I know that some people in the forums have c-pillar bars.... I was wondering what car you ordered them for... Cause I know that they don't make it specifically for our cars... I have an 87 hatchback...
I know that some people in the forums have c-pillar bars.... I was wondering what car you ordered them for... Cause I know that they don't make it specifically for our cars... I have an 87 hatchback...
Division 50
rear sturt bar?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
did a lil search and i found this
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62845
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yeah these were never confirmed to fit anything other then the sedan thanks to no one getting mesurements
i do believe that bitesize had one on his hatch before he got rid of it, ill look before i head off to bed.
If I connect my left nut to my right nut, is it going to hurt any less if I get kicked in the balls?
That's my way of say a "c pillar" bar doesn't do shit..
it does just as much good as strut bars do. They make us feel like they are doing good when in reality they arent doing anything. But rather than shitting all over this thread, i figured id contribute.
another case of mind over matter lol
I would love to have a C-pillar bar in my hatch.
Someone get measurements!
So you're saying it's a worthless mod, but you want to contribute to it anyway?
I feel responsible when I know something is bs to tell people, to help them save their money.
Strut bars actually can do something, depending on the design/method of mounting.
There was a multiple page thread on h-t about the c pillar bar a while back, a lot of the people who contributed were very knowledgeable, several of them were fabricators who build and design roll cages, and the consensus was that due to the location of the bar, it is basically worthless.
Look at it this way, if there was any flex there, the back glass would break or come off of the adhesive.
Why do you guys really want the bars? So if that back seat driver pisses you off, you can just downshift and smack their head into it?
I have a friend with a c-pillar bar in his EK hatch along with front and rear ST bars, lower H-brace, and a rear lower tie bar with full bodied Tanabe coilovers and it is the tightest most precise feeling car I've ever driven. They all help in conjunction with eachother. In my eyes there is no such thing as "worthless" bracing. And seriously, who the fuck wants people in their back seat?
Oh and Accordtheory, you're super pissed off at parts lately huh? hahaha![]()
Been a while since I've been on. I've been sick, and working insane hours during the night. But I had a C pillar bar from a 2006 integra I believe. My friend had one on his 2006 integra, so i thought i might try it on. Holy cow, it did fit. I bought it from him for 30 bucks. I did however sell it to turabaka on here. I think it was from a 2006 integra.If you really want to make sure, ask alika on preludepower.com. Tell him bitesize sent you. P.s. Everyone thought it was to hang shirts on. lol
Last edited by BITESIZE; 09-06-2008 at 04:34 PM.
he probably meant RSX
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Sorry I meant the rsx?
lol Honda wouldn't make something that breaks even if it did flex. Come on.
Last edited by codyJDM; 09-09-2008 at 08:05 AM.
4 door sedans ?
Any car for that matter, flexs a lot more than you think. No it isnt going to pop out the back glass because there are other places that will give to the reflex before that happens. A hatch back rear glass is in the hatch so that would not be an example.
Again, Accord Theory I am not trying to discredit the fact that what you say holds water. The fact is you really need to be pushing a car to be able to make recordable differences with a rear upper bar, but they do make a difference when that time comes.
just as food for thought to all of this stuff... when it comes to bracing and performance mods... there is really only one way to tell a difference... change one this at a time and run it on the same track to get a comparison. Carroll Smith talks a lot about this comparison of times being a good tuning method. However, as he says... it takes a very refined driver to really maximize a cars potential... especially when you are talkin about tenths of seconds difference that this bar may or may not provide.
In my opinion strut bars do make a difference.. as do the lower subframe braces... but that's just a comparison based on feel and how i ran against local autocross competition... not a hard time difference.
Just my dollars worth.
Zeph Uusitalo
Proof That Bike Carbs Work On An A20!
Dyno'd the accord. It made 104HP 117TQ.... And blew smoke everywhere. I guess the 210K motor really is done
You can use string , masking tape what ever and measure the sag with a cheap camera or put a guy back there with his eye balls and hammer a long 270 degree exit ramp for a few test.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
all i can say is my car is pretty tight for what is is.
tokicos with neuspeed springs
front and rear strut bars
front and rear swaybars(rear is a 4th gen one)
rear lower tie bar.
front prelude upper control arms
poly bushings in the front.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I suppose I'll have to link that thread from honda-tech..once I find it.
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