im not sure whats going on, but for some reason my car doesnt want to start. its a freshly rebuilt motor, so i dont know whats wrong.
its oil system has been primed. and im getting fuel pressure. its throwing out code 6 for the ECT which is plugged in, but probably worn out. other then that, im basically alone, and i cant get the car started, so i cant check for spark on my own.
well, i havent checked for spark yet, but im going out right now to get a push button starter for my car so i can crank it from the outside.
also, ive noticed that when i run my fingers through the exhaust runners, i dont smell fuel. does anyone know what might cause my injectors to not fire? i mean, they were working perfectly fine before when i had my accord running.
im gonna save u whatever it costs to buy a push button.. all you need to do to get the starter to run, if it actually works that is, is take a wire like 18 gauge or something insignificant and short the positive terminal of the battery with the terminal at the starter that the thin wire is plugged onto.. i had to start my car like this for a week due to my ignition not turning over my engine because of a ground in the black+white wire circuit
cops like pulling me over, or does my car actually look this bad?
i just bought it, and paid like $5 for it. kinda worth it cause my hands arent in there all the time
as far as my car starting goes, im getting fuel pressure and spark, but still no fuel for some reason. can anyone give me some insight as to works wrong?
you coulda saved the five duckies... all you need to do is take the small wire out of the plug on the starer... put in a piece of scrap wire long enough to reach the battery. Turn the ign key to on/run (not start) and just touch the scrap wire to the positve post of the battery to enguage the starter.
can you get it to run by spraying some carb cleaner or something volitile into the throttle body? if it trys to crank then, you are not getting fuel to the rail or the injectors are not being driven by ECU. My guess anyway.
ill try the carb cleaner thing probably tomorrow.
im not sure what is wrong, but im guessing that its possibly the sensors in the distributor that are bad. TDC/CYL sensor are in there, and if one of those are bad, its quite possible that it wont work. my fuel rail is getting fuel pressure though. at first i thought it got pinched somewhere, and now that i got a new fuel line from an integra, i had modified it to for the accord by adding length from my last fuel line. its getting much less pressure now though(40psi instead of 60psi) which made me think that it got kinked somewhere in the line.
i know this would prolly sound silly, but is the firing order right? (1-3-4-2) i remember when i first put my engine in, spent all day trynna get it going, and it had spark and fuel, but wouldnt run, i had the leads around all wrong
well as you posted in your other thread about it mayby being the dizzy could be it... the dizzy isnt sending signal to the injectors.... i dont know anything about intake many swaps.... mayby a FPR would be good for that setup??.. i dont think a 20 psi drop would make the car not start though i just think it wouldnt run very well... and be kinda slugish...
P.S. you get your box?
ya, good stuff man, didnt expect it that fast.Originally Posted by labeledsk8r
i am quite sure i put them in properly as the distributor cap has numbers on it as well
just tested the distributor according to the haynes manual, and the resistance between both the sensors checked out fine. anyone else have any ideas?
just tested the resistor box out and it tests good.
seems like im ruling out everything one at a time here and everything seems to be working well within specs, yet im still not getting fuel in the cylinders.
Are you getting fuel to the fuel rail at all? If so are the injectors working properly?
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
im getting fuel to the rails and in the lines and everything. the injectors are not firing for some reason. the distributor sensors are within specs, along with the resistor box.
Main Relay working correctly? Its in the fuel and spark loop.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
where is it and how do i check it out? its getting spark and fuel pressure, but nothing is coming out of the injectors. and the injector fuse isnt blown or anything.
just changed the ECU out, and still not starting. anyone have any idea what is wrong here? its not getting any fuel for some reason. and for some reason, i keep getting a code 6 even after i changed out the sensor to 2 other ones i had lying around that were working before i took the motor out of service.
Last edited by newaccorddriver; 01-19-2008 at 12:49 PM.
Mabey it's a bad ground too the injector circuit.
i thought it was at first, but apparently its not since i grounded it to the valve cover ground, and from there i made a new ground and hooked it up to the chassis. i used a multimeter and i was getting power from the injector fuse in the engine bay.
whats weird is its constantly throwing out a code 6, and when i decided to unplug the MAP sensor, its still throwing out a code 6. so apparently it doesnt want to throw out multiple codes at once?
So, the code 6 is the map sensor or ?
code 6 is the coolant temperature sensor, which i tried 2 others, and it still gave out that code
Maybe theres a break in the wire somewhere?
Still don't know how it would cause the car not to start
2004-2011?
couple quick checks....make sure you have ground at pins #9 and 10 in the 17 pin white connector for the ECM....those are injector grounds...also see if you have reference voltage at the map, baro,intake air temp,and throttle position sensor....they are all on the same circuit coming from the ecm should be about 5 volts....those are pin #34 on the 16 pin black connector at the ecm
first off, why would there only be 3 grounds if theres 4 injectors, and isnt there supposed to be a ground for the injectors on the harness? i mean, doesnt the ECU trigger the injectors with a 12V input?
how would i be able to check for a reference voltage at the said sensors?
on a 3 wire sensor one is a ground,green/white one is reference voltage yellow/white and third is return to ecm.which varies..red/yellow TPS, check with a voltmeter and the ecm pulses the ground for the injectors the 12 volt is continuous which is on pins 1-4 of the 17 pin white connecto at the ecm...or use a noid light to see if you are getting injector pulse
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks