thx for the link, and wow im impressed, good luck guys!
thx for the link, and wow im impressed, good luck guys!
89 LX Coupe - 5 speed
they rent out argon tanks yah know, cheaper than buying and refilling it all the time
no update, just letting ya guys know the project isn't dead. it was close, but its not. somethings happened with work and family that has caused me to delay the project. the family thing has sorted itself out, and the work thing... still waiting to see what happens there.
its getting warmer out so i will be resuming work on the car in the next little while. it needs to be done for April at the latest for racing.
hope ya guys had good Christmas and new years.
chris v.
Oh man thats good to hear. i was woundering what was going on. Good to see that you got back on you feet man.
Rendon
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
dont forget the pics
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
x2.Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Gl with everyting man! hope ur work settles itself out. i know how hard it is right now...
Still keepin an eye on this thread..
Glad to see its still goin.. I know how it goes tho, tryin to build a race car and still live..
Keep up the good work..
Can't wait to see it done!!
updates please
...If you're ever confused about anything in life... it probably has something to do with money$...
ummm....
i put the body work on hold. found another car for my mom to drive(94 accord ex) so i can swap the front brakes from the se-i onto my hatch and do the wheel bearings at the same time...
i'm going to work on finalizing fuel,brakes,clutch,shifter... once thats all done i will resume the body work.. i just sick of only working on that right now.
its been slow...
Last edited by Vector; 02-10-2009 at 09:26 AM. Reason: had to think.
well at least you are keeping up updated
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i know what its like to complete something that seems like its a neverending task, but keep up the good work anyway man.
its actually not that bad, i've already swaped out my se-i suspension so now the hatch will have bigger brakes plus all the bushings and joints that were replaced 2-3 years ago in that car... a knocking noise developed alittle while ago in that car from the front and i've determined that it was a wheel bearing since everything else was reaplced. so i picked up 2 of those, just have to replace those which i will do this weekend and get the front end back together.
i've decided to go with a larger fuel cell as well (10-15gal) and most likely aluminum with a sending unit. as the one i'm using now is small and doesnt have a sending unit, and i dont like shitty fittings it has for the inlet outlet as they leak sometimes.
i also have a master cylinder from a 4g ex-r that i'm going to swap in as well, i hoping it will bolt up to my break booster. i will need this as i am now running much larger breaks all around.
i also need to rework my clutch master cyl, i want to eliminate the cable altogether as it feels like shit. if i do manage somehow to connect the clutch pedal to the cylinder without the cable, i try to get lots of detailed pictures so someone could help me put together a howto. i would imagine this would be usefull as someone has gotten b-series mounts copied for our cars.
thats pretty much all i can think of at the moment...
chris
there are hydraulic setups made for bugs and rear engine race cars, that could be adapted over to fix your clutch system. actually any clutch slave cyl and master could probably be adapted,just run steel brake line to the back to hook it up,the distance won't have any effect,just like your brakes in the back. you could se up a hym joint off of the pedal linkage and connect it to push the clutch cyl piston ,just like the linkage from the brake pedal.
its possible yes, can it be done without some fabrication somwhere, i doubt it.
there is not enough space between the brake booster and strut tower to fit a clutch mc so it can be pushed on by the pedal, therefor a shaft will have to come out through the firewall and pull a leaver in turn pushes on the mc... i have thought about the way the eg civs/dc tegs do it but there is not enough room to mount it straight to the firewall... dont worry i will have somthing figured out by tomorow..
it would take some fab wprk , but how bout putting the clutch mc inside the car under the dash.
make a push rod that mounts above the pivot of the clutch pedal and make a bracket to mount the mc so that it can face the push rod.
i'm sure i've seen some jap vans use a similar set up.
could b a a pain in the arse to make and unsure of the room you have which would be the biggest factor
that certainly is one option i was thinking of, and it would keep the cylinder clean to. the only draw back to having it inside the car so far would be if it were to start leaking, you know for sure to if it did this while your driving.
under my dash anyway there is a fair amount of room, I'm not sure if i want to actually remove the dash to install it there as its a pain in the ass to remove the dash, i would rather keep it in the engine compartment side so i can maintain it better and make adjustments and tweaks.
flammable liquid + hidden wiring = fire? hopefully not, but i wouldnt want anything holding any fluid inside the car, just because it would make a mess.
You have brake lines and fuel lines running through the car.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
yep. They run right by your feet near the door.You have brake lines and fuel lines running through the car.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
lol. I think the MC is a bit more likely to leak than lines are.
yea i think i'm gonna keep it in the engine compartment lol.
good to see you back on it, or at least checking in
it is the same with me, I havent done anything in months, but accomplished major progress this week
yea i started doing the bearings when i got home. i manage to get the old bearing out of the knuckle and the new one pressed in, however i ran into a problem with a piece of the old bearing still stuck on the hub itself... so i'm going to see if there is a tool available to remove that.. or i might just weld ears to it and use a bearing puller.
is the bearing inner stuck to the hub?
an old trick is cut a groove in it diagonally just bout all the way thru it and then get a big hammer and a big cold chisel and split it
thenit just slides off
yes it is... i thought of doing it that way but i'm affraid of scaring/scratching the hub itself, so i think after work i'm just gonna weld a couple bolts to it and use a pully puller or joint puller on it. using a joint puller, the hub came out nicely from the knuckle once i found somthing for the hooks to grab onto. so if i do it this way, it will prevent me from destroying it. which will happen if i go at it with a giant hammer and chisel while losing my temper lol.
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