mmhmmm. well anyway, i'll just go back to the stock manifold.my dc headers have a leak at the flexpipe, so i'll get that fixed w/ new flex section. and while i'm at it, i'll get an o2 bung welded in in preparation for obd-1.
mmhmmm. well anyway, i'll just go back to the stock manifold.
man thats gotta suck balls haveing to swap back to a stock gay manifold
alright, went back to stock. got new egr tube, and it's STILL not running right. sounds ok at idle, but when i try to drive it, there's no fire and it's backfiring like crazy. could it be because of the #3 cylinder not firing all the time? bc i noticed that too...
which end is it backfiring from, intake or out the exhaust?
exhaust. you can hear what sounds like whole combustions happening in the exhaust itself and it still smells extremely rich. it's definitely seems like a fuel metering/delivery problem. i unplugged the battery to reset the ecu, i didn't mess with any of the vacuum lines, egr is hooked up, o2 sensors are hooked up, dizzy is back on and timing is set.
If #3 is not firing check for bad wire, spark plug or your dizzy could be bad.
Engine could be trying to compensate for bad #3.
Phil
wires are new, since i ripped a boot when i was first taking the headers off. and #3 fires intermittently. a rate of looks like about 4 out of 5 or something like that. i'll check plugs...
turns out that the firing order was off. i'd swapped #2 and #3. grr, bc i could've left the headers on after all.
oops! i bet you like it now!
Originally Posted by snoopyloopy
i know how that feels like.....same thing happen to me on my obd1 swap it would cough but not start up. on my OEM distributor cap it tells you the order.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yeah, i have the oem cap still. and i had the order right i thought.
Its a learning experience, just think how fast you'll be able to re-install that DC header.
You know your going to put it back on, now don't you.
Phil
it'll probably be awhile, lol. the egr tube is stripped, so i'll just get o2 bung welded onto it, get the flex section repaired/replaced, and get the egr rethreaded then i'll block it off w/ a tranny screw or something then i'll obd1 + bseries manifold. that'll have to suffice until i can finally go b20a.messy's numbers aren't bad, so i'm seriously considering it now...
it'll probably be awhile, lol. the egr tube is stripped, so i'll just get o2 bung welded onto it, get the flex section repaired/replaced, and get the egr rethreaded then i'll block it off w/ a tranny screw or something then i'll obd1 + bseries manifold. that'll have to suffice until i can finally go b20a.
right now i think im up to like the 120whp...i still need to dyno it but it pulls a whole lot harder in 4th gear....i got up to 120....yes that is right in 4th...in about a 1.5 mile stretch.....it was scary fast.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
In 4th gear that has to be close to redline. And that is scary fast.
C|
civic eat ftw!
wow I was reading the newest posts here and was thinking, I wonder if he got turned around and was counting the cyl backwards, #4 is by the tranny..that is not #1 but then you had 3 crossed I am surprised it didnt backfire in the intake as well as exhaust.
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