I'm very interested. Let me get back to you when I get my model back from this tool...
Forgot the bore size. Looks like the guy i ordered them from just shipped the today. I'm making alluminum flanges that will match up to the carbs and the
head then weld in some aluminum piping, probably around the same size as the bore of the carbs. After the intake is assembled ill probably bead blast it ( makes it looks forged, Kinda).And maybe oxidize it red or black or something.
Ah I see, your practically mounting them directly to the head...how long will your runners be, if any? My set-up has long runners, about 7-8'' long from carb to head...Sounds like a nice project, how much will all this cost?
Haven't decided how long yet, still waiting on the carbs to get here. But the manifold wont cost me anything to make( its all coming out of our scape bins). So just the price of the carbs them selfs. Should have the manifold done within a week after i get the carb in. Should be fun!
I don't really know the correct way of going about this, but the measurements have been triple-checked. Please forgive the quality, the scanner took a dump...
Front:
Rear:
Cross-section:
The 0.62" at top left is actually 0.35", 1.42" below it should be 1.15". 1.1" should be 1.12". 1.21" is incorrect.
use the microsoft image resizer powertoy. its ftw
oh yeah how thick is it?
Got a CNC lathe at your disposal perchance? My shop's insanely tied up with work and I'd love to see some custom SS valves. I should be able to supply full dimensions, too.
Yeah, I know... SS has shot up through the friggin roof recently.
lookin good man, i may be interested in one of those too so dont throw away the specs when your done with him haha :-)
Looking good!
It is 7" wide x 6.35" high and 0.75" thick. I got what I could for the straight lines, but I don't think it's in my abilities to get the radiuses of the arcs... Really the shape doesn't matter all that much. All we really need to worry about is keeping the right angle in the lower left corner and that indentation below C.
A line through C. and D. hits the water pipe dead-center. The water pipe is 0.72" in diameter. An arc with a radius of 0.45", centered on this line should do nicely.
ok here is what i got. the only thing u cant see in the images is the angel for the water port( can kinda make it out in the wireframe)
Did you want O'ring groves cut in the this too. Let me know. other wise i think were almost ready to run it. Also if you wanna see the actual code i can post it too,
Wow, nice work! I think the o-ring grooves would be a good idea. I'm going to find one to fit around the dizzy hole and get back to you with the measurements. Do you have what you need for the D-ring?
did you want the grove .1000 deep? And on both sides?
Oh yeah MSC sells like every o'ring you can think of.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm?KNC-T7L391316886
Last edited by crucial; 11-02-2007 at 11:57 AM.
wait you are making the adpater plate needed to run a 4g dist for an OBD-1 swap? is that what im gathering from this?
0.1" deep on the back side only. A 1 7/16" ID x 1 11/16" OD x 1/8" thick o-ring will do the trick. Let's do the same around the dizzy hole as the water jacket, 0.09" lip and 0.15" groove.
Any suggestions on o-ring material?
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVS...00000034281040
About the o'rings i found this info on Viton
"VitonŽ fluoroelastomer is the most specified fluoroelastomer, well known for its excellent (400°F/200°C) heat resistance. VitonŽ offers excellent resistance to aggressive fuels and chemicals and has worldwide ISO 9000 and ISO/TS 16949 registration."
MSC sells a pack of 50 for $30.16
Kinda pricey when you look and the neoprene, silicone, epdm and buna-n.
Main thing to look for is heat and chemical resistance.
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