Well compression is as follows
185 - 180 - 180 - 185
Seems good to me, eh? I think the rings are seated? So WTF. Maybe I just need to get vacuum to vent the case when I'm at WOT. Maybe get a valve that can split off the vacuum so when I romp on it, it diverts airflow up into the air cleaner, and pulls crankcase pressure out that way...
Leakdown tests?
Need to get a leakdown tester.
Me and guy made one by splicing in a T fitting between the compression tester gauge and the hose. It has a valve and an air fitting, so you can air up the cylinder, close the valve and watch the pressure drop.Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
Need to get a leakdown tester.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
What about cranking the cylinder to TDC which should bring the gauge up to 180psi, right? Then if the pressure drops, will that mean I've got leakage? Or do I need more pressure than that?
think about what you just said
that would be like measuring a fart (psi) , you only have that one moment for each event, you need to be able to measure regulated sustaining pressure, (ouch)
the guage has a check, you need external pressure
I've always wondered what the pressure of a fart was.think about what you just said
that would be like measuring a fart (psi) , you only have that one moment for each event, you need to be able to measure regulated sustaining pressure, (ouch)
the guage has a check, you need external pressureI'll get my hands on a leakdown tester.
but where do you find one that measures in bean pounds per square inch? and wouldn't the methane mess up the reading? since it's less dense then airI've always wondered what the pressure of a fart was.
here you go, leave it to the search wizard http://www.poopreport.com/Doctor/Knowledgebase/psi.html
^^ LOL. I suppose Taco Bell could build excess blow by as well.
But guess what. I seem to have fixed the problem.
I did two things.
1. New valve cover gasket. The other one I used was new, but must have been sort of rubbish.
2. I split the vacuum line off of the catch can. I ran the other line to that port on the back of the Weber carb. Then I put check valves on both of the vacuum lines. This way when I'm at idle and low speed cruising, the manifold puts vacuum to the crankcase. And under load, and high speed cruising, the carb creates the vacuum in the crankcase.
The setup actually emulates Hondas crankcase venting system. There's a little mini canister under the stock air cleaner. Instead of using a vacuum port on the carb to depressurize the crankcase, the pressure in the air cleaner itself drops. There's also a vacuum line to the manifold off of the stock little canister as well too.
So maybe a freshly built motor like this just creates a lot of pressure, and after a bit of driving, it will calm down a bit. I'm still kind of afraid though that it's a sign of something bad and that I might be covering up the symptoms. I guess I'll keep reading online, and get to a leakdown test when I get a chance...
voila
you are on to something there, the oem pvc system is "internally calculated' to handle that particular engine, just as pvc valves are not intended to be universal, they have applications for each engine for how much vac it takes to toggle it.
i forgot about that system the seperator is on top of the valve cover not on the back of the engine. and it has that little piece under the air cleaner. on that setup a bad valve cover gasket will def cause a problem.
Yeah, I'll have to take pics of it sometime soon here. But even with the separator in the valve cover, my catch can still captures a bit of mayo. I'm okay with that though, beats the hell out of reburning that crap. I'm sure part of that is what turns into carbon buildup.
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