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Thread: Rough Idle/Intake manifold

  1. #1
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    Question Rough Idle/Intake manifold

    I recently had the Ontario clean air test done and they told me the intake manifold is leaking. The car idles roughly and seems to be gradually getting worse. Sometimes as the engine warms up it races up to 3500 rpm and wont drop to normal for about 10 minutes. Otherwise it runs good.

    Is there a vacume test I can do to verify this?

    Is taking off the intake pretty straight forward?

    Should I remove the carb first..I know..I have to keep it upright!

    Do the intake manifold studs tend to break?

    Frank
    89AccordLXcarb
    Frank
    89 Accord LX / Carb



  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    well you have to keep the float needle from falling out of the float valve. when you flip the carb the needle tends to come out. otherwise you can still turn the carb upside down if you needed to.
    - llia


  3. #3
    LXi User BoredRec's Avatar
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    have fun if you do try to take off the intake manifold. Took me like 2 hours, and that's with a lift and air tools.
    1988 Accord LXi Sedan
    Custom Cold Air Intake -- Custom Exhaust -- Neuspeed Springs -- ACT Stage II Clutch

    Alpine 9815 -- MTX 2300X -- 2 JL 10W3V2's

  4. #4
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    Re: Rough Idle/Intake manifold

    Originally posted by FrankD
    I recently had the Ontario clean air test done and they told me the intake manifold is leaking.
    Just curios, how did they figure out that (a leak)? Do u know where the leak is exactly ? Cause u may take off the manifold just to discover that the problem is somewhere else..

  5. #5
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    A service tech at a local garage told me the intake manifold was leaking after he performed a vacume test. He would not give me any more details so I'm not really sure if the rough idle could be caused by something else. I was hoping some members could describe symptoms of a leaking intake gasket. I get rough idle, kind of jittery while coasting below 50mph, engine racing when not fully warmed up.
    Frank
    Frank
    89 Accord LX / Carb

  6. #6

    carotman's Avatar
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    just spray Carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket where it mates with the engine.

    if the engine reacts, you have a leak

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
    3geez member since July 12 2000

    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  7. #7

    A20A1's Avatar
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    thats silly... a manifold vacuum leak doesn't have to be from the manifold... it could be from any of the vacuum lines tapped into the manifold.
    - llia


  8. #8
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    OK ! Now were getting somewhere! So spraying around the gasket should at least give me an indication if the gasket itself is the problem.
    Frank
    89 Accord LX / Carb

  9. #9
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    OK I've got the air cleaner off and I'm checking all the hoses and diaphrams etc...There seems to be one thats seized. Its on the front and the plunger goes to a link on the left bottom of the carb. The vacume line goes to a T which splits off to a coolant temp sensor near thermostat and to carb. I can only move the plunger back and forth about 2mm. Its in the off state now. The other diaphrams move about 1cm. Anyone know what this diaphrams' for.
    Frank
    89 Accord LX / Carb

  10. #10

    A20A1's Avatar
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    thats the vacuum secondary... don't break the diaphragm trying to move the plunger? or are you using a hand vacuum pump?
    - llia


  11. #11

    A20A1's Avatar
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    the secondary is locked by the primary throttle linkage... if you open the primary barrel by pressing the gas pedal then you can move the diaphragm arm freely
    Last edited by A20A1; 09-20-2002 at 05:22 PM.
    - llia


  12. #12
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    Thanks Carotman for carb cleaner spray trick...you're my hero! It's amazing how 3 different mechanics could not figure this out. Scarry but true.
    Frank
    89 Accord LX / Carb

  13. #13


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    "have fun if you do try to take off the intake manifold. Took me like 2 hours, and that's with a lift and air tools."

    I got mine off in like 2 hours. I have no lift or air tools. I used a 3/8 in drive ratchet with a long extention and one of those cool adjustable/universal joint things that lets you hold the ratchet at an angle. It was difficult to do, though. Seems like this thing is a bear to remove whether you go at it from above or below.
    Mike Clark

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