mmm. That sucks ass. I'm in the same boat. Without the tickets though. I can't wait till this summer when I can get a programming internship. $15 an hour.
mmm. That sucks ass. I'm in the same boat. Without the tickets though. I can't wait till this summer when I can get a programming internship. $15 an hour.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
header if it's the 4-1 type then yes even the stock 2G lude header and downpipe will make a difference, especially if you open up the ports and polish the inside a little i've made 200bhp with this setup before.
If I can find a 2g lude at a junk yard, should I also check to see if it's a B20?
no the mounts are different it wont bolt up rightOriginally Posted by Bass Man
2g ludes dont have b20s in teh usa
the only thing in the us that had a b20 was a crv and they wont mount up at all
I don't plan on doing a B20 in the next 10 years, but I was just checking for follow members...
Is it an A20, then?? I thought they were 20Si's, but didn't know how the exhaust manifold bolted up.
wrong. preludes have them too...
To be honest the time and effort you'll put into finding a 2G lude and also the cost of having the downpipe welded up to your system or a new one fitted might be just cheaper and less agro to get the uncoated Pacesetter header.
rjudgey, you're always talking about how much power you made with this or that setup. I'm curious to know how you measured it, what type of dyno, do you have any of the graphs?
Sooo......
Prelude Exhaust manifold = don't work.
Prelude Downpipe = Modified fit??
yeah the pacesetter is not a bad system...even if it does not improve flow its still alot lighter than the cast iron manifold.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Accord theory i have old dynos but the graphs they were printed on don't make a whole lot of sense to me or anyone else and they don't show any torque figures, also they cost a F load to do $80 a time, plus i don't know how accurately it is calibrated. So I tend to go more on real performance terms like how fast the car is, so go to drag sessions which cost only $40 for a whole day to tune and tinker with the engine and as it has run 14.5 second 1/4 mile time with stock road tyres with 195/50/15 tyres no LSD, not to mention everyone has seen vids of how quick the car excellerated and how it max's out the speedo which on U.K. car goes to 145mph and the revs it was pulling i'd say i know what the heck i'm talking about. None of the vids have the car running on NOS or anything similar don't like NOS just twin Weber 45's and a lot of DIY tinkering.
If i didn't have such a fast car do you really think i would have bothered with having $3k worth of custom 4 pot calipers and 300mm 2 piece disks made up to stop the car with, just some SI calipers and disks would have done if it were so slow!!!!
Accordtheory don't forget i may have only been around for 4 years but i've been modding these engines for over 10 years now and i personally have tested and destroyed more than you can ever imagine, so i know exactly what works and what doesn't, i also have every type of these engines from ET, ET1, A18, A20A1, A20A4, and even a vast collection of B20A's and box's so i know these engines very well, i've tried and tested numerous diffferent ideas on headwork for them not to mention got to the great expense of having custom bronze guides made, custom big valve convsersions, custom welding of the ports to make the shape better. The amount of money i've spent developing these engines is more than what a brand new S2000 would cost and not far off the cost of a minty 2nd hand NSX hell to be honest sometimes i just wished i saved all my money and got a Ferrari 308 GTS with Quad carbs and Fibre glass shell.
BTW i also run and tune a new BMW Msport Dieisel 2.0l which has about 215bhp and 310lbft torque i do happen to have an accurate dyno sheet of that last time it was on the rollers when it was producing just 209bhp and 300lbft or torque and was running 1.4 mile times of 14.9 seconds on road tyres with 235/45/17 size although being RWD traction of the line is much better but the car weighs 1495kg so thats quite a bit heavier than the lude.
So as every one knows i'm a real petrol nutcase having now 4 ludes 2 B20A, 1 A20, 1 ET engine ones as well as my Derv BMW. Even my stock ET lude which most people here has seen which is mint has been tweekd a little thats now running 16.3s 1/4 mile time with just a custom exhaust on it and thats just a 1.8l engine!!!
you might be able to give me an expected hp and torque number if you spent so much time on the b20a
back to subject on how high you can revs
the max safe piston sped is the one to work on.
from research 25 meters per second seems to be the limit
f1 cars seem to be round 23 to 24 mps.
if you know your stroke you can suss it with easy math
Last edited by Hauntd ca3; 03-31-2008 at 09:58 PM.
The 4-2-1 ex. manifolds came on 2g Preludes and '88-'89 fuel injected Accords. All '86-'87 Accords and '88='89 carbed Accords had 4-1 manifolds. Obviously the 4-1 and 4-2-1 down pipes are not compatible, but downpipes of the same type are probably compatible even if they are on different vehicles. But your exhaust is probably all welded together so you would have to have the new manifold/down pipe welded in.
C|
I can weld it myself, I just needed confirmation on the capatibility...
Now you've opened up another question!
What is better: Prelude manifold or LXI manifold?!
Also!! Is there a flexpipe on the LXI Downpipe?? I've seen many 2-1 Downpipes and they look 3 foot long!
Last edited by Bass Man; 04-06-2008 at 09:03 PM.
Most likely they are the same, if you can weld why not try making your own header?? Just need to send of the manifold gasket to a engineering company that can copy it and make you a stainless flange and then just weld away. Stick to roughly the same Pacesetter design but maybe make the primaries a bit longer and the secondaries a bit longer and also use a felxi joint instead of ball joint, use a 2.25" collector not 2" though and maybe have the top of the manifold more rounded with bigger smoother bends down to the 2-1 section.
Just a thought anyways, if not than just go with the lude or later 3g accord cast manifold port and polish it out inside and then make your downpipe to fit onto your current system. A Mandrel bent 2.25" system on this setup should be capable of supporting upto 200bhp bit less if you have to run a cat about 190bhp roughly all depends what else you do, if your planning a full blown race engine setup then you'll definately have to invest in making up a tubular manifold for more power.
I can weld with the best of 'em; I just don't have anyway to bend the tubing.
All I am after is a 16 second A20 for under $300...
lol the best way to get to 16 secs is to put some super low profile tires and lots of weight reduction....strip the interior
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I have 195/60/14s that are pretty dang wide, but I am thinking about getting different wheels.
Are you saying 16's are easy to get in an Accord?!
not so hard... i use to run 16s with jus intake, 2" exhaust, pacesetter header, and b16 intake mani.. also running really really rich, ran like shit, not tuned at all....
Good to know!
Shouldn't be too hard i'm getting 16.3 second 1/4 mile from my stock 2G lude EX with A18 1.8litre engine, only thing i've changed is fuel pump, FPR, little bit of tinkering on carb, and new exhaust and downpipe custom made by race exhaust specialist i know with all mandrel bent with 2" pipe and sports silencers (Type R tips to keep it honda looking!!). Running 195/60/14 using stock honda wheels as they are so much lighter than aftermarket i'd suggest the same for you, or another option would be some Rota wheels with 205/50/15 tyres would give you more grip.
If you just went with modding your intake with CAI, TB mods (knife edging intake, countersunk screws etc.), polishing inside of intake manifold and matching to head, some basic head work with race spec seats cut and matching valve heads, tiny bit of port work around exhaust valves, bit of work around combustion chambers, matched new injectors, FPR, F22 Map sensor mod, Header and exhaust, good plugs and leads, new dizzy and rotor should see you upto a good solid 140bhp with a mild cam maybe as much as 150bhp especially if you can ditch the CAT.
You know you can get pre-bent tubing right? I'm not talking about the crap you get at Autodrone either, I mean real mandrel bent tubing specifically for making headers and such. Summit Racing has it.
C|
^^ ebay dude. That's the way to go. I bought enough 2.25 stainless bends and straight pieces to make my custom exhaust for less money than it would have cost me to buy mild steel from summit.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
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