well its not as hard as you think. computers are part of our everyday lives. Myself i built my own computer...this is the computer that has helped me post the 13k+ post i have.i dont have a problem with it because i know how it work or how to fix it. most of the stuff that goes wrong is sensors(as a 20 year old car most of them should get replaced anyways). I like to be consistent, because with carbs it can run like crap one day and the next it can run fine.(you cant drive it up to 5000ft and expect the same performance with out tunning) and with fuel injection it compensates to make up for power most of our wiring is not bad.i have learned lots with this website and great guys on here like Pico..its not a new car with sensor on sensors....i got to drive my friends malibu and it does not have the same feeling because its all electronical not even spark plug wires...its werid how they make stuff now.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
one of my customers has an '87 sedan just like mine. said it runs and all, for $800. lives in my neighborhood so i need to go check that out. if not to use it for a parts car, then another 3gee just to drive while i work on my original. just dont have enough time to work on my car. maybe because i'm weary of working on an engine thats still in a car. always have worked on engines that were out and on an engine stand with plenty of room to see everything. another thing, i started the car yesterday briefly. really sounds like the head gasket is blown between the cylinders, from other experiences. didnt get a chance to go borrow my teachers coolant system pressure tester. should i just dig into this project? i keep wondering that. i really dont like to start something and then have it sit for days at a time, but i think thats going to be the only way to get this done at this point.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
i thoght the temp sensor was screwed into the back of the carb. but i guess not? if not them yeah, i'd like to have those conversion fittings. thought i was going to have to make something else to addapt a temp sensor. got any pix of where its located on the carb manifold?
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Ok MessyHonda I was not trying to dis your point really, but what was your point anyway? we were discussing a particular issue here, all due respect to your skills but I have been in the biz a while and I was there for the transformation ..lol.. I had to totally relearn drivability diagnosis and most all areas of cars,changed as well, so I pretty much know a good bit of both worlds.And I be dammed heave ho, they changed it again in the past five years, now you have drive by wire, variable valve timing, cylinder cut outs, two ratio automaitcs, . it goes on and on with more technology.
You are right, ultimate tuning can easily be accomplished with electronic fuel injection, but it is limitied to predesigned systems with internal parimeters. For your arguement, yes aftermarket reasearch and expensive lab created electronics can get you there $$$$ so as a hobbyist and dealing with a retro import like my 86 accord I will always defend the carburator and my personal choice of the underdog auto tranny, well at least that first one anyway..
HondaBoy did you run a cormpression check or pull the plugs to confirm the head gasket? It is a wonder you didnt break a rod with that kind of water going in the Chamber, funny it was the head gasket being the weak point for uncompresable agents, must have been on its way already. zi really wanted to hear how much you were digging the weber difference
must have been enevitable. i've run the car hard for about 6 years and over 80000 miles. it wasnt that surprising that the gasket gave out. probably a good thing, well when compared to all the other bad things that can happen when head pressure is too great. i can go do a compression check right now so i guess ill do that and see what else is up with that. i did one then not the others which i should have done.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
compression from the first cylinder starting at the front to the last was 185, 180, 178, 185. last i did a compression check it was 190 on all 4. so this leads me to believe that the two middle cylinders are leaking a bit. only problem is when they begin to compress with a plug firing. espececially when the thermostat has fully opened. but the water mixing with the oil has to be a cracked head or blow out gasket. also the water spewing out of the radiator fill hole after the thermostat has opened has me convinced it is the head gasket.
^thanks man
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
The best test that will lead you to what is going on is LEAK DOWN TEST. It's the only test that will put air in the cooling system without running the engine & second guessing. Compression test isn't so accurate.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 10-12-2007 at 07:55 PM. Reason: add on
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Kind of confusing when you say leak down test, that is a term I am used to hearing while checking compression. I think you are talking about cooling system pressure check, you use the pressure tester... attach on end in place of the radiator cap, and then pump it up to the lb rating stamped on your radiator cap. watch the guage and see if the cooling system hold specified pressure,..lol or any pressure.
It really does not sound like a head gasket blown here Im sorry, or cracked had either, but I hope you can get to the problem Hondaboy, whatever it is.
It is normal to get some spew when your therrmo opens with the cap off. Also you have to purge the air out of the system.
Most people don't realize a leak down tester can also find a blown head gasket. Yeah, it's mainly a tester for valves & rings. There are 3 testers that can find a leaking head gasket. The coolant pressure tester, a compression tester & a leak down tester.
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You know, after reading this again I'm not convinced the head gasket is blown either. I would have expected much lower numbers from the compression test. Try it again with the radiator cap off and see if you can hear bubbles after each cylinder is pressurized. The water in the oil could be leakage past the rings. It wouldn't take all that much water to foul the oil. And about the radiator geyser; just the other day I had to change out my coolant temp sensor so I drained the radiator. When I was done I poured the water back in and thought everything was fine. I started it up and let it idle to warm up and after a few minutes I saw water boiling out the catch bottle. So I shut it off and let it sit to cool down a little. After starting it back up and revving the engine all the water in the bottle got sucked back into the system and everything was fine. There was just some trapped air in the system and it didn't clear until the water pump spun fast enough to build enough pressure.
C|
really? doesnt sound like a blown head gasket? water mixing into the oil, coolant blowing sky high out of the radiator fill hole when run for a few minutes. and not to mention this already happened to me with my diesel jetta, same symtoms. can you explain the water mixing into the oil after two oil changes? same thing happening each time, water mixing into the oil. if not the head gasket, then something has cracked. either the water passages surrounding the cylinder or cracked head between the oil passages. but then again it wouldnt run as good as it does in its current condition if those were true.
Last edited by HondaBoy; 10-18-2007 at 10:51 AM.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
Two oil changes you say? Well then there is definitely *something* wrong. Could be a leak out to a coolant passage then. In any case you might want to pull the head off just to assess the damage even if it turns out the head gasket is ok. They aren't that expensive.
Did you try listening for bubbles?
C|
I cant tell but were you questioning yourself in that last sentence? If it is running ok and not missing on any cylinders, you may not have what you think is all I am saying.. All I can say is go look very carefully at the weber install section here, there are things that the weber kit instructions do not tell you about the install. And despite changing the oil sometimes you still have enough water in there to make a yoohoo, you still need to run the car a while to let the oil do its work and evaporate the water. I know what you are talking about the the jetta, you also smelled fuel real strong in the radiator too I would bet.. you had compression going into the cooling system.
Just trying to help, and I hate to see something misdiagnosed and money thrown away...
ok, here's something new. i found that as i spin the crankshaft, on the compression stroke on the middle cylinders i believe, i can hear air going into the crank case and valve cover. nothing into the coolant system though that i can tell. now whether or not it is the head gasket, the head indeed need to come off for inspection. i already have the gasket set so i'm not worried there. only paid like $60 for it though since i have an employee discount where i work.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
hey i made you one,i have to tig weld a bracket to it,and tap the 1/8 bsp threads for the sensor. this will allow you to hook up the temp sensor,and both of the temp controlled vaccume valves on the manifold. i put an extra 1/4 npt thread in one end,in case you need to send coolant anywhere else. if you don't use it it can have a 1/4 npt pipe plug put in it. you can get one at the hardware store.
got any pix? thanks for your help. it is much appreciated.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
two of the ports are for the two vaccume sensors,that screw into the manifold,the small one is for your temp sensor, you bolt this to your firewall,and the water inlet hose to the manifold goes to one end and the outlet hose to the other.
holy crap thats sweet man. tomorrow i have planned to start tearing the A20 apart. hopefully nothing falls through since its my day off. i should at least get the head off and be able to ascertain the damage.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
hey try and pm me,and let me know whats going on, i will try to get the mounting plate on monday if i can. and i'll get with you about getting it sent. you'll have to get the fittings for the end, from the hardware store, i can't remember what size the inlet and outlet hose are. the threads on the adaptor are just standard 1/4 npt. you can get those from any hardware store, you just get the hose barb end to fit the hoses on the car. i hope this helps you out. you'll still have to block off the hose that comes from the original carb base,if you haven't already done so. it comes off of the water pipe.
ok, that sounds good. i really havent had time to do much of anything. its kinda hard taking care of a house, going to school and working. but i plan to get this somewhat finished within 2 to 3 weeks from now. and i will pm you when i get things together a bit more.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
did you pick up that other Honda?
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