Take the oil pump out and check the clearances on the rotor, if it is fine i wouldn't worry about getting a new pump. I spent about $20 getting o-rings from Honda for the pump.
Take the oil pump out and check the clearances on the rotor, if it is fine i wouldn't worry about getting a new pump. I spent about $20 getting o-rings from Honda for the pump.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
so did they port and polish it or how much would that would of cost?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
the shop i took it to said they didnt do that kind of work. i would have to take it to another shop thats near there that deals specificly in performance work. they didnt take very much off, said it was really not that warped but did need to be shaved which i wanted anyways. the middle of the head was where it had the low spot, so that would explain the coolant in the oil. might take the oil pump off and check the clearnaces inside like russainkid said, that would probably not be a bad idea and could save me some money. i ordered a new PCV tube that goes from the oil baffle thing under the intake manifold and up to it. it was brittle and broke so i wanted a new one.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
ok, so i've got the head installed, set the cam timing, adjusted the valves. i really hope the mark on the flex plate was correct. it seemed to be in relation to the piston's position. and not hitting any valves when the crank is rotated. so looks good i suppose. now i just need to do a few more things and it should be good to go. i ordered my timing belt kit, but i'm going to wait and see how things go first before i install a new one. will probably just use the belt i already had for a test run since it was in great shape. might want to drain the fuel tank since its been sitting for about 4 1/2 months. but it was almost empty anyways so thats good. cant wait to see how the weber performs. should be a great improvement over the kehin.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
here's how its lookin. i want to make a plate to go over where the egr valve is. i also want to clean it up a bit and take some unnecessary things out. i'll want to use some degreaser on the block to make everything look fresh. hopefully by tomorrow i'll have it running with everything connected. i'll be redoing the amp wiring and i think that brake booster needs that rust taken care of. also going to reverse that fuel line location on the carb so its out of the way. since summer is comming up, i think i'm going to fix the ac. i think all it needs is a new expansion valve. might get other new parts though if its in the budget.
Last edited by HondaBoy; 02-26-2008 at 12:49 AM.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
it is starting to look familiar
hum this all seams very familer
i got the pcv tube a couple of days ago. the one that was on there was original and plastic like in hardness. and very brittle. so here's the new pcv tube. yesterday i put the starter on and cranked it over without the spark plugs in. also did a compression test. got 150 psi in each cylinder, but i figure once its run with oil able to get slung up onto the cylinder walls, i'll get a better result. something i found wierd, the headlights, horn and stereo among other things wouldnt work well. but the starter was able to turn the engine. guess it doesnt need all of 12+ volts. i need to get a new water outlet, part that bolts to the side of the head, and a new thermostat housing piece. one of the bolts and the threads of the housing were fused together and not even drilling it out worked which just ended up tearing things up. so i'll either get those pieces brand new or go to the junk yard sometime this week. i also took some other brakets and vacuum oporated things out of the engine compartment to clean it up some more. i'd like to redo some of the wiring while i'm at it so i might get around to that also. another thing, i notice the belt slips in the directing of taking it off the cam. i havent put the crank shaft pulley back on so the belt guide isnt firmly in place. so i'm thinking thats all that is.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Looking good. The reason you couldn't drill those bolts out of the thermostat housing is because they are hardened. I tried to drill mine out but ended up getting a new housing like you.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
well guess what, i got another housing from the junk yard. the damn thing has the same problem! i'm going to take it by the machine shop at school i suppose. they should be able to get the broken bolt out for me since PB blaster and vise grips didnt work. should get some more done on it this next week.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
yeah, i might just have to do that and get it from majestic honda. its a part that should have had anti seize on it, but unfortuately didnt. wont make this mistake again. looking like a few small things away from running.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Its steel bolts in an aluminium housing there's not much you can do. It should be a warning to anyone that wants to change there T-stat. Heat/cold and water don't help.
I redrilled mine the next size up ,standard its about all you can do.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
For driling out bolts it's easier if you use the right type of bit. Find a split point cobalt bit. The split point helps to start the bit without walking and the cobalt in the steel makes it harder than the bolt you are drilling. It also helps to file/dremel the top of the bolt flat and then use a punch to put a dimple on it. The dimple will also help keep the bit from walking.
Heating with a torch and spraying with penetrating oil while still hot might also help loosen up the stuck bolt.
C|
well i ended up drilling this one out also. screwed up some of the threads, so i may tap it to another size which i was thinking i would have to do. anyways, i think i'm gonna give it a shot today of trying to get it started up.
well this evening i had indeed got the car running. started on the first try. i really havent adjusted the distributor and carb, but it ran really well. steady idle at about 1500 rpms, choke not open. not sputtering, and it revs freely without any bogging down. so i think i have it done right. just a few minor things and the old 3gee should be back in business! so far, so good. and i hope that i dont run into any little bs problems. those dry cell batteries really hold up, even not being charged for months. i still want to give it a charge though. anyways, i'll probably get more done to it this week with my spare time and hopefully get it road worthy by the weekend.
Last edited by HondaBoy; 03-05-2008 at 08:23 PM.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
well unfortuately i havent had a bit of time for the 3gee. like i said it did run, but i still have some things to do. i need to relocate the temp sensor so thats something i need to get done. i did however get the alternator and ps pump bolted up and put a belt on them. i also ran it for about 20 minutes, no problems as far as i could see. it did miss on one cylinder slightly at idle. could have some oil or raw fuel on one of the plugs, so i'll have to adress that issue. also fixed the thermostat housing. monday is about my only day off so i'm going to try my best to get this thing finished up and ready to go back on the road. i need to get new registration and an inspection, also some insurance. thats another $275 or so. cant wait to get this thing finished and back to where it should be.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
well i finally got this thing together and on the road. drives pretty good. i think i'm going to need to tweek it some more with the carb and timing, but other than that runs pretty smooth and no problems. might want to run some 93+ octane in it too. doesnt ping or anything, but would probably run a little better with something that will burn a little slower. now i just need my registration which means i have to go down town and to the court house to get it. i want to get the air conditioning fixed because its starting to get pretty hot here. might put a whole new system in with all new components and have it warranteed. that would be nice.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Good deal.
Do you just crimp that Air suction pipe pipe off the intake for the weber or what? Trying to see what I need to do for the Weber set up.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 03-14-2008 at 07:52 PM.
.
well the pipe that connects to the intake i took out of the fitting. then filled the fitting with JB weld and put it back since i couldnt find a plug that size. i did crimp the pipes on the header though, no problems since i've had the header which was a while back now. i'll take some new pix i suppose to show what i've done since this weber setup is pretty vague to most of us.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
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