Over a couple years, I've aquired a little knowledge about common car audio.
First point: Dimming headlights.
To make it clear for ANYONE with this problem; a capasitor is NEVER the best option, or for that matter, a good option.
A second battery isn't the best option, either. But!!! There is a "throw in" alternative... Look into Kinetik power cells. They take the place of cap's and do a much better job at handling power.
There are so many other factors that play a part in excessive dimming. A good rule of thumb is; never use a thinner ground. ALWAYS match or better your power wire at the amp.
Another thing to do is upgrade your cars' ground wires, otherwise known as the "Big 3". The stock wires are no more than 8awg (American Wire Gauge)... This should be upgraded at LEAST every 500watts.
500watts is fine for stock.
1000watts needs 4awg.
1500watts needs 2awg.
1500+watts, I advise running at least one "run" of 0/2 or 0/1awg ground straight to the battery.
Section 2: Amplifier power and ways to measure it.
1500watts MAX might power your Sony Xplods........... but a 1500wattMAX amplifier will only give 1500watts if struck by lightning.
The TRUE measure in wattage is RMS; ROOT MEAN SQUARED, as in 1000watts RMS.
My BX1000D puts out roughly 912 watts RMS under a 1ohm load.
Amplifer output is AC volts(and yes, I've been shocked with it). RMS = Vac^2 in short. Clean, my amplifier measured 32.*Vac. 32.*^2 = 912.
Common amplifier classes.
The most common class is the A/B class. On a need-to-know basis, A/B is less efficient, (gets really hot under accesive use) but is usually a lot clean signal. They can be used on anything from tweeters to subwoofers.
D class I would say is strictly a bass amplifier. Aside from a little less clean, a D class amp will always run cooler than an A/B class (properly tuned) and in most cases, allow you to run a lower ohm load.
I've ran my BX1000D at ~.80 ohms after box rise for close to an hour straight, and the hottest it got was around 100 degrees... I've felt Audiobahn amps being played at 2 ohms for a half hour and you can't put your hand on it.
Setting your gain correctly
This is the most important thing in your system!!
Gain, or "Level" is there simply to match your stereo's output voltage. The proper way to set your gain is to use a DMM. I set mine by ear, but if you are willing, here is some awesome info...
Here is how I do it for customers who spend a lot on their equiptment and don't want to replace it soon.
I turn the volume up to the loudest the person ever wants to hear it, then turn the Bass Boost up all the way, then slowly turn up the gain untill it starts distorting, then put the bass boost down to about 80% (I have a knob that has the bass boost control on it, and I do it the same way)...
Section 3: Subwoofer enclosures
I design and build enclosure on the side. When I design a box, it's not just about your subs, infact, the vehicle it is going in is just as important. Granted, I am not the best, I do a good job for free... but if you want to spend $50, Pete is the ONLY one who does the absolute best enclosure.
There are 3 main enclosure types; Sealed, Ported, and Bandpass.
If you want light, tight bass, go sealed.
If you want deep, powerful bass, go ported.
ONLY buy a bandpass if it is designed for a certain subwoofer. If it is off by a little bit, it's gonna play like crap and blow your stuff FAST... Just be carefull...
There are also things like 6th and 8th order Bandpass, ABC, Transmission line, and Phaseboxes, and Pete can help you choose which way to go.
Section 4: Securing your Equipment'
I posted this in another forum:
Ok. Here is some usefull info.
I'm going from front to back.
Head Units:
ALWAYS use a back strap (comes with EVERY aftermarket head unit)
ALWAYS take your face plate off.
Front Speakers:
Your best bet would be to keep speakers behind your doors. If you have them outside the door, put black tape over the logo on the grill and secure with Tamper-Proof Torx Head screws. Tamper-proof Torx is the best anti-theft screw (Torx head with a little pin in the middle).
Rear Speakers:
Same as the front... If you don't want them stolen, don't show-case them.
Amplifier:
Secure all 4 mounting holes TO THE CAR itself with specialty screws...
Subwoofer Box:
Bolt the Subwoofer Box down through the floor, insert a bolt with a LOT of thread from the bottom, first through the floor, then through the box, and secure with Nyloc Lock-nuts.
They can try to unbolt the box, but even with an air-gun, no one can unbolt that.
Subwoofers into the box:
Again, those special Tamper-Proof Torx screws are the best for security.
If it is a professional thief, they will destroy everything in their way to get what they want. So take that into consideration.
OK... I am done for the night...
If there are any questions, I will gladly take a stab at it.
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Originally Posted by Bass Man
thats good to know ive never actually taken my seat out to look i just wanted a quick plug and play that was a mistake
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