Extra clutch pedal free play?

[Hazwan]

I've noticed my clutch pedal stuck when I first started the car every morning. I thought it was normal at first since my car is been stored as the road tax has expired last February and I simply started her up twice a week.

Few days ago I've noticed the stuck pedal problem has gone, but there is an extra 1" play before I can feel the clutch itself engage/disengage. The rod from master cylinder connected to the pedal moves but it won't do anything within the 1".

What could be the problem? Is there anything that I could adjust? Both master and slave cylinder has been rebuilt a year ago and the hose replaced. Fluid is okay.

[2oodoor]

are you still getting full travel of the clutch fork through the slave cyl? You will have to drive it to see if anything is possibly temporaryily stuck... can try bleeding the slave cyl to tighten up the pedal.
for Cable clutch people, it is good to have free play 1-2 inches.

[Hazwan]

are you still getting full travel of the clutch fork through the slave cyl? You will have to drive it to see if anything is possibly temporaryily stuck... can try bleeding the slave cyl to tighten up the pedal.
for Cable clutch people, it is good to have free play 1-2 inches.

yes, im getting full clutch travel, at least I thought so since I could shift the gears/drive around without any problems. I could press the pedal within the 1" range without moving the clutch fork.

[2oodoor]

maybe somebody else will other information, but it sounds like it could be just the naturel wearing down of the disc unless some air or moisture settled in the slave cyl

[Hazwan]

maybe somebody else will other information, but it sounds like it could be just the naturel wearing down of the disc unless some air or moisture settled in the slave cyl

i doubt its the disc worn down, its perfectly fine before. I'll see if bleeding would help.

Also, I think my car has ridiculously high pedal travel, I've driven another 1g before and its a lot shorter than mine. How do I adjust the clutch? Anyone with manual could send me a scan or something?

[2oodoor]

if this was already a somewhat problem that is different, most cars I have seen with hydralic clutch do not have much if any adjustment. You may have a little adjustment at the plunger, kinda like a rear brake adjuster wheel, you could possibly add shims there too. Not certain on a 1G though.
Those "wet" clutchs mostly have integral design as far as movement parimeters and over the years of machining the flywheel down, aftermarket clutches and various pressure plate designs,,, you will have different free play from one car to the next on those.

[2ndGenGuy]

The clutch is super easy to adjust. Theres the rod on slave and it has two nuts that lock eachother together to keep from moving. If you just undo the locknut, you can twist the adjuster nut to adjust the position of the clutch fork on the slave cylinder rod.

Also try pumping up your clutch. If you can pump the clutch, and the free play seems to go away, you have air in your lines and will need to bleed it.

[Hazwan]

The clutch is super easy to adjust. Theres the rod on slave and it has two nuts that lock eachother together to keep from moving. If you just undo the locknut, you can twist the adjuster nut to adjust the position of the clutch fork on the slave cylinder rod.

Also try pumping up your clutch. If you can pump the clutch, and the free play seems to go away, you have air in your lines and will need to bleed it.

How much I should adjust the rod? Whats the factory spec of the adjustment? Also, I could press within the 1" play without moving the rod on the secondary slave at all. And I've tried pumping the clutch and no difference.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hmm, if you are pushing the clutch, and the rod on the slave isn't working, either you've got air in the lines or a bad seal on one of the cylinders. I'd try bleeding it out with some fresh fluid and see what happens. If is still does that, you need either a new master or slave. I don't think there's any adjustment at all in the clutch pedal that I can remember...

[Hazwan]

Tried bleeding it, still the same. Also, there is some debris coming out with the fluid from the bleed screw. The fluid is dark too. I guess the seals are bad?

How do I rebuilt this thing (again). It seems simple enough by watching my mechanic did last time and I'd like to do this on my own.

[Hazwan]

I got the master cylinder out. The bore and piston are really dirty, but no rust or anything (if they rust at all?) The rubber seals are fine, at least they appears to be fine. I'm cleaning them off and see if they would work.

How do I take the slave cylinder off? Do i need to take off the pushrod from the fork(?) I don't want to screw any adjustment if theres any.

[Hazwan]

I've got everything back together again and everything is working fine w00t!

You can see how dirty it was. The piston won't go back all the way causing the extra play.







I couldn't get the lower bolt holding the slave cylinder off though. I'd leave it alone for now, I'll keep an eye on the fluid and see if theres any problem later on.

[2ndGenGuy]

w00t! Glad you got it fixed. Good too see a thread end so well. Was there any adjustment from the pedal to the master cylinder?

[Hazwan]

Theres an adjustable lock nut near the pushrod, but I have no idea how much to adjust and stuffs. I'd leave it alone for now unless I happen to find the factory measurement. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Messing around with old stuffs like this isn't really a good idea. Trust me I know this from experience

BTW what caused the corrosion inside the cylinder? Its as dirty as the last time both cylinders are rebuilt. My mechanic said the pipe is old and letting some crud getting in the fluid, and I doubt its the pipe again since its brand new. How do I prevent the same thing from happening again?

[2ndGenGuy]

I'm not sure why you'd be getting so much corrosion like that. How long ago was that replaced? Could be that your reservoir lid isn't sealing very well. Brake fluid absorbs moisture very well, and I think that's inevitably what causes this. I know I'm going to be in need of a new lid on my brand new master cylinder. The rubber diaphragm is dissolving into my fluid and turning my fluid black!

I think the only way you can keep this from happening is regular flushing of the fluid and making sure you have a good seal on the master cylinder. Good news is bleeding it isn't too hard.

[2oodoor]

Is that a brass piston?

[Hazwan]

Is that a brass piston?

Steel I think.