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Thread: Dang

  1. #1
    DX User partyharty's Avatar
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    Dang

    Well today I decided to do a bit of work to the old honda. I put in a new gasket (valve cover) and did a few other piddly things. So I decided while I was at it I would bleed the brakes (they have been giving me some problems lately).

    I pull off the back passenger tire and put on my bleeding hose. When I went to turn the bleeding bolt, instead of turning, it sheered off. So a quick question to all of the honda guru's out there. What will it take to swap out that bleeding screw for another one?

    Am I basically resigned to tearing apart the back brakes entirely in order to get at the screw? As it sheered off level with the brake there is no part that i can try to grab on to. I could probably try drilling it out but I am betting that would cause more problems then it's worth (metal shavings in the brake is not something I would consider good for the braking system).

    I did find out that I need new drums and shoes on the back. At least the back passenger side. I attempted to pull off the back drivers side and it was on so tight that I couldnt break the lug nuts free (I recently had new tires put on and they went kinda crazy with the air rachet. I am a big guy and I was standing on the biggest lug wrench I had and it wouldnt break free (I also attempted to use a breaker bar. At the moment the lug nuts are soaking awaiting try 2.



  2. #2
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Look into a Grabit

  3. #3
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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  4. #4
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    Re: Dang

    Since you have rear drums just buy a new cylinder to put in. Just be careful with the nut on the brake line so it doesn't meet the same fate or end up getting rounded off. I would use some PB blaster on it the night before to let it soak in and then more before you try to loosen the nut.

    Heres a pic of what you'll need.

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  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Quote Originally Posted by EricW View Post
    Since you have rear drums just buy a new cylinder to put in. Just be careful with the nut on the brake line so it doesn't meet the same fate or end up getting rounded off. I would use some PB blaster on it the night before to let it soak in and then more before you try to loosen the nut.

    Heres a pic of what you'll need.
    That's what I'd do.

  6. #6
    LX User greentee76's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    That's what I'd do.
    x2

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran MessyHonda's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    yeah be really careful of the metal line....they have a special tool for the brake lines...it grabs 5 sides of the nut...i think its a brake line tool...sorry its too late to remember the name

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  8. #8
    SEi User Demon1024's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Quote Originally Posted by EricW View Post
    Since you have rear drums just buy a new cylinder to put in. Just be careful with the nut on the brake line so it doesn't meet the same fate or end up getting rounded off. I would use some PB blaster on it the night before to let it soak in and then more before you try to loosen the nut.

    Heres a pic of what you'll need.
    2x
    $30 new. just make sure to do both sides new pads aswell you'll have to take it all apart anyway.

    "Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"

  9. #9

    carotman's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    I have a nice trick to remove the wheel cylinder without breaking the metal brake hose.

    1- Pop out both pistons with their dust covers, you won't need it anyway but might be worth keeping them.
    2- Remove both 10mm screws at the back of the wheel cylinder
    3- Pull slightly on the wheel cylinder so it's separated from the backing plate.
    4- Put a long screwdriver through the now empty cylinder
    5- hold the brake line tight so it won't budge (10mm wrench or Vise-Grips for a rounded off line)
    6- Turn the wheel cylinder using the screwdriver. The key here is to prevent the brake hose from snapping. If you only turn the cylinder and the brake line stays in place, there's no way you'll break this one.
    7- Set the line end free with PB blaster and the 10mm wrench.. You can use a propane torch if you want. Once it turns freely again, install the new cylinder.

    Of course, you could do this on an old cylinder you would want to keep. However, I don't recommend popping the pistons out if you plan to keep it. Just use a monkey wrench instead of the long screwdriver. You could then try to get that broken bleeder out

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  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Quote Originally Posted by MessyHonda View Post
    yeah be really careful of the metal line....they have a special tool for the brake lines...it grabs 5 sides of the nut...i think its a brake line tool...sorry its too late to remember the name
    It's called a flare wrench

  11. #11
    DX User partyharty's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Quote Originally Posted by BITESIZE View Post
    It's called a flare wrench
    Yep, I picked up one of them, a set of shoes, 2 rebuild kits (with all of the springs), and 2 new cylinders. Now it is too wet to work on it (rained this morning and the jack just sinks into the mud) but once I can get to work I think that I will get this going.

  12. #12
    3Geez Veteran MessyHonda's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    sounds like your rear brakes will stop better...till you get disks rear

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
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  13. #13
    DX User partyharty's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Quote Originally Posted by carotman View Post
    I have a nice trick to remove the wheel cylinder without breaking the metal brake hose.

    1- Pop out both pistons with their dust covers, you won't need it anyway but might be worth keeping them.
    2- Remove both 10mm screws at the back of the wheel cylinder
    3- Pull slightly on the wheel cylinder so it's separated from the backing plate.
    4- Put a long screwdriver through the now empty cylinder
    5- hold the brake line tight so it won't budge (10mm wrench or Vise-Grips for a rounded off line)
    6- Turn the wheel cylinder using the screwdriver. The key here is to prevent the brake hose from snapping. If you only turn the cylinder and the brake line stays in place, there's no way you'll break this one.
    7- Set the line end free with PB blaster and the 10mm wrench.. You can use a propane torch if you want. Once it turns freely again, install the new cylinder.

    Of course, you could do this on an old cylinder you would want to keep. However, I don't recommend popping the pistons out if you plan to keep it. Just use a monkey wrench instead of the long screwdriver. You could then try to get that broken bleeder out
    Thanks for the info. I will probably be using this when the weather decides to cooperate.

  14. #14
    DX User partyharty's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Quote Originally Posted by MessyHonda View Post
    sounds like your rear brakes will stop better...till you get disks rear
    I would really like to get rear disk's sometime but it is difficult to find sei's in the parts yard around here (they tend to crush vehicles if they are very old). So unless I end up finding one I am probably going to have to run drums.

    Unless someone can tell me what all I need, and how I can order the parts from autozone :>

    -Chris

  15. #15

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: Dang

    Somebody was selling rear discs in the Marketplace section earlier this month. Might still be there.

    Oh, and this guy did this really good write up on frozen bolts. Check it out:

    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ghlight=frozen

    Dr_Snooz

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