look more like 10k to finish rather than 5 or 6k.
at least I found a guy that refinishes wheels for 80 buck each.
and forgot some new front brake rotors and pads, and a rear caliper that must have got lost in the freight from the north island.......
Just been talking to a bloke who has a tweaked b20a
big cams,adjustable cam gears , eagle rods , knife edged crank, high comp pistons , mitsi evo valves , fully balanced
was maxed on engine dyno at 280hp at the flywheel running on 45dcoe webbers and av gas.
10.5k spent on it.
bloke that put me on to it says I could get it for 1500 bucks, only done 4 speedway meetings.
off to look at it tomorrow.
bet its a b20a5 prelude motor hahaha sounds like a good buy if its for sale and you have the coin
he swapped from b20a to h22a in his speedway car, think it maybe a proper 3g accord/2g lude b20a.
now that I think bout it, i'm pretty sure I saw it on trademe a year or so back
thats mint.
hopefully he has a gearbox to go with it all
probably uses some other variety of gearbox. do u need a spare? lol
it out of a limited sedan , so I thnk it will have either the b2k5 or f2k5 with it, hope so anyway.
if this motor is as hot as he says, and from talking to his mate that put me on to him, it is pretty hot
i'd like to have a spare box with the better part of 300 hp to play with.
if its a good looker, need to convince the wife its a good deal , which it is.
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