Holley 5200, or maybe another model?

[2ndGenGuy]

Got the carb on the car. Had to mod the adapter plate a bit for the linkage to clear. Best to run these carbs with a spacer I think. I'm going to try to order one tonight or tomorrow. I've got a THICK gasket from one of the rebuild kits on top of a plastic spacer that came with the original Weber DGEV kit for the 2g Accord.

Bummer is the throttle shafts are leaking quite badly and the carb is running REALLY lean. It runs well enough to keep the car running so I can move it, but you can hear it knocking. Also it won't run without the choke plates closed, due I'm guessing, to all the air getting in.

So I was wondering where you might recommend I pick up new throttle shaft bushings and a carb spacer? Google seems to be rather unhelpful on this topic. I suppose I can call a couple local carb shops and see what they say. Also do you know any places to pick up a cheap air filter for the 5200? I might just mod something I find at the junk yard...

Crap... I still gotta measure that gasket for ya.

[2oodoor]

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive...hp/f-1177.html
lots of posts on webers here, there is a guy in Italy that is a great seller. I will copy that here in a little while.
I have read that the Holley bushings are not servicable in later models, I can't confirm that though. There is bearing kit for the weber that would work if the holley shaft housing is drilled... I think.

[2ndGenGuy]

I've seen those bearing kits. Links I saw go to weberjets.com which is now some defunct site because it looks like they forgot to renew their domain name... I'm sure I can find more of them.

I'm not entirely sure if these are replaceable or not. But when I had the linkage off, I could see what looked like brass bushings around the throttle shafts. There was all kinds of fuel coming out from around them. Guess I'll have to check again tonight.

[2ndGenGuy]

Well I ordered a 1/2 inch spacer / carb insulator and a bunch of gaskets from IPD down in Portland. That should keep me from having any weird leaks at the base of the carb. Calling Pierce Manifolds tomorrow. Looks like they have a tool to ream the throttle shafts out to 8.5mm for oversize bushings. So I'm going to see if they sell the bushings as well. Logic would assume so, but they don't show them on their website.

Also, sorry roodoo. I keep forgetting to do this stuff, but here are your measurements. Hope it's not too little too late. I think that at least one of these are the measurements you were looking for.


This is measuring the space between the holes.


This I measured from hole to hole.


And this measurement is for those other two holes on the top of the photo. I used the inside measuring part.

All the measurements are in inches. Hope one of those are what you're looking for.

[Oldblueaccord]

Its really common on used carbs for the shaft bushings to be worn. If you measure the shaft you might be able to find some tubing thats close and "rebush" the carb. But it will take some tricky redrilling of the original bushings and a carb disassembly. I'm pretty sure Holley does this service as well.

I'd check you float level if it won't run with the choke off.


wp

EDIT well there in your state
http://www.carburetion.com/bushings.htm

[2oodoor]

Thanks
No I still have not finished the carb yet, it has a brass float which I would like to keep but there is a place on one of the seams and I hear something rattling inside it. It may or may not be damaged.
You say gas is coming out badly from your throttle shaft, that sounds like a float level issue or a low vaccuum making the power valve add gas from the bowl down the venturi.
Did the opel archive page show up for you? there are lots and lots of good questions answered in there. I have found more info on DGV family carbs there than anywhere, well except for here http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23153
they may not pertain to Honda but a lot of DGV carb dialogue takes place.
I am probably going to order a 38/38 next month. I am going to try one more time to find one in the JY first though.

[2ndGenGuy]

Well when it was leaking gas out the throttle shaft, I actually had the carb up on the bench and was trying to get the linkage hooked back up to it. The float bowl was damn near empty by the time I had it over to the bench...

I did take the top hat off anyways, and measured and set the float levels according to the 5200 diagram that came with the rebuild kit. Initially, it was running for a few seconds and then dying off, which is why I checked the float level. Turns out the passage where the fuel was going into the float bowl from the fuel line was clogged. After I unclogged it, it seemed to run fine, but still with that choke issue.

I'm wondering now if the problem isn't the fuel pressure... I've got a shitty Schucks fuel pressure regulator in front of a nice Holley red fuel pump... But my butane bottle still tells me there's a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft, so I know for sure I need to fix that first.

Thanks for the link to the bushings, oldblueaccord. I'll have to give them a call and see if I can get them to send me bushings. Looks like they wanna do it in house, since that's where they make some money. I ordered a couple off of eBay and we'll see what comes of those.

I did check out that Opel page. It was really awesome. Just reading through the posts was pretty sweet. It's definitely in my bookmarks now.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll keep you updated.

[2oodoor]

you did take the internal filter and clean it, the one that is inside the big nut thing by the inlet, right?
You can have some vacuum sucking at the shafts some and still be ok, not perfect but ok.

[Oldblueaccord]

I'm thinking a guy on moparts.com did this himself with either commonly found brass tubing or it might have been brake line. I can't really remember.

I thought there services were a little pricey my self but they have the rods for my Quadrajet



wp

[2ndGenGuy]

I don't have the internal filter anymore. Well, it was never in there. I figured why bother, since there is already 2 filters in the fuel system.

The throttle shaft seems to be leaking badly enough that the idle mixture adjust screw doesn't do anything at all. I suppose it could be leaking around my insulator gasket and 1/4 inch phenolic spacer too, but that will be solved soon enough.

I thought that was a bit spendy too. But I'm sure it's not bad considering the labor to do it. If they're not making $60/hr, they're losing money, I'm sure.

Not really worth it to me for this carb though, especially considering Clifford Performance sells rebuilt, and tested 5200's for about $60.

[2ndGenGuy]

So I got my carb spacer from iPD. Looks like its going to work pretty sweet. It's just the right height to clear the carb linkage from the adapter plate.




Here's the throttle shaft. You can see the brass bushing in there. So once I get the throttle shafts out, I'll try to match them up to something. I bought a couple nylon Weber throttle shafts off eBay for dirt cheap, but I don't know if they'll work...



How do you recommend I remove these caps like this? This is at the other end of the primary throttle shaft. There's also one of these where I think the primary main jet is too.



Also, I can't get these throttle plate screws out. I used a ton of penetrating lube on them too. Now that I think about it, I think those might be peened to prevent them from backing out and falling into your intake... hmmm.



They come out nicely part way then stop coming out. I sat and worked them back and forth for about an hour and made progress but never got any of them completely out... Guess I'll hit the back side of them with the grinder and try again tomorrow...

[2oodoor]

yes, they are peened, hopefully the threads,,.. well you are getting into code 3 territory now I have this DGV as an example to look at for you and it does not have caps. do you have a weber book, it has a process i think on how to get those shafts out unscathed, if you bend them it's all over.
The plug, hrmmm if you have all the hardware off the linkage side and the butterflys are out you may be able to give it a gentle nudge to get it started. if you can get the shaft to back out the linkage side you will be ok,you could mini drill and slide hammer it out. It may not be dooable and you can't remove any material from that area for obviious reasons.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, I have two Weber books. Once has some OK info on the DGV carbs, and the other kinda just skips past it and is all about the racing carbs (DCOEs, IDAs, etc). I'll dig into those some more tonight. I'm still waiting on those bushings to come in. Damn slow eBayers. :-/

[2oodoor]

my webers do not have those caps on the throttle shaft ends, well the secondary has a pin on the shaft so I guess it comes out only one direction., the primary has the accelerator pump arm on it.

[2ndGenGuy]

That cap is only on the secondary shaft. There's another cap just like it covering one of the main jets. Not sure where the other main jet is...

The primary shaft on mine has an arm for the accelerator pump as well.

[2ndGenGuy]

Damnit there are no bushings on the secondary shaft at all. Still want to try putting bushings in to see if I can't repair the leak. I'd hate to think that all of these 5200s have to go to waste because of this awful design flaw. Good news is that the wear doesn't appear to be on the shafts themselves but actually on the throttle body. More updates soon.