no
looks like the head gasket blew like a mutha dood
between 3-4 AND 1-2 and you got a free steam blasting of your pistions in the process !
The chilton books ARE very vague and generic, if you have a good public library, go check out and see if they have a good manual. Most citys I have been in do have good automotive books in the library.
LISTEN to the advice you are getting here, labeledsktr and ddude2uc, Forrest and Lost....KNOW and have good experience I will lurk, too many cooks in the kitchen spoils the soup.
yea i checked out my lilbray they just had the chilltons that i allready have lol
how do i get that pully off? if turn it wont the whole pully just turn lol
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
i used a screw driver down in the timeing light hole to keep the crank from turning... BUT when i was finsihing up the person that was holding it (so it wouldnt slide down in) said they had taken out, i cranked the car over and BAM it snaped off in there..... be sure to do this gently and use a nice thick heavy duty driver... also dont bounce on the socket as your trying to looosen it. nice steady pull...it helps to have someone hold the driver so it doesnt get loose and you end up on your ass from pulling.... should take about 35-50 lbs to get that fucker off
Also, i heated mine up with a torch before hitting it with an impact gun, worked like a charm!
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
well i have not goten anything else done latey since im sick
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Your Slack. Hurry up it should be done allready. lol
why do you need to remove the lower cam cover??
that head gasket looks random.. why is there 3 layers to it?
before you go and get a new gasket and install it PLEASE ask someone how to check the head for warpage. Thats the usual problem that happens to these a20a2s
yeah its a A20A2 :P
and yea i want to check the head for warpage i need to get some tools :P
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
dam, stop STOP
it is an aluminum head, you already know it ran hot, Of COURSE have it checked and resurfaced. It looks like it blew in two places so, yep the head may be warped or worse. The same factoid thanks to A18 is true for ANY aluminum head, iron block engine.. they can just blow for no obvious reason and when they do and you keep running them, they run hot... so running hot may not always be the exact reason WHY the gasket gave in but it may be the reason it then ran hot so that the head may be wavy and a head bolt or two may seem loose coming out.
heres exactly what you need
Feeler gauge
precision straight edge
then go by the rules of your hynes or chilton (should be in chilton i think) and you test left to right top to bottom corner, bottom to top corner and there might be some others check the book but it will look like this, and remember you want the head clean and clear of old head gasket and oils
im no up to date on tool costs... but your not looking at OMG expensive tools
I dont think the yota head will work though....na
j/k sktr
hey can he just go to home depot and get a lil piece of aluminum or stainless 2" stock bar to use for a streight edge?
hold it in the X check patterns you gave, and use a match book or some thick photo printer paper or "ghetto plastiguage" to drag under the suspected areas. I usually just get down and look to see light under the streight edge, the warped areas show right up. I couldnt explain to someone else how to do that though..
sorry, im back to lurking now....
Last edited by 2oodoor; 01-14-2008 at 04:24 PM.
i wouldnt just use stock bar as a straight edge... just incase there are inperfections. the head has to be checked in the decimal mm range, the paper trick works.. but unless you know the thickness of the paper... he couldnt ever figure out how badly warped it it (could be the difrence of the head only needing a re-surface or the head being a large paper weight) i would recomend buy the straight edge and feeler gauge... i dont think they could be above 35 bucks together and there usefull tools to have. hell i would send you a feeler gauge but i seem to have left mine in maine when i left half me tools to drive to florida..
Bar stock is not good enough. You need a precision straight edge that is accurate to .001" or better. Probably $50 minimum. You might as well just have it checked by a shop. If it's not warped they may not even charge you for the inspection.
C|
i guess i could make him a piece of aluminum bar stock that is milled accurate, but i can't afford to keep mailing this stuff out,not that i mind doing it.
You can get a straight edge for about $50 after shipping on ebay. It's milled to .001 accuracy . (straight edge was a piece of the 'box of goodies' that arrived today)
.
cah if i get a chance i'll mill you one. i can mill something withing a thousanth i think
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