fuel problem
well i checked the online manual and when i changed the tank i didn't put the two-way valve back on cause i broke it taking it off.the other tank didn't have one .could this be causing my car to sputter and shake.do i need to get one to put on,i just put the hoses together with hose connector.
yes it could, what was the problem you were addressing when you took out the fuel tank?
tank was leaking so thats why i changed it ,but the valve was no good so bypassed it along with vent hoses.don't know if this is causing car to sputter and die or not.thought it might be harness to tank cause when it acted up and i hit a bump it started working fine again.
^^ yep very well could be, you should fix that immediatley, if you have a loose connection there it will caue the circuit to be hot with resistance... melts connectors and bulkhead junctions. You will foreever be chasing fuel pump voltage drop issues. May as well be driving a gm product then... they are notorious for that.
The two way valve, I dont have the picture of it right up but was it mounted on the tank, thus is there a third port ? otherwise it would be a check valve or a joint fitting. If it was a check valve then you may be issues similar to vapor lock, unless it was just the rollover valve.
How did the tank get a hole?
you need that two way valve, it relieves pressure on the tank,this tank does not have a vented gas cap.
yea it was rusted through on top half of tank. yes the valve was monted on top of tank by pump,the hose goes up to the charchoal cannister but i don't have one did the vachumn removal.
well there has to be a place for the tank to vent so to speak
I have been reading that some members have a big swoosh when they open the filler cap, I have that issue too. Someone mentioned that the sock filter can get restricted and changing that out solved the swoosh. I had it even before the canister removal.
two things happening here, the emmisions part needs to vent the gas tank into the cannister, as well as vent the carb bowl..the tank definately needs to vent or it will swell with temp increases.
import racer, not sure of your issue since if you had a hole to begin with your car shouldnt run any different according to logic. To elimate the fuel tank, you need to check to see if you are losing fuel pressure or have too much, check the float level too.
well idid the vacumn removal last fall and just plug the vent line in the engine bay.had no problem till i changd gas tank.the way it acts is like i have no fuel pessure.when it acts up it sputters and bucks than stops,when i try to start it while pumping the gas it sometimes starts.but then it wouldn't and had to be towed ,had no power at pump with key on.thats when i moved the pump harness around and tryed it and it started thats why i think its the harness.what do you think.
from what you have said in this and the other threads, yep you probably should fix that connection before it starts more problems elsewhere. If you run it that way long, you would certainley damage the relay if nothing else.
I'm not gonna drive it till its fixed,going to the junk yard on monday to get harness and two-way valve.
well got two-way valve and harness today at the j/y,its off a hatch but that shouldn't matter.gonna put them on tomorrow, gonna try to do it w/o dropping tank if i can.
you really need to keep the charcol canister working, if you did a vaccume removal all you need to do is hook up the evaporative system back up. i don't know why people remove it,it's pretty trouble free,and the way the tank venting is designed,you really need it. i'm even keeping it on the dual carb project,to prevent problems with the tank venting.
so i changed harness on tank and put a two-way valve back on today.took it for a drive,so far so good.i didn't hook up the three small vacumn lines to the tank because i didn't want to drrop it down all the way,had half a tank of gas in it and this tank has no drain plug like my old one.will this affect anything with 3 hoses not hooked up.
well car acted up again today again,thi thing is driving me crazy.so i took fuel line off and rolled it and no gas .checked power to fuel pump and no power.what the hell is wrong with this thing.does the computer under the seat have anything to do with the power to the pump.can anybody help me!
now it sounds like the main relay starting to go bad. From what I understand you can repair those if you have some electronic and soldering skills.
but im carbed do i have a main relay?
not the same, no power to fuel pump, how about ground side? you are going to need to back track the circuit.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ower+fuel+pump
read this one^^
Last edited by 2oodoor; 11-08-2007 at 12:31 PM.
when i converted from efi back to carb (yes, silly i know) i just ran a 12v ignition wire to the fuel pump that was on when the ley was on lol.
that makes it work, but it is not a good thing to do long term, the fuel pump uses a lot of amperage like fog lights or say stereo amps.. well amps have a control circuit internal relays but yes you need a relay on that circuit to be safe and not burn up ign switches or fuse blocks.Originally Posted by wohdog
can i bypass the fuel shut-off relay to see if thats the problem,how do i do that.
do a search on the forum here, then click advanced search... type in combinations of the words, fuel shut off fuel relay etc.. and go click the box that says search thread titles (not thread content) I did that earlier and saw a thread that told the wires you need to jump.
I would do a test on the fuel cut off relay located under the dash drivers side too the left. I also have fuel issues mine cuts off the first time I start it then the second time it will start. Sorta like it runs whats in the carb dry. Then on the restart it primes it and runs fine.
did advanced search but couldn't find how to jump the relay.
I can't remember the terminal numbers, but if you pop off the end plate, and slide the circuit board out of the plastic case, it's labeled. you want to jump the + terminal to the pump terminal. it says which are which on the board. actually if you plug the board back in without the case,it'll be much eaisier to jump the terminals.
thanks i'll try that, going to the j/y to get another pump and fuel cut-off relay to try.
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