OK, who has done it, and how did you do it? Nothing has been removed yet, I still need to drive the beast daily...
Thanks!
Boltgunner
OK, who has done it, and how did you do it? Nothing has been removed yet, I still need to drive the beast daily...
Thanks!
Boltgunner
Heh. Gotta pull the driver's side axle and drop it down from underneath. You can pull it through the top if you suqeeeeeze it beteween the intake manifold and brake booster... I did that once and wound up ripping a whole bunch of shit on the car I was pulling it off of. It was a junker car anyways.
Haven't heard from you in a while... Get that 5200 carb going? I put one on my 84, but it's got a leaky throttle shaft.
I got away from it for a while, but am back at the mill working on the adapter.
I sure don't wanna mess with that axle, so if I remove stuff from above it will clear, eh?
Last edited by Boltgunner; 04-16-2008 at 04:09 AM.
It CAN come out the top. I dunno how well it will work if you've still got the stock carb on the car... I ripped a lot of shit off of that other car and it BARELY came out. To me, it's less work to pull the axle. Not counting the axle nut, there's only 3 bolts to pull out to get the axle out... Pull the spindle nut, the two swaybar bolts, and the pinchbolt to drop the lower control arm. Once the LCA is pulled, the axle should come right out. Of course then you gotta mess with tranny fluid, etc. But new tranny fluid is always good!Originally Posted by Boltgunner
Guess I am being lazy, plus I have never pulled an axle before...but I went out to the car at lunch and looked at it again from the top side and damn it is awful tight from the top.
Alternator is giving up good volts and the diodes are good, but only 30 amps.
Makes night time driving with the AC a battery eater.
You know, if I were seriously drunk, I would investigate making a hole in the floor just beneath the brake pedal so I could r & r the nater through the floor board. Them make a larger panel I could screw on and seal up. Just have to see if the hole placement/size would be a good idea before I cut. Now, if I had time and a junker it might be fun to try to do it on a donor first.
PM your e-mail address so I can keep you in photos of the adapter.
What is the socket size for the spindle nut, please?
Stu
Last edited by Boltgunner; 04-16-2008 at 09:30 AM.
32mm I think... or 1 1/4 inches. I think either of those work. Need to have your impact gun ready. I've done the alternator like 4 times on my car, once you get used to it, pulling the axle becomes a regular job. I can do it in about 20 minutes. :-P
OK, I got questions...
After the spindle nut comes off, does the axle slide readily out of the hub hole, or must you beat the crap outta it to get it out of the hole?
Do you torque the spindle nut, or just get it tight by hand?
Is the spindle nut thread the usual lefty loosey?
What do you use to pull the axle out of the transmission?
you might have to beat it out of there but it should come. the spindle nut should be impacted on really really tight. the nut is just a lefty loosey thread
seems like its fun to change the alt hope i dont have to do one
thanks mkymonkey
K
After the spindle nut comes off, the axle will slide out of the hub hole freely. It might be kinda stuck, but if it is, a couple taps should get it out. It shouldn't be stuck in there too bad. You need to disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower control arm. Once you do that, you will need to pull the knuckle and strut out away from the car, and that basically is the easies way to get it out of there.
Torque it to something like 80-90lb-ft.
Yes. It's not a reverse thread.
Any prybar will work or a big screwdriver. Pry between the transmission and the big end thing on the end of the axle. Good idea to get a new axle seal while you're doing this.
you might have to beat it out of there but it should come. the spindle nut should be impacted on really really tight. the nut is just a lefty loosey thread
seems like its fun to change the alt hope i dont have to do one
thanks mkymonkey
What is required in the way of tools to split the steering knuckle from the lower control arm?
I've always used my heavy ass brass hammer. Then I just hit the shit out of the control arm. The brass is soft enough to usually absorb most of the impact. Make sure you have the pinch bolt completely out of the knuckle before you do it or it will never come out. Just loosening it won't be enough.
If that doesn't work, you'll have to use some sort of ball joint separator or pickle fork. Good chance the pickle fork will fuck up the boot on the ball joint, so you will want to get a new LCA if you do that. About $80.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 04-16-2008 at 04:04 PM.
All this firepower just to extract an alternator. Honda baaad....
I actually like to separate the balljoint from the knuckle with the car on the ground, or preferably up on ramps with the weight still compressing the suspension. Before you think I'm drunk enough for the alt. replacement window in my floorpan, here's why: With the car's weight on the suspension, the lca, trailing arms and swaybars are in a neutral position in the center of their travel. With the car jacked in the air, I find I have to fight the arc of the lca's, plus the spring tension of the trailing arms and swaybar that are now at the extent of their travel.
So basically I pop out the balljoint bolt, open up the pinch clamp gap a bit with a cold chisel, pop the lca down with a picklefork, then jack the car up and proceed. It helps if you point the balljoint away from the hole in the knuckle, because it has a nasty habit of going back in.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Ah fuck I can vouch for it going back in. Goddamnit that's pissed me off numerous times.
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