I have a solid hub clutch from clutch net and which is better sprung or solid i got the solid because it was cheaper and everything is stage 1 will it make a diff in engagment or sum let me kno u guess i will be getting a lightweight flywheel soon if i don't like it i'll get a sprung loaded one later.
Sprung is better for street use. The sprung hub more forgiving and the engagement won't be as harsh as a solid hub.
Dead on, Eric. Unsprung disks are cheaper because they cost less to build. They're harder on your axles, transmission, and crankshaft. If you have a weak point in your drivetrain, an unsprung hub will make it show its teeth.
dame thanx enyway i guess i'll have to deal with it
yeah and that usually will result in a blown CV joint or spider gears on the road and a hole in you gearbocks. (i know from experience)
i'd stick with the sprung center clutch eh
As the others say, they arent as easy on drive line parts.
Great on the track,but not much else
If you want a gd clutch try either an exedy racing or an AP racing clutch.
I run an exedy item and its brilliant
i've slipped ot until it smells bad and it didnt hurt it at all
smooth engagment and can handle being dumped.
does anyone know the presureplate numbers on the excedy...i have one but i want something that will clamp my power and not slip when i drop the clutch.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Do you have a stock replacment or a stage#? I know stage 1 has 30% more holding power than stock. I havent heard really anything bad about Exedy.
i heard clutchnet was the best so will it tear my trans up fast or slow i have an extra trans but i dont wanna wait for anouther clutch to come in my baby been sitting up for two months i feel sorry for her
have heard same bout the exedy item
even the stock replacement exedy is better than the honda item
if you want to get real stupid, you could go for an os giken multi plate jobby
you'll break every thing else before the it goes
Well the stock disk on original Honda one is pretty strong but i'd be tempted to put the solid one in and see what it's like if it's not ceramic night not be too grabby just have to be real gently with the clutch is all. I've got a solid in mine but it's for track and drag use plus was desperate to use it as the solid disk one is the only one that would fit my stock lightened flywheel the sprung hub one from clutchnet which is well meaty needed the inside of the flywheel machining out to fit without rubbing on the inside of the plate. Not sure if you'll have the same issue (mines a 2nd Gend prelude carb smaller flywheel) But don't buy anything else either get clutchnet ally flywheel or get your flywheel off and try out the sprung clutchnet disk and see if it fits if it doesn't then have your stock flywheel machined lighter and also mod it to fit the clutchnet disk.
Don't waste money on any other clutch kits or disks stick with clutchnet they are the tits for the money and you won't buy any better period and they'll out last anything else on your car maybe even you)
how do the solid feel in urs did u break enything yet how does it grab
Don't know yet waiting to drop engine back in still got a head to finish before it goes anywhere!!
well that helps alot do yall think if i just baby it until i race will it be ok.
something with a heavy duty or xtra heavy duty pressure plate and a sprung friction plate is how i'd go
still has a nice progressive engagement and will hold heaps of power
there is a company called center force that do really nice clutches
they feel nice and light with a progressive take up with a good heavy pressure plate
hold heaps of power and feel good for the street
just put one in a toyota v6 4wd ute
i ran it in
i could dial up 5k rpm, dump the clutch and it just took off
no slip, just grip
you'd prob break a drive shaft before the clutch
only clutch i would deal with is the clutchnet stuff, excedy(OEM) and honda...anything else might be ok but then fails.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I have an OEM replacement Exedy in my car with roughly 10,000 miles on it. It grabs great, it's smooth, no problems what so ever. I would recommend using this clutch. I am pretty sure it would be fine for you Messy, but if you are going to have more power you would need to upgrade, but i am sure it can handle the power.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
as said earlier in the thread, i run an exedy clutchlike russian kid and its great
nice take up and it takes abuse when you feel like it
well should it be good if i baby it until i race or what
coop i have a sprung 6puck and the enguagement is harsh as fuck.there is no babying it. the clutch is either in or out and that is it. be sure to let the car infront of you (at a stop light) get a head start.
ok how is yours working out
it's working out fine.the motor mounts are getting wore out already, time for solids.lol
the clutch is fine for racing but it kinda sucks for street use.
so its not recommended to get a stage 3 red PP on a excedy sprung hub?
i want something to grab quick but it still needs to be daily driven.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i never really had a problem with the 6puck sprung, its a little harsh but not terrible. I had a 3 puck unsprung and that fucker was VIOLENT. I had an exedy and it was okay for a stock type replacement but it is just that, dont even think of using it for even a semi performance application
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
+1 right there with you on that.Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
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