hope you got a really hard out clutch for it cause youll need it haha
hope you got a really hard out clutch for it cause youll need it haha
just a stock clutch for now, dun have 500 for a proper kit.
Don't know if you've done this yet, but I'm curious how accurate you were able to get everything after you get back from being checked at an alignment shop..
i'd be curious to, unfortunatly i wont be taking it to an alignment shop, i will be doing it myself.
while i was installing the clutch i managed to break my 3/4dr 10mm point socketthen it started to rain.. so i quit for the night.
Isnt like 55% of the bolts on the 3gees 10mm? or is it just my car?
88 DX hatch.
10 14 12 17 19 pretty much all there is hahaOriginally Posted by OldSkoolA20accord
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
makes it a hell of alot easier to work on. When i would work on my old kia (the i hit a fence doing 80 in) i would either need to make 1,000 trips back into my garage go get a socket or roll my tool box over to my car. lol
88 DX hatch.
this has got to be the all time ultimate mod.
1. You have a hell of alot more power
2. You will be able to drift it.
3. Its freaking badass.
so how are you blocking the engine from the car.
Its going to be badass to look in the back window and see that beast.
88 DX hatch.
ya i have alot of 10mm sockets, but non of them are points... sooo it doesn't quite fit haha.
i wonder now if i can get voted for rotm
yea it's a 12 pointya i have alot of 10mm sockets, but non of them are points... sooo it doesn't quite fit haha.
i wonder now if i can get voted for rotm
You mean at first, right? and then you're taking it to a shop?
I set the camber on all 4 wheels on my car to within .1 degree.. that's right,.1 degree (perfect) with my eyes, but doing a thrust axis alignment in your driveway..?
there really isn't much to adjust on these cars as far as stock suspension goes... thrust axis? you mean caster right?
it wont see a shop for that unless i cant get it to feel right and feel right.
No, thrust axis is toe front to back. Ever seen a vehicle go down the road kind of sideways? That's what that is, the steering is off on the rear, so the front has to be off also so the vehicle goes in straight line..even if the vehicle itself isn't parallel with that line. You could set the toe on the rear, but have both rear tires slightly off from perpendicular to the car front/back, and encounter this problem. How are you planning on setting this yourself? I always watch whoever's aligning my car do it, since my cars are always modified, they always let me. it's really easy to follow the directions on the computer, if you're worried about the tech fucking it up.
Why don't you want a shop to do it? it's only like $50..
Normally the only thing you can do in your driveway,(or on a flat level surface, actually) with any accuracy at all is the camber. And that's only if you have a really good eye. There are a few kits out there to do the toe, etc, but they are rather expensive, and not as accurate as an alignment setup at a shop. You'd also need some way to actually be able to move the wheels around with the weight of the vehicle still on them, otherwise everything will be Way off, unless you kept rolling the car around after each adjustment and then re checking it. An alignment shop uses a little metal pads on the rack that roll around on bearings for the wheels to move on.
I have a question for you also. Do you know how the 4ws system from the prelude works? Could be pretty cool..
4ws uses a smaller secondary rack on the rear wheels thats drivin by a shaft from the front. newer gm trucks/suv's utilize a electronic version. or used to, my 2 months working at a gm dealership a long time ago when they were selling them proved to be rather problematic and expensive to fix.
as far as what you described, i've heard of the problem, only i call it dog trailing or tracking (other people have other names for it). there are quite a few modified trucks/suv's here that have that problem.
i will take crack at it first, if i cant get, then i will take it in. from what i can tell, my eyes are working pretty good haha.
Last edited by Vector; 08-11-2008 at 08:02 PM.
SO... i'm pretty fucking stoked, i was able to fire up the engine today once i got all the wiring sorted that i was working with. needless to say this is a pretty huge milestone in this project and now i can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
BUT......
unfortunatly the engine sounds like it has a pretty bad rattle/knock... so i'm going to have a couple friends come over tomorow and check it out.
i will try to clean up the wiring/components and get some vid for you guys to check out as well.
thats all i have for now.
real cool!!, would it also be driveable?
badass man. hope the sound isnt a big deal
btw what did you do with the old engine and stuff that was in it?
88 DX hatch.
sounds good, grats on getting it started, it's half the battle
maybe you forgot to install the oil??
hope its nothing
if i had the clutch system installed and connected, yes it would be driveable.
the b18a went into a da teg that my wife will soon drive.
i resent that....lol. it has oil in it, i checked it before firing it. i was warned when i got the engine that it rattles. but i didn't think it was that bad, i thought maybe it had something to do with the one of the spark plugs being blown apart and the balancer shafts not set correctly.
----
either way it runs, i have another one of these engines already taken apart so i have extra parts, probably needs a bearing or two. i also have the f22a6 that came with the cb7 clip, i could always give that a shot lol.
once i figured out the wiring on the f22 harness, she fired right up like it was meant to be. i thought the accord pt6 ecu ran the engine just fine. would like to see how it reacts when the car is in motion. once the car is driving, i will get this p06 i have chipped for it.
heres link to the video running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tLcw5qfMjQ
Thats a rod knock
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
sweet.. i'm going to assume those are probably shot and start with the other h22 block i have in the garage then for rebuild
yea now that you know it fits and is running, it will be easy to drop in another. getting it in there is the hard part.
wouldnt drive that like that for too long. the b20a i got did that for 20 minuites before pistons 1 and 2 decided to get go from their rod and make a nice hole in the side of the block
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