cool man let me know when you finish the orders you have now on the a20a pipes and well start on the b20a. Dont want to throw a wrench in the works by changing stuff to early. Anytime is good for me just send me a PM when your ready. Mike
cool man let me know when you finish the orders you have now on the a20a pipes and well start on the b20a. Dont want to throw a wrench in the works by changing stuff to early. Anytime is good for me just send me a PM when your ready. Mike
I think some one around here did get a base line dyno awhile back, if I can just find that thread.Originally Posted by NXRacer
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Yea I tried to look at all those different profiles, and then I looked at the race headers and half of them didn't seem to follow those basic principles. So I tried to stick with the basic principles as best i could but I didn't go with the 50/50 ratio of 1st to 2nd piping.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
yeah, I guess I was confusing myself about the cylinder pairing order..the cylinders that fire 360deg apart should be paired, and that would be 1&4 and 2&3 in this case. But it doesn't matter for me anyway...
When can i buy one? im ready for one now. i was just shopping for a header...
YOU CAN'T CALL IT IF IT KICKS YOUR %$#
Well I will be getting it dynoed on March 5 and after that I will figure what to do about production and the price. I wish were able to get a base dyno run first, but another guy did it a year ago and got 83hp/94tq on his 87 Lx-i and that goes with the typical 15% drivetrain loss. So NXRacer and his 86 Lx-i should be close to the same.
Last edited by Justin86; 02-24-2005 at 06:01 PM.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
with me getting ready to start planning a custom header, i'd like to see how this one does...
as for your flange, that's just a local job, right?
yea I had the flanges done locally with a CNC plasma.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
What are your thoughts... for those of you that wander around honda-tech
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1161501
...
I got my welder back from my friend... I'm gonna mess around, I haven't gotten my hands dirty in a while.
A stepped header delivers a short duration (short duration = narrow affected rpm range / long duration = broad affected rpm range) expansion wave when the positive pressure wave reaches the step.Originally Posted by 00Red_SiR
In headers the Positive waves exit through the exhaust valve and exhaust gases move in the same direction of the wave towards the open end of the pipe... once the positive wave exits the pipe is returns a negative suction wave that travels back up the pipe towards the cylinder... but the exhaust gases move opposite the direction of the negative wave. This is supposed to help lower the pressure in the cylinder and help it fill better. True that the smaller diameter also acts as a restriction to the exhaust gasses...
...it sounds like someone is suggesting they block negative expansion waves... the negative wave is what gives you the scavenging effect. Scavenging = so blocking the scavenging wave isn't a good thing... timing when it reaches the overlap period is.REVERSION is the secondary pressure wave that travels back up the primary pipes and enters into the cylinder on valve overlap. As this pressure wave travels back up the pipe, it brings with it all the residual gases still left in the pipe. This is what contaminates the fresh intake charge. Enter in stepped headers and ANTI-REVERSION chambers, placed at strategic locations in the primary pipes. These methods are employed to tune the arrival of the exhaust wave and to diminish the effects of the high pressure in the pipes. The results are higher volumetric efficiency and more power.
Reversion is usually when the exhaust gases enter the cylinder or intake manifold and act against the incoming air... usually it's because of high overlap cams operating at a low engine rpm. Or a poorly designed header.
I'd say a stepped header may add some low speed gains but I would rather tune the tube lengths and diameters to get the most power for my application.
I see Hytechs Anti-reversion chamber as an Expansion chamber that flows freely in one direction but not in the other... this is okay for limiting the exhaust from reentering the cylinders but when you expand gasses they slow down :thumbdown: .
Good exhaust systems usually try to keep exhaust velocity high ...without adding too much restriction which is what increases pumping work. :thumbdown:
Small pipes = More velocity
Small pipes = More restriction :thumbdown:
Large pipes = Less Velocity :thumbdown:
Large Pipes = Less restriction
I wont try to knock Hytech's idea... but I don't see why you would want it if you have a properly tuned header. IMHO
Originally Posted by 00Red_SiRI dunno... both my engine building book and the site quoted above say that the negative waves assist gas outflow.Originally Posted by http://www.yawpower.com/jantech.html
Maybe I am mis-labeling or mis-interpreted what hytech labels as a negative wave in relation to what I'm describing and thats where the confusion exists...
.
.
.
- llia
Well I designed the header for someone with more mods then basic and at least a 272 cam.
well no dyno yet, but here is what it sounds like with my new exhaust set up........
http://www.sirrommotorsports.com/pho...ebsexhaust.mov
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
new header pics
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=500527#post500527
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
yea but the only problem with that for me is having to get a spool gun($400) and a new tank for the CO2. If your current tank has the 75% CO2 mix you have to get a different tank for some reason to run the 100% mix. I'd rather save up to get a TIG
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Maybe find a old head with simmilar ports to the B20... then lay it on the A20 block and secure it down... it should give you some idea.Originally Posted by Justin86
- llia
Yea that what I'm thinking along as the deck height and oil pan clearences are similar to the A20
ok and we we say B20 you talking about the JDM accord B20 or the prelude B20. Other wise I could use a pic of the engine/oil pan, where I can get a head to weld on, and dimiensions of the engine. Hopefully the A20 block is similar other wise I would need the actual engine to make it fit for sure.
Last edited by Justin86; 03-26-2005 at 10:50 AM.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Its my 2 cents but I also recommend to go for TIG with Argon gas if possible. With TIG you can control the heat area much much accurate = constant welding bead = good strong finish. Especially with stainless steel, if you use gas-after-flow well, you don't need to do much after welding. I guess, the pipe wall thickness would be a couple of millimeters and the falnge will be like 9 mm so if the TIG welder can handle 120 Amp that would be fine. There are lot of option available these days - pulse, step etc - but unless you use thin sheet under 1mm or welding gas tank, the basic one - just on/off plus gas after flow control - will do the job. Good luck.Originally Posted by Justin86
Last edited by epic1400cs; 04-30-2005 at 02:55 AM. Reason: correct figures
yea you read my mind and I have been in the market for picking up a TIG and plasma cuter, maybe some other goodies. I want to start working with aluminum and SS more and the TIG is the best bet. I like the MIG a lot for welding thicker steel but when I starting welding thinner stuff it took me awhile to get a good weld. It was either too hot or not enough penetration at first.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Sir Justin 86, yes TIG is the king. If you want to work with aluminuium, you might want AC/DC out put switch - alu wants to be welded in AC than DC. Also for thin material, step will be handy to control the heat build up they say, but the price will be very expensive. I have worked with TIG first as a job and recently I have bought MIG for my DIY project. Portable MIG is good for its price but DIY range doesn't come with variable amparege control - like low, mid, high and I need to control heat build up by welding speed and wire speed. So you cant always weld with your best condition. Also you grip the TIG torch like pencil, not like stick, which give you more accuracy.Originally Posted by Justin86
the level of dedication in your work is amazing man...i am really impressed...alas i have have an Lx-i EFI engine....and further down the road id be really interested in purchasing one...maybe ill just have to get the DC Sports one...good work tho man
"But no matter how much you tune it, it is still just an 86."
Kyoichi Sodou
~Initial D
MOds: bunch...if you see blue streak by catch up to me and ill show you ^_^
i've been rolling with this header and you dont really need a dyno to show the crazy gains in response and power.
Dyno numbers would deffinately be nice though.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
what ever happened to Justin86's header?
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
So this means us guys without headers are still screwed. I might buy a used header just because there is nothing else. Where can you get a used one? I am also wondering what the down pipe diameter is? Anyone know what the DC sport header down pipe size is?
I see. I wish I knew about this forum before I had my exhaust redone. 2" cat back. I would have to replace all that piping to take any advantage of a header. The guy at the shop told me anything bigger than 2" would be anti-beneficial. Started rattling off about back pressure. What about scavenging you !#%*&.
It is all we can still get that is commersial.
Why restriction? A choke?
Last edited by A20A1; 02-17-2006 at 09:23 PM.
I'm still lost as to what to do Exhaust wise, A guy told me $280 for a 2.5" Cat back with magnaflow muffler. What headers would be best? like I heard Pacesetters weren't that good but a good number of people use them on here.
Catch me if you can!
looks like those guys could make sum sick ass headers...at a pretty penny...
Does this cteate a vaccume effect to suck the gasses out? What if you just ran the four header pipes all the way back to the bumper and had four exhaust pipes? I know this is rediculous but what would that do?
It would sound like a motorcycle... (Harley)
You would hear the individual cylinders firing.
You wouldn't get any assistance from one cylinder creating vacuum for the other cylinder since the pipes don't merge thru/into one.
- llia
Bookmarks