how did you bleed them open the valve have some one pump 3 times then hold then tighten the valve
and i think you have to do them in a certain order including the rears
how did you bleed them open the valve have some one pump 3 times then hold then tighten the valve
and i think you have to do them in a certain order including the rears
I used a one man bleeder kit, which works surprisingly well. I think I found the problem. There must've been some fluid already in the rear left caliper so when I went to bleed it there was no air bubbles, and I thought it was fine. I went back out to bleed it, and once I got past the initial spurt of fluid the rest of the lines were dry for a bit before the new fluid got there. So hopefully that solves the problem. I'll check it out tomorrow though since it's getting dark now.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
so just for clarification, were you having trouble with the front or rear lowers?
I had to use the pickle fork for mine, but ended up needing to replace the balljoints because the excessive force needed to pop it with the fork caused the boot to rip. IF the boot did rip, either find a replacement boot kit (which I don't think exists anymore) or replace the joint. For now, just pack it with grease, but it'll go at the wrong time if you just ride on the ripped boot too long, which trust me, is not a good time when the ball-joint separates while driving.
-Mark D.
It was the front lowers that I had trouble getting off, and I ended up just replacing them anyway. I took it in for an alignment, and the guys there said I needed new lower ball joints. They were gonna charge me like 300 in labor, plus 70 for joints just to do the work. I ended up doing it in about 2 hours total. From teardown to all back together. I didnt' even disconnect the brake lines to do it. woot!
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
Did you have to press in the new ball joints on lower part of the hub?
that was my first thought too. Thos do have to be pressed in. I guess it can be done other ways, but a shop press is the safest way to go that I know of.Originally Posted by BITESIZE
-Mark D.
The hayne's manual just says to put a socket over it, and hammer them out, and then do the same thing to put them in. That's how I did it, and it was really easy.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
HMMM.....Might have to do mine someday if it's that easy. Wanna help me?
good to know, I think I'll at least try that to remove one. thx.
-Mark D.
sure dude. did you want to do it when you make the trip to Boise?HMMM.....Might have to do mine someday if it's that easy. Wanna help me?
on a side note you might have to hit it with a bit of heat first, but it's not that big a deal. I had to heat mine up because I'm a total wuss Computer programmer. After I got them started though they came out easy.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
yeah the mogg front ball joints are easy to put in...a few taps and they are all the way in.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I just killed a huge ass black widow spider. Its ass was as big as a gobstopper candy. She was in my sprinkler box buried in the lawn.
wrong thread?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
^^^Nope, just being random. Thought Trevor might like to know.
lol. I used to have one of those as pets. Ironically they're the only spiders that don't scare me. I'm a total arachnaphobe though if it's any other spider.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
ive always used a ball joint seperator as whenever ive used the picklefork it always smashes all the gearse out and tears the boot. As for the replacing of the ball joints in the arm thats the way Ive always done it unless they are machined in and non replacable. Good to hear the swaps are going ok
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