digging the tan interior!
Looks exactly like mine did before 5 speedy besides that.
Definitely change those rims out and few more pics
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
digging the tan interior!
Looks exactly like mine did before 5 speedy besides that.
Definitely change those rims out and few more pics
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
Any updates?
i've fitted the rwd accord with 18's (35 series front,45 series rear) thanks to a friend so i can do fender work around them.
other than that nothing else changed.
the that last 3g i picked up i sold in favor of another toy i have never owned before, i will get pics on it, thanks for reminding me.
i'm trying to buy an 250c argon bottle for my welder, then the project will start back up again, i refuse to weld with without shielding gas after working with a friends welder with 025 wire.
sorry its taking so long.. between the house projects and lack of funds things are moving slow, but are still moving atleast.
this project is not dead. just idle.
yah get the argon for the shielding gas, your weld will be a better quality due to the decreased oxygen content and the weld will be stronger overall with mig. Stick/ arc welding doesn't really need he shielding gas, but its crude to mig. On a short term basis renting an industrial size cylinder of Ar gas might be cheaper than buying the tank. In the long run just buy the tank, refilling it is kinda cheap.
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
Hey man, good to see you're still on it.
As for the bottle, I was only able to purchase one(yes, actually BUY) from KMS. I believe it's good for 5 years.
Everyone else claims that you can't own a cylinder and that if you do it probably belongs to praxair or air liquide etc and will be claimed by the respective owner when you want a refill. It's really fucked up.
I would ONLY deal with KMS, they don't piss around they gave me exactly what I wanted and even filled it. No one else does this, you have to either drop your tank off to get refilled when it's convenient for them(praxair) or they send it away(air liquide) or you can trade it in(lordco), location dependant of course. I know you live in kelowna but never ever ever go to the penticton air liquide, serious retards in there.
250cu is really big, probably best bang for the buck(fill wise) but you'd have to be doing a lot of work!
i can get 250cf for alittle under 500 from kms filled, any thoughts on the mix?
since i'm new to gas welding, C25 (25% CO2 75% Argon) is probably what i want by the sounds of it.
once i get it, it will get used alot most likely.
Last edited by Vector; 11-01-2011 at 12:18 PM.
Yes, the 25% co2 and 75% argon is what I am running.
Welding with flux core wire is ok but it's messier and smokes a lot. Shielding gas is just so much nicer, especially if you're in a garage. C25 is the "standard" for mild steel but you can also use straight CO2. I own my tank as well and have yet to have a problem with refills. I just take the empty in to Airgas and they swap it for a filled one; no questions asked. I know some places only do rentals, and that's ok if you only plan to keep the tank for a couple years or so. Longer than that and it's cheaper to buy outright and swap for refills.
One thing though with a used tank, is that you might be charged a hydro testing fee if you bring in a tank that hasn't been tested in the last 10 years. It's never happened to me but I've heard about it.
C|
Now I've seen it all...that is one f*uckin' awesome project! Props on the swap and all the hard work you put in. Keep up the good work!!!
Had a question about the gauge cluster mod. My CEL keeps coming on for a code 17 (speed sensor). I've got the 3g manual speed sensor in the h22 tranny and I get a speedo reading but the CEL keeps coming on. I assume the EG cluster solved this problem by going electric. Can you post some details about the mod? Help would be greatly appreciated.
picked up a set of 88 legend knuckles cheap with 11" rotors. going to rework the frontend of the car to accept anything from these to cd5/7 knucles for my future cl brake upgrade.
reason for this is because under further inspection i see that the tires have made contact with the upper control arms. so i will be modding the towers to also accept the 4/5g upper control arms so they stay out of the way.. since the knuckles are ~2" longer i will need to make provisions for those in the wheel well. thinking of going tubular for front end..
H2289Acc:
i converted the cluster to electronic speedo because of this problem. apparently there is a way to get the stock 3g dash to talk to a obd1 ecu with a some diodes and resistor. but i wanted to eliminate the cable and go electronic.
if you don't want to convert away from the cable cluster, then there is a guide for obd0 clusters(w/vss) from crx's to obd1 ecus floating somewhere on the net.
fyi:
the ecu needs a 5v square wave signal from the vss. this is needed for the vtec to engage properly and other things for the ecu to operate properly while driving.
UPDATEs..!!!1!!11!
testing some rims 18x????? i will mesure then soon. (THANKS DARREN)
i lowered a few inches from having the winters on. aparently not enough.
before:
after:
lots of clearance on the inside of the rim to the knuckles.
Front:
Rear:
Last edited by Vector; 11-30-2011 at 09:48 PM.
So heres the next the project, converting the front to 4x114.3.
i was curious to see how far i could bury the wheel into the well with stock knuckle.
215/35/18 tire.
fitted a 5th gen knuckle
just noticed i didnt seat the taper on the upper..
I will use these un-modified.. i have a sweet solution for this that will require little work to the fender, and i get to keep the stock uca's.
The 97 accord knuckle about ~1.5" taller than the stock 3g
the 88 legend knuckle is about ~2.5 " taller than the stock 3g
Last edited by Vector; 11-30-2011 at 10:04 PM.
88 legend knuckle with 11" rotor
97 accord knuckle with 10" bitch rotor
89 accord Se-i/EX EFI knuckle 10" rotor
i'm going to try to use the legend knuckles since they are already setup for the larger rotor.
The socks i had made for the coilovers in 2010 did there job in protecting the ksports from the elements..
oh yea.. i almost forgot.. the car is running again to. i pulled the wiring last year. finally got around to building that custom harness.
its unfinished. but i will finish it once i get the front suspension sorted, dont ask me why i jump between projects, but its how i work.
more updates coming soon!!!!
Last edited by Vector; 11-30-2011 at 10:26 PM.
So why do you want to switch knuckles? If it's just because you want 11" rotors, you can do that with the stock knuckles. The longer knuckles are going to mess up the suspension geometry unless you relocate the UCA mounting point.
C|
IIRC, he's got 4g knuckles out back, so wants same bolt pattern all around which makes sense yo me.
i want not only larger brakes, but also right now the front is still 4x100 while the rear is 114.3. so i want to match them up. i do plan on moving the uca to compensate for the larger knuckle.
i don't feel like re drilling rotors either lol
as far as geometry goes i will be making it so i can adjust camber so geometry shouldn't be an issue as i will be able to tune it a certain way. when it comes time to test it, i have access to a g-meter/logger. i don't expect to have any side affects to handling at this point.
if anything, i'm looking for an improvement. and i will find it if its there. from a handling aspect i prefer this suspension design over civics/tegs because of how its geometry works compared to those cars. i've owned all 3. i found that with the same tires the accord handles alittle better. tires i used for testing were kumho victoracer v700 225/15/50, tested on a 92 civic, 97 integra, 89 accord sei, and my hatch. all cars were raced with the same logger.
Last edited by Vector; 12-01-2011 at 11:44 AM.
I think Fastbrakes sells the rotors pre-drilled; but yeah, having different bolt patterns front to rear is not so wonderful.
What I was thinking with the geometry is that with the LCA in the stock location, there is more angle on the UCA, which means you get more camber gain when the suspension compresses. This might be ok up to a point but too much will wear out the tires faster and have less traction.
I thought they were all pretty much the same in the front. What's the difference?
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civics and integras 90+ accords use an upper control arm that is mounted around the strut. ca5 accords arm mount between the firewall and strut. the suspension from my observation on these cars are more dynamic with camber/caster/axis, and would appear have alittle less bump steer as the knuckle is pulled toward the steering rack in 2 directions when compressed. correct me if my terminology is wrong.. but i understand how it works fully, just hard to explain. i know how i want it to work, there-for i will alter it how i see it should work in my head lol.
grab the 95 odyssy knuckles and convert to 5 lug
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
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Would love to down the road, right now I have to many rims for the car lol.
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