We’ve all been there. The repair is going swimmingly until that one bolt simply won’t come free. We fight, curse, break tools and kick stuff in frustration.
Next time, avoid all that. There are four ways to free a seized bolt. Used separately or in combination, they can ensure a positive and curse-word free repair experience.
1. Impact
2. Leverage
3. Penetrating lube
4. Heat
Impact is the best known and in most cases, the fastest. A good compressor and a 600 ft-lb impact wrench get the job done in a right hurry.
Unfortunately, this is also your most expensive option and quite difficult to carry into a junk yard. Next time, try hillbilly impact. Whack the end of your box end wrench in the proper direction to loosen that stubborn bolt. In many cases, this can be more effective than an impact wrench, especially on smaller bolts.
Leverage is the next best known method for removing tough bolts. Most every mechanic has used a breaker bar.
Most mechanics also know that when the breaker bar isn’t enough, a jack handle slipped over the end of your breaker bar adds a tremendous amount of leverage, guaranteeing a freed bolt …or a broken bar.
Hillbilly leverage is also an option for smaller bolts. Slip the box end of your wrench on the tough bolt, then slip the box end of another wrench over the open end of the first wrench. Presto, double leverage with minimal tools.
Penetrating lube can be very helpful. Saturate your bolt with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster and let steep for a few minutes.
If the bolt is especially recalcitrant, try multiple applications. Then double-up with leverage or impact.
Heat is the final option, and really a Hail Mary option. If nothing above has freed your bolt, put a torch to it. I once got a spindle nut free with heat and a breaker bar, so I know it works. But be careful. You can end up melting important rubber and plastic pieces unintentionally.
Other notes on problem bolts -
Deformed bolts can be very problematic. There is no specific procedure for removing them. Try whatever you think might work and use vise grips as a last resort. They often work, but will deform your bolt further.
How to keep bolts from becoming frozen:
1. Use correct torque, ALWAYS. Don’t go crazy when tightening. Lug nuts have a torque spec of 80 ft-lbs, not of a full grown man jumping on a wrench handle. Not only will too much torque make future disassembly more difficult, it increases the likelihood of your bolt shearing off, which is a nightmare far worse than a frozen bolt.
2. Use a good anti-seize compound. Steel bolts bond to aluminum parts and vice versa. Your cylinder head is aluminum and all the bolts in it are steel. Use a good anti-seize compound to prevent seizing.
3. Avoid deforming bolts by ensuring that you have good alignment between your wrench/socket and bolt heads before laying into the wrench.
Like this:
Not this:
Our engine bays slope to a point and, consequently, are quite small. The engine is tucked in very snugly, and a lot of bolts can be in remarkably tight spots. Buy a set of socket u-joints to ensure good alignment for these out-of-the-way bolts.
4. Don’t let things go too long. A lot of problems can be avoided by performing regular routine maintenance and fixing problems when you first learn of them. If your thermostat cover is leaking, fix it. The longer it drips coolant on the lower cover bolt, the more likely it is to rust that bolt to the thermostat housing making a relatively simply repair become a half-day fight and a trip to the junkyard for a new housing.
Specific bolts – Thankfully our cars have few truly difficult nuts. Be aware of the following when you tackle them.
1. Spindle nuts – these hold the CV joints to the hub assembly. They have a torque spec of 134 ft-lbs. You’ll have to remove them very infrequently, leaving lots of time for them to rust solid. These are the only bolt where you might have to break down and buy a compressor and a mighty impact wrench to get them free. Before doing that, try this trick:
2. Crankshaft pulley bolts – this holds the fan belt pulley to the front of the engine. It can be very difficult because its torque spec is 108 ft-lbs and because it spins freely as you turn it (on auto trans models). Your best bet for getting this one loose is to wedge something in the timing light opening, between the drive plate and the transmission housing. I use a 6-inch impact extension because it’s strong and won’t fall through the timing hole.
Whatever you use, be aware that it will work its way down into the timing hole as you torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt. If it falls completely through, you will have to drop the tranny to retrieve it. You’ve been warned!!! If you drive a stick, this won't work, so try the spindle nut trick above.
3. AT drain bolt – this bolt rarely seizes, but YOU SHOULD ALWAYS USE A BREAKER BAR TO LOOSEN IT!!! The torque spec is 29 ft-lbs, which is pretty meager. However, when you loosen it, it will give way spontaneously and violently. If you are using a 6-inch ratchet handle when it does, you WILL smash your hand savagely into the underside of your car. It will hurt badly. You will swear, and possibly kick the car. Use a breaker bar for maximum control.
Hope this helps. Love your car and drive with joy!
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2004-2011?
Originally Posted by roodoo2
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