shit pics dont work for me wtf!?!?!
shit pics dont work for me wtf!?!?!
Originally Posted by CAH
LOL! I knew you would ask about facing with such a small bit. The only one I know of uses inserts and only gets used on the Haas. I'm still kind of a rookie at machining and our primary machinist doesn't trust me with the good stuff yet.So I just grabbed what was handy and it happened to be that. The mill has a facing cycle so I can just give it the dimensions and walk away. We do have some fly cutters though so I'll try that next time.
With that pocket, I actually was blowing it out with compressed air right when it broke. It was a 4 flute cutter so not as much room for chips to start with, and it was kinda dull already. The edges had aluminum buildup on them so the chips were sticking to it. I usually dab oil on the cutter to keep buildup down but I was having a hard time getting it in there and keeping the chips out at the same time. It was just a no win situation.
The mill is a Bridgeport EZ-Trak. It's a 2.5 axis CNC which means X/Y are full CNC and Z is manual with a scale. It's a fun machine to learn on because the controls are fairly simple yet surprisingly versatile. And it can be used as a manual with DRO when you just want to bang something out really quick.
C|
Alright, so picking up where we left off...
So after adjusting the program for a larger 2 flute cutter we can rough out the coolant port without fear of endmill homicide...
And then we come back with another 1/4" cutter to clean it up. And that completes the top side.
Here is the fixture plate I was talking about earlier. The little raised circles fit exactly into the counterbores on the top side and locate the plate correctly for machining the bottom side.
So first we dig out the coolant port.
Then we cut the grooves for the seals. And at this point right here we notice that there is a problem. The next picture shows it a little better.
If you look at hte front part of the goove you can see a dark line. That line is a shadow created by the uncut part between the groove and the port. What happened is that the port on the top side is too deep and there was not enough material left for the groove. After checking the model and program I found that there were actually two problems. One is that I cut the port too deep by .025", and the other is that there really wasn't enough clearance in the model to begin with. I thought I would have noticed this before but apparently not. This is what I meant before about having enough material for an "oh shit" part. This is an "oh shit" part.
But that's ok, we'll keep going and see what happens.
The other seal groove went fine and now all that's left is the outside contour.
And there it is. Not bad really for a first run. So now that we've found all the issues we can adjust and try again.
And here is number 2 completed. The coolant port is shallower so no chance of interference with the seal groove. And I used a fly cutter on both sides which made for a good flat surface and really nice finish.
So hey, we're done! The first set of parts is ready for testing. Angus, I don't think I have your mailing address so I'll PM you to let you know.
C|
god that's pretty... i'm gonna call him in a minute i'll tell him to come on here.
dead white and blue
very nice.
Oh, and here's the finished key. Stupid board wouldn't let me post more than 10 pictures in one message. And I keep getting database errors.
C|
Nice work, i can't wait to get my hands on one.
Holy cow, it looks beautiful! Good work!
I'll pm you in a minute with the address.
...And thanks for the call Patrick.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
That looks great!
I've been trying to read the update to this thread for the last 2 days but kept getting "tcp_error".
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
turn your phone on shitty and maybe i would. tried like ten times yesterday.Holy cow, it looks beautiful! Good work!
I'll pm you in a minute with the address.
...And thanks for the call Patrick.
dead white and blue
Really?
I talked to you eariler today didn't I?
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
yup not bad...il post up the openloop set up...its much easyer but you have to cut the distributor
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Oh yea openloop is legit setup
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Fuck that hack and drill trash. Bolt on + disrtibutor king = lifetime warranty.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
yup...but he made it work like in 2002...even my curent one is not bad...just rewelded the ears
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Amazing work, should make the distributor conversion look very pretty!
Alright kids, I should have the plate this wednesday and if everything checks out, you'll be able to get these from cygnus x-1 at the mentioned price. I will also be testing the ecu jumpers and conversion harnesses and putting them up for sale.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
lol @ cutting up a distributor to make it work... sounds like a great idea... you know that a lot of atermarket distributors show up DOA right? what happens if you have no way of testing it until you cut the shit out of the housing and reweld it then put it on and it doesn't work? this is like an argument about butt connectors vs soldering. hey it works but it's not the best way to do it...
can't wait to see the plate i'm getting all giddy.
dead white and blue
Not only that, you need to grind away at the base of the thermostat housing and redrill the key. Then the vent doesn't sit right and you need to worry about water getting in there and oil if the seal ever goes. Not for me.lol @ cutting up a distributor to make it work... sounds like a great idea... you know that a lot of atermarket distributors show up DOA right? what happens if you have no way of testing it until you cut the shit out of the housing and reweld it then put it on and it doesn't work? this is like an argument about butt connectors vs soldering. hey it works but it's not the best way to do it...
can't wait to see the plate i'm getting all giddy.
Hopefully you can see it installed this Saturday.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
im ready to buy the kit THE VERY SECOND it goes up for sale.
i have money in hand.
-Harvey
x2
how much the kit running for 400ish with both pieces?
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
i read in here somewhere i think...adaptor plate $200..dizzy key...$90
+ shipping
i could be wrong though...
-Harvey
Not sure why but for some reason this project seems to be cursed with incredible delays. So here's what been going on.
As I mentioned before our machinist's wife has been very sick and at this point I don't think she has much time left. So I've been hesitant to bug him with this since we have plenty of other work to do. However, I've been wanting to learn how to run CNC machines and use Mastercam myself so over the last few weeks I've been working on our 2 axis (CNC) Bridgeport and using Mastercam to write programs for simple parts. Which also includes this adapter plate and key.
At this point I have what I think is a pretty optimal program for both parts. The optimization is to try and reduce the time required to make the parts, thereby making them cheaper. For example, having to cut the coolant port at an angle would add quite a bit to the cost because the part has to be set up on an angle plate, which is kind of a pain to get everything lined up right. And honestly the first set of numbers I thew out awhile back was almost too cheap considering the work involved. So now the coolant port is just cut out with the part flat on both sides. The overlap in the pockets allows enough room for coolant flow. So that's no problem.
Right now I have the program setup so that I would make 3 plates at one time from a single piece of stock. This way I can reduce the number of times I have to position the work in the vise and line up the tool to the work. I could also easily cut the program down to 1 or 2 parts at a time and still use the same fixturing.
What is this fixturing? Well the way this will work is that I'll put a piece of 8" x 21" x 3/4" plate in the vise and drill all the holes and counterbores (for 3 parts), mill out the big center holes, and cut the outside coolant pocket. Then the whole plate gets flipped over and bolted onto a fixture plate; which is then itself clamped in the vise. From here the o-ring grooves are cut, the inside coolant pocket is cut, and the outside shape is cut. The fixture plate allows the parts to be held down without clamping the part itself from the edges, which is what we're trying to cut.
So where is this all going? Well now I can start cutting metal. Then next step is to make the fixture plate and cut out a test part. For about $150 I can get enough material for the fixture plate and 2 sets of test parts. I say 2 because the material comes in fixed lengths and the scrap left over from the fixture is enough for 2 parts. It also allows for an "oh shit" part.I would be willing to do the test parts (including the key) for only the cost of materials. After that it would be $210 per plate and $90 per key. I would prefer to do these in multiples of three but 1 or 2 is possible if need be.
So Angus, if you want to PM (or email) me we can work out where to go from here. I'm actually somewhat surprised that there are as many people interested as there are. I would have been happy with 3 or 4!
C| (Chris)
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
Gentlemen, IT LIVES! muhahaha.
Only one issue though, I forgot to account for the water pipe that runs along the back of the engine. The 90º on the lower left corner hits on it. I made it work by grinding a small amount off around the lower t-stat housing bolt hole. Easily fixed, I'll get some pictures up so cygnus can make the changes.
I checked it against 3 heads, 3 distributors, and 2 thermostat housings (one of which needed to be slightly ground so it wouldn't touch the water pipe). I also checked for binding on a head with nothing but the cam and found nothing. Everything is dead on. Angle on the key is perfect, centering the distributor in it's travel when timed.
Truly excellent work Chris.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
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