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Thread: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

  1. #1

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    INTRODUCTION & LINKS
    First I think we should be able to find the parts we need so this is the main reason I posted this new thread, the rest is pretty much going back through old threads and searching the internet for way to manage your ignition and fuel. The rebuilding of the engine internals can be carried over from the rest of the EFI turbo rebuild threads and doesn't need to be gone over again. The exception is that we don't use an intercooler however there are still ways to cool the air charge, I'm working on a list and will post it later.

    TURBOCHARGING A CARBURETOR
    Quote Originally Posted by sixgears
    An easy way to turbo a carb is via a Holley 4 barrel with vacuum secondaries, A draw-through setup in which air flows through the carb prior to the turbo. This gets rid of pressurizing the carb. When boost comes on you need more fuel to keep from a lean condition. This is where the vacuum secondaries come in. The diaphragm that controls the secondaries operates on the presence of vacuum, but if you disassemble the diaphragm and move the spring to the other side of the rubber, you can run straight manifold pressure to the diaphragm and when boost comes on, it will open the secondaries and utilize the secondary fuel system, giving fuel enrichment and a closer to Stoich mixture. two things you need are an air/fuel gauge and different rate spring to dial out your boost/secondary opening crossover point...... another diaphragn that needs swithing to boost signal is the powervalve.

    In the case of a 2BBL you would either have to jet extremely fat at idle and low RPMs to make up for the much denser charge of air when the snail is boosting', or jet it so that it doesn't instantly foul plugs (leaner) and risk detonation and eventually a burnt piston. There has to be enrichment at boost. Supercharger is not a bad idea (a20a1 and I through this one around), and because it builds boost so low in the rpm curve, jetting can be set accordingly(no "boost/no boost situation)

    RELATED LINKS
    TURBOCHARGING CARBURETORS
    http://www.smbaker.com/rail/monsterturbovw.html
    http://0--1.net/tom/turbo_motor.html
    BLOW THRU HOLLEY
    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    A while back I took some notes on turbo charging a carb
    Turbo & Carb Placement
    The longer the air fuel charge has to travel the more heat it picks up and also the more chances for the fuel to seperate form the air.
    I was thinking a single 4bbl holley and have it bolt to the turbo with a 45 or 90 degree elbow that feeds the carb mix to the tubo... add a heat spacer to protect the carbs fuel source from boiling. But hot enough so the carb doesn't ice

    This isn't the final Turbo orientation... but it gives you and Idea of what I was thinking of.


    Turbo Manifold / Exhaust Routing
    One thing that must be done is protection of all parts in the area from heat. So lots of heat shielding to the brake lines and trans and coolant lines is helpful
    Also wrapping the turbo manifold and downpipe in key areas to protect the distributor and ignition parts... is a good idea, fully wrapping could be bad or good, excessive heat may damage the turbo, and can cause metal fatigue in turbo manifolds but loss of heat can lower the exhaust energy.
    The downpipe for the turbo will need to be wrapped depending on where it routes to protect the oil pan from getting heated by the downpipe

    Here is a SU carb on a Draw-Thru Setup, I like the way the manifold and turbo are situated with the turbo outlet facing upwards, I never figured the fuel would flow well upwards... I wanted my air/fuel charge to exit the turbo with the outlet facing down. Also water was injected in front of the carb instead of port injection.


    Here is a Draw-Thru Setup, it uses a 4bbl 390 cfm double pumper on a rotary motor


    Here is a list of some problems and links to possible solutions

    DRAW THRU CARB
    - Extreme vacuum condition if the turbo is at boost and throttle is closed could suck the oil out of the turbo bearings
    - If oil gets into the air / fuel mix, it lowers your octane immediately, and pinging will start at lower boost pressures.

    -FIX- Need turbo with a positive (Carbon) seal on the compressor side of the turbine
    -FIX- Run a oil cooler before the oil inlet into the turbo.
    This will cool the oil down and help it from being sucked through the seals or blown through the exhaust side (cooler oil is thicker).
    Also makes the turbo run cooler and last longer.

    - Restricting the intake to the turbo will lose compressor efficiency.
    - Air-Fuel mixture must pass through the turbo
    - Fuel must stay suspended in the intake charge
    - Compressor turbine will throw the fuel against the turbo shell, causing a lean-out condition, thus turbo lag.
    - Fuel is denser than air and tends to separate in the turbo and puddle up
    - Turbo less efficient because it has to pump heavier mixture
    When carb causes a pressure drop and the turbo tries to increase the pressure there is a loss in efficiency, which translates into a hotter mixture in the engine which limits the boost you can run and your power.

    -FIX- Water / Alcohol Port Injection
    -FIX- Avoid Extra Intake bends
    - Heat needed to keep the carb from Icing

    Air Charge Cooling
    - Draw thru Intercooling, Not possible since intercoolers are dry flow
    - Water / Alchohol Injection
    -- SMC
    -- RSR
    -- AQUAMIST
    -- ERL AQUAMIST

    Turbo Cooling
    Different turbos will use different methods of managing heat such as water or oil
    - Oil coolers with fan
    -- B&M Oil Cooler

    Oil Cooling
    - Oil coolers with fan
    -- B&M Oil Cooler

    Engine Cooling
    - 160 Degree Thermostat
    - Aluminum Radiator Dual fans with shroud

    PCV System
    ???

    VACUUM
    On a draw through motor vacuum below the carb is giving the parts that operate off of ENGINE VACUUM false vacuum readings.

    Vacuum below the carb 24"
    Actual engine vacuum 14"
    As you open the throttle vacuum is supposed to drop to allow the power valve to open... however...
    Vacuum below the carb is 12"
    Actual engine vacuum is 2"
    Under actual engine vacuum the power valve should be open all or most of the way @ 2"
    but because of the boost you get 12" so the valve doesn't open all the way or not at all and your mixture ends up being lean.

    The POWER VALVE needs to be OPEN in order to RICHEN the fuel mixture, you do this by converting to a boost sensitive powervalve, which operates the power valve based on positive pressure, instead of negative pressure.
    TURBOS W/ CARBON SEALS

    Now there were RAYJAY turbo's with carbon seals already installed but I went to a few sites that say RAYJAY no longer exists.
    Anyone have experience with this turbo?


    Airesearch TO4B35 from CB Performance Products
    $800

    damn a full airesearch kit on ebay
    $15
    link

    more carbon sealed turbos from VWTurboKits.com

    - T25/T3
    - T3
    - T3/T4 TO4E
    - T3/T4 48
    - GT33
    $550 and up
    - llia




  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    ignition Management

    Quote Originally Posted by Tech Help
    In theory this will be a nice way to cover upgrading the distributor to an electronic advance one, may offer more then that if you add some ignition programmable/adjustable contorls. I don't feel so bad about converting to the F-Series OBD-1 Distributor. Also this should help with turbo or supercharging setups... though the same boost mods to EFI sensors will need to be done to any sensors still in use on the carb setup, so that includes the Missing Link mod.
    I found some promising info on: REDPEPPERRACING.COM
    Here is the original thread: Dis Ignition System Conversion?, didnt know where to post this question.
    Just in case you were wondering, you can toss the internal coil an external ignition coil with an adapter from:
    MSD
    * Honda Accord 2.2L 90-91 TEC Distributor
    PN 8292 - Modified Distributor Cap
    PN 82921 - Red Cap
    PN 82922 - Modified Extreme Honda Power Cap
    PN 8296 - Stock Cap
    The Cap Is The Same For These Engines As Well:
    * Accord DX (Only) 2.3L 98-02 w/TEC Dist
    * Civic del Sol 1.5L/1.6L 93-97 w/TEC Dist
    * Civic/Si (Exc. 96-00 HX) 1.5L/1.6L 92-00 SOHC/DOHC
    * CRV 2.0L 97-01 w/TEC Dist
    * Acura Integra (All Models) 1.7L/1.8L 92-93 w/TEC Dist
    * Integra GS,LS,RS 1.8L 94-01 w/TEC Dist

    CRANE
    * Part Number: 730-0694
    * Part Number: 730-0794
    Quote Originally Posted by CRXfanatic Mar 18 2005, 08:32 AM
    I'm too lazy to read thru all that... Here is what I got when I was researching doing this...
    Im running the MSD-6AL for extra spark, considering the newly found air and fuel. The stock ECU is still in place. Distributor legs are cut to allow me to run more static advance (around 26 DEGREES) to be exact. Also running stock coil still as well.
    To be honest I was skeptical about the STATIC TIMING figure all the way through the RPM RANGE. Bisi told me based on his research, timing changes after 3,000 RPM didn't reward him with any power advantages so he opted to keep it simple. He still runs this configuration but with the MSD DIGITAL-6AL which allows him to have a 20 DEGREE start RETARD for easier starting due to the HIGHER COMPRESSION.
    In addition, the guys from the RCREW road race team in NorCal schooled me on another carb configuration, that allowed a timing curve. They got the set up from SSWORKS, who also runs the KEIHIN FCR CARBS on their B18C VTEC powerplants.

    - Keep ECU still in place
    - Let the TPS hang, but keep it plugged in to the HARNESS and rig it so its at WOT all the time.
    - Get a VACUUM SOURCE from the BRAKE BOOSTER line, etc. etc. and run this to the MAP SENSOR.
    - Stock distributor timing
    - INJECTORS, IAT, IACV, etc. etc. disconnected of course.

    Both of the guys I talked to running this spoke on the great power and drive ability this method gave. I never got a chance to try it though. Some how even though the computer is in LIMP MODE, the MAP reading and the WOT TPS enable the ECU to give a TIMING CURVE much like stock. (some how some way)..lol
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Leave the ECU in the car, don’t mess with it. It will stay put for starting and spark. Leave the HARNESS alone, except what you need to disconnect to get the carbs on, for example, MAP, IAT, IACV, TPS, INJECTORS, all get unplugged. You can roll all these up and zip tie em, or whatever. Install an MSD unit. Something with a REV LIMITER would be nice seeing how you no longer have a ECU controlled FUEL CUT-OFF. The MSD also helped clean up my idle. Good thing to have the extra spark to along with the extra fuel and air. Still running the stock coil also.
    Picture your stock distributor at FULL ADVANCE. It would probably only get around 19 DEGREES max if that. So you cut slots in the distributor legs to allow you to rotate the son of a bitch way past what Honda intended. This is done because with all those VITAL PGMFI SENSORS being disconnected, the ECU doesn't know what the hell is going on, and thus RETARDS the IGNITION TIMING. The cut distributor allow you to run higher STATIC ADVANCE so this isn’t a problem anymore. I am running 26 DEGREES as it is right now. This was recommended by 'Bisi. 'Bisi told me that research he'd done didn't show anything beneficial to having an ADJUSTABLE TIMING CURVE past the 3,000 RPM mark, so his advice to me was keep it simple when I told him about other methods I had heard.
    Fuel wise. From the stock FUEL FILTER run a FUEL LINE through both carbs. The FUEL LINE coming out of the last carb then goes into the FUEL INLET PORT of a Holley 1-4 PSI REGULATOR. Bisi told me I need to get something that sits at a solid 5 PSI so I need to take care of that. This REGULATOR has two FUEL OUTLET PORTS. On one OUTLET PORT get some fittings and install a FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. On the other side, run a FUEL LINE from this OUTLET PORT and out to the stock FUEL RETURN LINE. This allows you to keep the original FUEL INJECTION PUMP in place. Bisi and my friend Teren used to run the streets like this for years with out any problems to the FUEL PUMP. Because the excess FUEL PRESSURE is running back to the FUEL RETURN LINE, it doesn't put much stress on the FUEL PUMP.
    About the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, either get used to it, or pull the bulb out.
    see there are different setups you should read the thread here:
    http://www.redpepperracing.com/forum...T&f=33&t=15591



    BTW:

    SU = Skinners Union

    Skinner being the one who pantented the design

    lots of good SU info, even software for needle selection.
    http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/index.html

    here is a place to buy the carb, but there is always ebay.
    http://www.burlen.co.uk/

    Funniest and probably the most interesting thing I've seen for CV carbs... if you know what usual CV carbs look like you'll see why.
    http://www.american-made.com/mcadvan...ges/carbs.html


    Quote Originally Posted by snoopyloopy
    i'm not used to a carb looking like that.
    It's a Constant Velocity Carb... it much simpler than other carbs.

    I found a little animation of the carb in action.
    http://su-filters.com/sucarbs.html

  3. #3
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    well i have a pair of SU carbs stitting in my parts car 280Z. i may think about using them for the accord instead of webers. looks like i could easily tune them and make them work well on my car.
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
    B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
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    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Hey guys thought you might be interested in my turbo setup. Its the CB3 Accord with the F20A3 engine (comes with keihin carb same as 3g one standard) Ive gone suckthrough turbo using a 1.75" SU carb running 10psi.
    Still got to tune it and setup a boost retard.

    Pics as requested.
    Pic of 1.75" SU carb mounted BEFORE turbo aka suckthrough.
    More info for those interested.
    Turbo exhaust manifold off 4G63 engine.
    TD04L turbo.
    2 inch intake/charge piping increasing to 2.5 inch before intake manifold flange.
    Thermoflex joiners (suitable for fuel/air mix)
    Vacuum advance currently disconnected, Running 6' at idle with full advance of 19'.
    9.5mm fuel line reducing to 6mm after engine bay filter.
    Standard exhaust except for rear muffler with 4.5" tip.
    Redesigned throttle linkage.
    Custom turbo oil feed/return lines and coolant lines.

    Pic of turbo and manifold


    EDIT: Fitted fuel system this weekend.
    New fuel setup, includes Civic fuel pump (on original accord bracket) and Holley fuel pressure regulator.
    Currently set at 5psi fuel pressure.





    Still trying to work out where the noise is coming from and wether or not it is actually detonation.
    Running standard fuel pump and regulator if It has one?? Its the New Zealand model so It doesn't have EVAP canister or fuel return line, only fuel feed to carb, so as far as I know It just runs constant 3psi, Not sure how its regulated though.

    Quote Originally Posted by HondaBoy
    well i have a pair of SU carbs stitting in my parts car 280Z. i may think about using them for the accord instead of webers. looks like i could easily tune them and make them work well on my car.
    Never overestimate the tuning ability of carbs, In theory they will work, but actually tuning them is not as easy as it sounds. . . Be prepared for unable to drive unless at least 1/2 operating temp, crappy idle/no idle when cold (no choke) and various other problems.


    On a side note, suspected fuel bowl was being drained too fast when on boost.
    Checked fuel pressure with engine running, had no pressure. Fuel flowing but no pressure. Pulling tank out this weekend and removing pump, so I can arrange to fit civic 40psi EFI pump with a holley fuel regulator to bring pressure back down to 6psi.

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran gfrg88's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    nice!!! wouldnt it be better if he had an intercooler though???
    -Gio
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    My E85 Turbo Build
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  6. #6
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Quote Originally Posted by gfrg88
    nice!!! wouldnt it be better if he had an intercooler though???
    Yes It would be awesome if I COULD use an intercooler . . . fuel air mix going through an intercooler??? intercooler cools air and uses narrow passages, which can cause fuel to condensate inside, and if you were to get a backfire up the intake . . . well you can work that out. It also means the mixture has to travel through a much longer passage.

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    3Geez Veteran gfrg88's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Quote Originally Posted by colinnicholson86
    Yes It would be awesome if I COULD use an intercooler . . . fuel air mix going through an intercooler??? intercooler cools air and uses narrow passages, which can cause fuel to condensate inside, and if you were to get a backfire up the intake . . . well you can work that out. It also means the mixture has to travel through a much longer passage.

    wait im lost... so theres already air/fuel mixing before it actually goes into the engine??? where can i see how a suckthrough setup works, i feel like n00b
    -Gio
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    My E85 Turbo Build
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  8. #8
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Quote Originally Posted by gfrg88
    wait im lost... so theres already air/fuel mixing before it actually goes into the engine??? where can i see how a suckthrough setup works, i feel like n00b
    Yep fuel air mix goes from carb through turbo and then into engine


  9. #9
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    here where i live we rarely have cold weather. when i start my car cold, it usually just makes it run overly rich. if i open the choke it runs fine and i guess i really dont need the choke too badly. is there no chokes on the SU carbs? if i was to do a dual setup i would probably have a manual choke setup, thats what i have been wanting to do anyway. i have a friend that can help me out with tuning the carbs. he's had many cars with dual and tripple carb setups like on datsuns and toyotas.
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
    B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
    Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap

  10. #10
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HondaBoy
    here where i live we rarely have cold weather. when i start my car cold, it usually just makes it run overly rich. if i open the choke it runs fine and i guess i really dont need the choke too badly. is there no chokes on the SU carbs? if i was to do a dual setup i would probably have a manual choke setup, thats what i have been wanting to do anyway. i have a friend that can help me out with tuning the carbs. he's had many cars with dual and tripple carb setups like on datsuns and toyotas.
    No the SU carb doesn't have a choke as such, it has the option of a simple fuel enrichment by lifting the fuel needle, but thats about it.

    Checked out my fuel problem tonight-Getting about 0.25psi fuel pressure. So I checked the pump by running it directlt off a 12v source, It went up to 1.0psi. went for a drive like that, get to about 3000rpm and 0psi, So the detonation is simply due to running out of fuel. Hopefully going to sort that out this weekend. Ill be sure to let you guys know how it goes.

    Finally got around to doing the fuel system this weekend. Damn taking out the tank and putting it back isnt easy. Ended up having to do it 4 times!!
    So any way, fitted the civic fuel pump and holley fuel reg. Got It currently set at 5psi fuel pressure at the carb, Detonation has definatly gotten much less. Now the next thing is to replace the valve guide seals, and hopefully that will be the last of my detonation woes

  11. #11
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Quote Originally Posted by 3rdgenhatchDX
    Cool couple of questions though
    1. How is the turbo setup to the manifold? and what is that vac line from the turbo going to?
    2. About this SU carb, does SU stand for anything? and can you buy a new one? will it work with my A20A1 without all the vac lines?
    thanx!
    How Is the turbo setup to the manifold?
    the turbo just bolts onto it with 4 bolts.
    As for the vac line, I'm assuming you mean the black lead going across the manifold? Thats the oxy sensor wiring.
    All vac lines removed except for:
    The vac line that goes from the charge pipes to the wastegate actuator.
    And The brake booster Line.

  12. #12

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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Is that an EFI civic pump or Carb Pump?

    I've seen stock efi pumps running carbs before but they usually need a return line for the fuel.
    - llia


  13. #13
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    Is that an EFI civic pump or Carb Pump?

    I've seen stock efi pumps running carbs before but they usually need a return line for the fuel.
    EFI pump off a 1996 civic, The pump has its own regulator in it, where it bypasses at about 80psi i think. I have no idea how long the pump will last, but when/if it does die, Ill be adding a return line, Although there is another way to do it . . . drill a 1mm hole in the steel tubing above the pump to releive the excess pressure.

    Been having a few problems lately, namely oil being sucked through the turbo at idle causing excessive smoke out exhaust.
    So I disconnected the SU carb, and charge pipes and refitted the original honda carb. It felt really gutless with standard carb.
    Drove it into work today, and carried out a compression check, Results as follows: (should be around 175 psi)
    #1 - 90 psi
    #2 - 125 psi
    #3 - 130 psi
    #4 - 70 psi

    So as you can see . . . bye bye engine, sorry guys I really wouldve liked to have had it fully up and running, so you could see some results.

    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    DRAW THRU CARB
    - Extreme vacuum condition if the turbo is at boost and throttle is closed could suck the oil out of the turbo bearings
    - If oil gets into the air / fuel mix, it lowers your octane immediately, and pinging will start at lower boost pressures.
    -FIX- Need turbo with a positive (Carbon) seal on the compressor side of the turbine
    -FIX- Run a oil cooler before the oil inlet into the turbo. This will cool the oil down and help it from being sucked through the seals or blown through the exhaust side (cooler oil is thicker). Also makes the turbo run cooler and last longer.
    Also, enough oil in the airfuel mix will increase the compression.
    Was going to get my turbo converted to carbon seal, but no point now lol
    Hmmm diddnt think of an oil cooler before turbo, although I was using a thick oil any way.

    Removed #4 piston today . . .

  14. #14
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    oh shit whered the rest of it go

  15. #15
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Re: Suckthrough turbo setup

    Was still there when i removed it, then moved the rings, and the 2 peices dropped off. . . oh well thats the cost of boost

  16. #16

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    this topic indeed is worth some study and worth keeping
    I have thought of DIS as well as COP (coil on plug) being used in applications other than with ECU fuel managment, so that the mechanical factor in ignition timing control could be upgraded.
    I have seen Electomotive Ignition systems that uses crank triggered signal for two coils, sort of like a magneto set up and wondered why couldn't a similar thing be done with generic parts. I never thought of using Honda OEM existing hardware, and using cam trigger thru distributor. Controling the amount of advance with the FI distributor by using current inputs to the OEM ECU is going to the the ticket.


    Early various other makers of port fuel inj cars used little if any ties to ignition other than timing controls. (electronic controled carb cars uliltized that as well. but not 3 gen accords)

    This is a project that has a lot of potential, but I don't know if anybody with a FI car would convert to carb. I would consider it especially with the older LXi black box cars.
    Those that want real fuel delivery and use multiple carb setups take notice!!!

    Ok I would like to post a shopping list for JY, for this application. Easy to read /model/year vehicles to get these OEM parts from.
    This can be edited or add to thread for addtional information.
    The purpose of this would be for someone wanting to do this conversion on factory carbed car rather than otherwise.


    Also, what has to be removed from Original Carbed vehicle for these items to be placed.

    Incomplete List
    _____________
    ECU from LXi
    Distributor from LXi
    Wire Harness LXi
    TPS sensor
    Coolant temp sensor (ECU)

  17. #17
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
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    Re: Carburetor Ignition Management - Using Efi Ecu W/ Electronic Advance Distributor

    did anything come out of this? this is very interesting. i would like to be able to change the advance curve when i do my carb setup. has anyone had good luck with standalone ignition control boxes,that change the timing curve?

  18. #18

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: Carburetor Ignition Management - Using Efi Ecu W/ Electronic Advance Distributor

    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    see there are different setups you should read the thread here:
    http://www.redpepperracing.com/forum...T&f=33&t=15591
    Wow, thanks I found another carbie talk place, old school mods on new engines, ... matter of fact I ran across two other forums among these links that never came up as many times as I have searched Honda/carb/Accord/Civic/Weber

    Right now it looks like using JY parts may not necessarily be the most economical source for stand alone ign or computer controlled ign. I need some time to study this and explore resources.
    Last edited by 2oodoor; 05-23-2007 at 02:50 PM.

  19. #19

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    bump, added new info
    - llia


  20. #20

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    thanks, you have my undivided attention now.
    I was thinking blow thru, but I am reading this information and thinking I could go with different carbs than DCOE < $$$ on the pull thru.

  21. #21

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    Quote Originally Posted by roodoo2 View Post
    thanks, you have my undivided attention now.
    I was thinking blow thru, but I am reading this information and thinking I could go with different carbs than DCOE < $$$ on the pull thru.
    for sure
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB....cWAT.m240.lVI


    besides I would really enjoy the visual aspect of a shiny anodized carb and polished turbo in close proximity, and the sound the carb would make, vs making more power with Blow thru or efi
    - llia


  22. #22

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    would sound kinda like an early buick T type, deep loud-raggedy but hauling a$$

    that turbo set up went for $222.50, and Yes I missed it.

  23. #23
    DX User colinnicholson86's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    Wow. Been quite a while since I've been around here - Usually on CB7Tuner now.
    This thread hasn't progressed very far though. Has anyone else gone through with the carb draw-thru design??
    Btw good to see your still around here A20A1. Hows things been?

    And for those interested, after I blew that engine. I couldn't afford the engine build downtime on the car, so just put in another block.
    I then brought another CB7 (fuel injected) then turboed that.

  24. #24

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    the thread was assembled from various others I guess because I have never seen the first part of it.
    Even since the last post I put on it.

    There is still interest in the topic absolutley, but the largest part of the forum seems to be anti-carb, too bad for them huh.
    welcome back

  25. #25
    LX User evil88accordLX's Avatar
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    Re: Draw-Thru ( Turbocharging your carbed accord )

    Quote Originally Posted by roodoo2 View Post
    There is still interest in the topic absolutley, but the largest part of the forum seems to be anti-carb, too bad for them huh.
    welcome back
    funny how we hate what we dont understand!

    has anyone ever played with the idea of using the stock exhaust manifold, or possibly an aftermarket header, and cutting it right before the firewall for turbo placement? the intake tube could draw air from the vacated black box area, and your charge pipe would only have to be like 2'-0" in length, if going sans intercooler. just a thought, especially since finding a turbo header is almost impossible.

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