Hey Everybody,
I think that my alternator might be going out but im not completely sure. I was driving today and the battery light started flickering at idle and then it would go out if i revved the engine some. I had about 25 miles to drive home and it got a little worse where the light would only go out after 4000 RPMs. Does this mean that the Alternator is going out or could there be something else wrong?
Thanks so much for your help
sound slike it but it might also be a loose belt or bad battery check the voltage with a multi meter sould be around 14v
+1Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
I know that the belt is good, I checked that... the battery terminals are a little corroded, I hope that's it... I'll check it I'll let you guys know thanks
could also be loose connection on the alt or bad cables id replace those before tackling the altI know that the belt is good, I checked that... the battery terminals are a little corroded, I hope that's it... I'll check it I'll let you guys know thanks
the battery terminals were pretty corroded, I just cleaned them and it works now, im jumping for joy that hopefully the alternator doesnt need to be changed haha...
sweet...fix.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
ok, another update lol. I got in the car earlier to drive it to Fremont and right as i got on the freeway the damn battery light started flickering and eventually returned to its condition yesterday (charging only above 4k rpm). I came home and cleaned the contacts on the alternator plug, again it worked for a little while but then started doing the same shit again. Im getting ready to just change the alternator. My question is do you guys think there is anything else I should check before doing that? as everyone knows its not super fun to change. I do think I can get it out through the top if i remove all the plastic air intake crap. Thanks in advance
Your tachometer needle isn't jumping around a bit by any chance is it?
An auto parts store like Autozone should have a battery load tester. Some Autozones just have a simple voltmeter, but you want the tester that you clip to the battery, then flip a switch that puts a load on the battery, and tells you if the battery is performing ok. You might do that test before jumping on the new alternator. As you said, changing it is not fun.
Speaking just for myself, every time an alternator of mine has gone, it's gone totally, bang.
Also, have someone with a voltmeter test the battery when the car's off. Should be 12v. Then see what happens at idle speed, and as the rpm's go up to over 4,000. As said before, the voltage should be 13.8v or a little more, but it shouldn't take 4k rpm to get there.
Last edited by w261w261; 07-11-2007 at 03:09 PM.
I agree on the load test. The load test in performed at max 15 seconds, at two times within 5 minutes. If the volts drop below 10.6 volts (around that) on the load tests, the battery isn't good. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged before testing or you will get some bad readings.
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Mine did that about a month ago. It is an intermittent problem that will keep popping up. It will do it everyone once and awhile then your alternator will completely go out. The diodes or brushes are probably worn out, especially if it is the stock alternator. Also, if you take it to autozone and get it tested, and the light is off, then it will pass.
Best bet is just to replace the alternator. Solves all of your problems. Be careful, not an easy job. Another tip is, if you can find a local alternator repair shop, they will give you a much better price, and repair vs if you went to autozone and bought a re-manufactured one.
Re: Alternator Problems :(
Not sure if you have a DVM, but you can test what the alternator is putting out. IF ya can hit up Autozone & get it tested, the load tester will let you know if it's putting out what it should be. (has a reading on it to test voltage on the alternator, aka- charging system voltage)
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If you do eventually have to pull the alternator. Don't follow the chiltons or haines manuals. Not sure who wrote them but they never worked on a fuel injected Accord. You will have to pull the air filter box and drivers front tire (just to get to the pivot bolt) but it will come out the top no problem. Not sure if this can be done with carb'd engines but it works with injected ones.
yea, this happened to me, but it was just a loose connection of the big plug thingy. and yea, to change it on a carbed one, its easier with with front drivers side wheel off. and prolly the airbox and stuff too, but i dunno cuz i got a holley aftermarket with custom intake...
ya on a carbed 3g it wont come out from the top lol
you almost have to remove the axle to get it out lol it was a B***H to get out
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