dont redesign it, it looks really good, you should be able to put down a serious amount of power with it. Props to you for doing somthing differnent
dont redesign it, it looks really good, you should be able to put down a serious amount of power with it. Props to you for doing somthing differnent
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I don't know if you were trying to make me feel guilty, but damn.. I post and then the pics disappear and now it's going to be redesigned? Feel free to redesign it if you want, I always go through so many designs of everything I build, I even rewrite almost every word in every sentence I post, so..it'll just end up better anyway. My only contribution to this isn't a critique of the design, just a suggestion on the materials used. I think with the amount of effort that goes into building one of these, (which far exceeds the cost of materials, in my book) you might as well use stainless, at least 304.Originally Posted by 89turbo'ed
Last edited by Accordtheory; 11-17-2007 at 02:19 PM.
Same for you..what's up with the mild steel when you can get stainless for hardly any more? Do you guys realize how bad you'd get flamed on h-t if you posted up a mild steel manifold? Those guys are all full-race nutswingers, but still.
alright guy's I decided to stay with the original.
the reason i was backing out was because i was unsure of the looks of it.
but the hell with it i built it for me, not mass production.i'll get the pics up in a couple hours.
the reason i am going mild steel is because 80%(unsure of actual percentage) of those nut swingers are having to reweld those topmounts.
i'd put a lifetime warranty on my steel.
when i had my car in the dumped in weeds and hit a speed bump it would twist and tear the down pipe and it wouldn't affect the manifold one bit.i guess i would rather repair or replace the down pipe.
my intentions were not to make anyone feel guilty.
here ya go.
Man F the Ht nutswingers! LOL
While the stainless are nice to look at they leave little room for error as far as the welding goes. Not to mention depending what type of stainless you use it'll be more prone to cracking. More than mild steel anyway.
I never had any problems with cracking and warping on my last mild one, plus i went with mild flanges so i figured might as well make the whole thing mild. Plus mild is easier to work with than stainless, the only advantage here to the stainless is that it doesnt corrode like mild does... but it does expand a shit ton more and warps/cracks a little easier than the mild seems to. BTW i dont really care what any HT full race sackriders have to say about mild steel manis. Most of those guys dont make their own shit anyway
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Most of the guys don't, but you sure can't sell anything with mild steel runners on h-t. Yet almost all of them have mild flanges. I'll be making a couple manifolds out of 304 with mild flanges in the next couple weeks, I'll post them up on here at some point.
fuck ht anyway, there are a handful of legit performance guys but most of them are jdm ricers with sand in their vaginas
3geez+homemadeturbo>ht
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I think h-t it is by far the best automotive tech forum on the internet, period. I spend most of my time in the forced induction and fabrication sections, that is where I've found the most educated people to be. While there are a lot of ignorant, opinionated morons on h-t who will never fully understand what they're attempting to modify, and yet who feel free to tell others and argue with people like me about it, there is still no other forum that attracts so many upper level people in the business, and so many successful people who compete with their products. You have people representing almost every major manufacturer, from full race to golden eagle to skunk2 to peakboost, etc, etc, etc, to the shops that actually build the high level cars, to the tuners who tune them. The dude I just bought flanges from (SLS) I found on h-t, and when I was looking for a local chassis dyno, I recognized his name next to one of the top ten hp cars on dynotuneusa.com, the only dyno in th entire state of SD. (Presenting..the world, as shrunk by honda-tech) You have so many people who can afford to dyno test over and over again that building a 600whp honda is just a basic recipe these days. I can regurgitate exactly how to do that down to almost every single component in a few minutes, thanks to h-t. If you want to learn anything, just ask on there. You just have to know how to sift through the bs replies, because they'll be there, but so will the legit ones. I've learned So much on there, it's ridiculous. Just yesterday I learned wtf a "gas lens" is for a tig torch. That should help me with the manifolds a little. A lot of people hate on h-t because they can't compete with the money being spent on there, but who cares. I just go there with the attitude of a scientist, I'm there to learn and contribute what I can.
I even have a question right now to ask on h-t, wtf tig filler rods should I use to weld 304, 309 or 308? It better be 309, because I just bought 10lbs of that shit..
lol
I'll have to agree with what you said. I also poke around in the fab and fi sections as well.
Too bad there's like 25 knowitalls and idiots to every 1 that's a good.
The Bseries motors have been tried with so many setups with good documentation on HT that its basicly cookie cutter setups now. Anyone with a bseries can just put something together and be well informed enough to know how much HP to expect with X manifold and X turbo.
The old A20 needs this type of documentation. That's why its great that you put the pictures back up 89turbod. We all need to do our parts and share info to see if we can keep a good database on turbocharged A20 engines and what they can and can't do on what turbos etc.
i can agree with that... There is some good info in FI and Fab sections but for actual accord knowledge youre better off here than ht
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Shit, You guys sure are into your turbos, At least theres ppl here that can teach me when i have a job and rebuilt my b20a
Well, that depends on what you want to know. Legend master helped me out a few times, but I'd say for the most part on here, when I've had a question, I've had to figure it out myself, and then ended up posting about it later. For instance, even though legend posted up about the linkage and axles, I still ended up figuring it out myself anyway, and doing my own thing. That's not intended as criticism at all of this forum or anyone on it, it's just how it is. Right now I want to know if anyone has actually removed their front coil spring and compressed the suspension to see how much they can extend the top hat for the strut before the uca hits the tower, so I know how much to extend the top hats on my car. I already know I'm going to have to do this myself, and I'm only hoping to get my car operational again by this spring. Vector didn't respond to my post, and neither did legend master, so..
Anyway, sorry for getting so off topic, 89turboed, and good luck with your setup. Hopefully the manifold doesn't warp or set your engine compartment on fire, like with my car. (+ another 1 for stainless..lower thermal conductivity). The amount of heat that will come off your manifold will be somewhat of a challenge to deal with. You'll have to get creative with venting or heat shielding, or both. An evo style hood vent would get my vote as far as a good solution.
go flatrate, put some washers under the hood hinges, itll raise the back of the hood a little bit and itll keep your temps down. I didnt have that much trouble with my last mild manifold with underhood temps, nor did i relocate the ps high pressure line that comes right in front of the engine to the pump. If you do have problems, make a heat shield like accordtheory mentioned but i would advise against header wrap, unless you like the smell of burnt nachos and cracked manifolds
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Yeah, header wrap is somewhat of an inaccurate name, you can't actually wrap headers with it. (You can, but they won't last). As far as opening your hood in the back, you can also just remove the weatherstrip in that area too. However, according to a few things I've read about this, the base of the windshield is a high pressure area, (that's how cowl induction works, it's no joke) and air will flow in through there and down through your engine compartment to the ground, reducing the temp of the compartment. However, it seems to me like doing this would also reduce the pressure differential between the engine compartment and the front of the radiator, reducing the flow across it. (and also not flowing air over the manifold) That is why I like the hood vent over the manifold better, supposedly that is a lower pressure area, and actually pulls air up and out through the radiator and past the manifold.
If anyone knows anything about this, or has seen a different result, speak up..
i see what you guy's are saying about the heat issues,and i will take everything under advisement. i want to keep the car as stock looking as possible though. i am thinking the evo style hood is out. the cowl induction hood would look alot better as long as it wasnt over done,and with maybe a vent on the front edge pushing air through the rear opening.idk.
Last edited by 89T; 11-22-2007 at 05:42 PM.
i dont think youre gonna have THAT much problem with underhood temps really, just make sure you have adequate clearance from anything flammable around the header
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
there isn't going to be anything around the header..I am in the planning stages of my coupe being a step away from a full-race car. meaning a full wire tuck, and the removal of everything that doesn't hold the motor or need to be wired to the management.the coupe will also recive a 8 or 10 point roll cage and sub-frame connectors.
the motor is going to be pulled from the sedan and installed into the coupe. The coupe motor wiill be rebuilt turbo charged and installed into the sedan with an obd1 conversion. both will be converted to e-85 fuel.
both will have to be dynoed so the sedan will be tuned for 15psi and the coupe will recive 25-35psi.
this isn't going to be "I'll have it done in a month" type project so anything some of you can contribute planning wise I would appreciate.
i am alittle off topic here but you can post sugestions in my build thread.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...603#post825603
yeah youll notice the cage will stiffen the car greatly so youre not gonna really need any subframe connectors but i cant wait to see results here. This is def one of the better accord builds ive seen ever
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
thanks! i am kinda at a loss for words...
i would like to say that i have alote of respect for you, accordtheory, bobbafett, 88turboaccord, ericdx, johnny-o,robT, and a hand full of other members including sean. You guy's set the foundation for all of the high performance accords on this site.to our resident research guru babafett.
before my first post i spent months researching all of you're turbo threads and individual posts, sohere's to the guy's that go unnoticed.
Wow dude! That coupe is going to killer when its done! I am going to have to swing by there to see this in progress. You will be the only member on here with two turbo 3gee accords
yes sir.when i get going on it i'll give you a call. i have to start buying up more parts.
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