yeah thanks man, took th rear dums off after haveing a bit of a fail moment. and the driver side ruber cap was off and it was pissing fluid out of it... also desided to shoot my in that face so i have a mouth and eye full of the tasty fluid lol.... i will be picking up new rear cylinders.... wish i could just go se-i now but damnit... oh well
Prolly need new brake shoes as well I bet there paper thin and the cups popped out of the cylinders.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
pads are thin.... but there just not in my budget... just moved... so ima just use up whats left... i know that sounds bad but i have allready put to much into this car... and still jobless after my move
ya... strange... did they do a mechanical inspection on your car while it was in the shop? You never know whats going on when people pull apart your ride to check stuff out.. haha
naa i doubt it... my mech is one of the best... and i trust him fully with my carsOriginally Posted by Soopitup
i have a simular problem with my brake pedal going right to the floor slowly if you hold it there. brakes work fine tho. my brakes have been bled correctly.
im not much of a brake expert so i cant help ya on this one
I should add that if your brake pedal fades slowly, then the same set of rules apply as if you can't build pressure at all. As your master cylinder continues to fail, it will bypass more and more pressure until you get no brake pressure at all.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
the way it sounds... is that my master cylinder is going out still... i have a feeling the leaking rear cylinder was just kinda a small part of the bigger problem.... time to read my hynes manual on master cylinder changes lol
Last edited by labeledsk8r; 02-29-2008 at 07:58 PM.
i like how you edited your first post to say you spelled "pressure rong" lol... and then continued to spell everything wrong including "hynes" manual... while the two names are related (haynes and hynes) they aren't the same. Trust me i know i've been called haynes my whole life. However, it seems to me that judging from the picture of the engine bay you posted when you got the car the mc looked pretty shitty. like rust on the bottom could just be the picture though. Also you'd be surprised how one leak can cause a whole brake system to not work properly. It's like when you bleed the brakes and you have one of the bleeder nuts unscrewed and the pedal has no effort whatsoever. if you have that say x2 or x4 it's obviously not going to stop very well at all. I'd change the mc and booster to be safe... but also look to see if it's not leaking excessively from the prop valve which can fail as well.
dead white and blue
man i really dont care about spelling... i truely dont... and everyone else seems to have understood what i said... so w/e man...
i know how one leak can fuck the entire system... but i think i blew the rear cylinder from me and my buddy screwing around.. it just poped the seal out now that i looked at it more... i will replace them anyways or atleast rebuild them... my only problem is right now is that i have spent almost 5 grand in like 3 weeks on a move and shit... and i kinda expected this car to atleast run allright till i had my job going.. but i cant even get my job back till i know i have a working car.... so my funds are running out fast... i plan to change everytihng... becuse your right it looks shity... but if i can get it to work for say a month without it i might have to do that just so i can get income again in this new city
time to upgrade to some technafit lines...i bought mine for 143 shipped...and they are real nice.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
um did you read my post above about kinda straped on cash atm rofl... i wish i could afford to upgrade rigt now... but i cant...
i agree its easy to replace the Mc's on our cars, just remember to bench bleed it and your good to go
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
whats bench bleeding?
Bleed the MC while on the bench..? lol
The idea is to have air free MC before installing into the car, and making further bleeding easier since there is less air in the system to begin with.
Okay, I try to avoid telling people exactly what to do, because I'm not there and every situation differs. I try to give people the general process and let them figure it out from there.
First, don't shotgun parts. It's a waste of money and time. Use the procedures to determine the proper course of action. You already determined that the rear cylinders are toast. Change those. If you don't like the way I explained it, read your Haynes manual. It'll tell you the same thing, but in a flow chart.
If in fact you just popped out a piston from the rear wheel cylinder, replace it anyways. If you just stuff it back in it'll never seal properly again. They're cheap.
Second, check stuff. Use your head and understand what's going on in the brake system. If you stomp on the pedal and pressure doesn't go to the brakes, it's going somewhere else. Undo the two bolts on the master cylinder to booster and check the piston rod in behind for fluid leakage. You don't even need to undo brake lines. If fluid pours out as soon as you separate the two, you've found an obvious problem.
If you decide to change out the master cylinder, do yourself a favor. Go to the auto parts store, and buy a cheap 10mm flare nut wrench. They will know what it is. Without it you will destroy your brake line flare nuts (the fittings with the wrench flats). After that, it's simple. I crack the brake lines first, then undo the cylinder from the booster. Then I finger loosen the lines off completely, and swap in the new, bench bled unit. It's a 20 minute job, not including bleeding.
Also, when you bench bleed or otherwise, pump the cylinder smoothly and slowly, if you thrash it around quickly, you will foam the air into the brake fluid, and you'll never get it all out until it sits for a few hours and you do it again.
Good luck.
Last edited by Ichiban; 03-01-2008 at 08:59 AM.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
That and at the angle some master cylinders are mounted to the car, proper bleeding is impossible because the air pockets end up higher than the port they are trying to escape from.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Change the cylinders first. When i was doing my brakes i forgot to tighten the bleed screw on one of the front calipers. So i was trying to bleed the rear brakes and the pedal would just go straight to the floor. So that one leaking cylinder can cause the pressure to be lost.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
i didnt mean to offend you if i did... i apreiciate the help... \brakes are the only system on a car that scares hthe shit out of me to rip apart...i have no problem doing disks and calipers but when it gets farther into its components it kinda cares me... dunno why....
im on my way over to car quest soon to get 2 rear cylinders (replaceing them in pairs) thanks guys i will let you know if this works
No offense taken. It just makes no sense to replace parts until you verify them bad. Which your master cylinder still may be, maybe not. If you take a logical, methodical approach, you can do just about anything. How do you think I felt the first (and only) time I grabbed a grinder and cut the rear framerail out of my car? With a little patience and hard work, I rebuilt it better than new.
Oh and if you need help with bleeding, just ask. I swear, do it wrong and you can lose your mind. There's a simple method (you need a friend to help) and a wrench. It's easy, and you'll end up with great brakes.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
i fully agree... blindly replaceing parts gets expensive and is not needed... thats mostly the reason i made this thread so i know what to check and what normaly goes bad... i could easly go order everything for the brake system and be in the hole 500+ bucks but that wouldnt be to smart
But then you'd have a brand new brake system
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
well since your broke and need the car for the job stuff the cups back in the cylinders bleed it real quick if you can and don't use the E brake at all. If it pops again the pinch that side off until you can get it all fixed up. Thats how life goes sometimes.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
well i just bought 2 new cylinders... and did that... mostly i was worried about buying like cylinders, master cyl, brake lines, booster... ya know just guessing as i fix things.... it seems to be stoping... the ebrake needs to be adjusted.... and the adjuster spring was broken on one... i put it back together for now without the adjuster clip and no spring... will have to get one from a junk yard when they open or new if you can get them new... it should be fine for a few days without that adjuster spring right?
Not sure on that but if the junkyard car has better pads than you, take those and use them for the mean time.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
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