Originally Posted by
guyhatesmycar
Okay, I try to avoid telling people exactly what to do, because I'm not there and every situation differs. I try to give people the general process and let them figure it out from there.
First, don't shotgun parts. It's a waste of money and time. Use the procedures to determine the proper course of action. You already determined that the rear cylinders are toast. Change those. If you don't like the way I explained it, read your Haynes manual. It'll tell you the same thing, but in a flow chart.
If in fact you just popped out a piston from the rear wheel cylinder, replace it anyways. If you just stuff it back in it'll never seal properly again. They're cheap.
Second, check stuff. Use your head and understand what's going on in the brake system. If you stomp on the pedal and pressure doesn't go to the brakes, it's going somewhere else. Undo the two bolts on the master cylinder to booster and check the piston rod in behind for fluid leakage. You don't even need to undo brake lines. If fluid pours out as soon as you separate the two, you've found an obvious problem.
If you decide to change out the master cylinder, do yourself a favor. Go to the auto parts store, and buy a cheap 10mm flare nut wrench. They will know what it is. Without it you will destroy your brake line flare nuts (the fittings with the wrench flats). After that, it's simple. I crack the brake lines first, then undo the cylinder from the booster. Then I finger loosen the lines off completely, and swap in the new, bench bled unit. It's a 20 minute job, not including bleeding.
Also, when you bench bleed or otherwise, pump the cylinder smoothly and slowly, if you thrash it around quickly, you will foam the air into the brake fluid, and you'll never get it all out until it sits for a few hours and you do it again.
Good luck.
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