Paint job on your 3g?
I think Im just gonna go ahead and get my entire car repainted after the accident.. I'm too worried about paint not matching and all that stuff. Anyone got a rough estimate of what I'm looking at for a full respray of the infamous polar white? Thanks guys.
stay away from macco thats all i can tell u
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
haha naturally.
it's been a while since I had any of my cars painted, the last one to get done was my 63 bug, that was in the early 90's and it cost me $3500.00 back then
..jesus lol.
I definitely don't have that much to spend =P I was hoping to get away with like around 600-800$ haha.
then macoo is your spot lol a decent job of theres can last up to 8years depending on how well it was doneOriginally Posted by codyJDM
you just have to call around localy and ask
all i know is my donor car was painted by macco in 2005 and all the paint is allready pealing off
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Which part are damaged? If its the bumper, you shouldn't worry much as they won't be that noticeable compared to new paint on fender vs old paint on the door. Any decent shop will able to match the old paint.
spend the money on prep work
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Color matching isn't as big a deal as it used to be, what with computer color matching and all.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I was thinking about going to Maaco for some body work. I know their reputation isn't the greatest, but the paint has a warrranty that's like 3 or 4 years and if it starts to peel after that, I can just get it repainted since it's low cost. They quoted me $2k to fix rust on both wheelwells and the floor, remove the logos on the back and fill the holes, fill the hole left by the rear wiper motor, fill the hole left by the antenna and repaint the entire car from burgandy to dark blue including door jambs and stuff.
Seemed very reasonable. A local bodyshop wanted $1300 just to fix the wheelwells and floor rust.
Ken
"Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with every Microsoft product."
plesse dont shave the rear wiper!!!!!!
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Hell no my rear wiper is staying!!
I love that thing lol.
Sorry about lack of updates, work and school are killing me.
My car will be up and running again friday, Ill have pics posted asapI'm gonna have my bumper done at a local shop btw, it'll turn out nice.
600-800 isnt really to much for a good paint job. It will probably be good for a year or two. I had my car painted and it came out to 6,000.00 for just the paint job of the interior and exterior of the car. They did 6 coats of dupont paint and 3 coats of dupont clear. My best advise to you if ur going to be short on money is to do as much prep work as possible. for example remove trim, remove bumpers, remove taillights, ect ect.. and if u know how to remove all the small dings and dents. Id say u can get a decent paint job for about 2k to 3k
$6000? does that include the engine bay as well? what color was it painted? but yeah removing all the stuff yourself would be the easy & cheap part of it all lol
No pics no care.
lol.....
<< I was thinking about going to Maaco for some body work. I know their reputation isn't the greatest, but the paint has a warrranty that's like 3 or 4 years and if it starts to peel after that, I can just get it repainted since it's low cost. They quoted me $2k to fix rust on both wheelwells and the floor, remove the logos on the back and fill the holes, fill the hole left by the rear wiper motor, fill the hole left by the antenna and repaint the entire car from burgandy to dark blue including door jambs and stuff. Seemed very reasonable. >>
Maaco is cheap, and for the money I don't think anyone can touch them. The quality is uneven, because they usually hire new guys that are there to gain experience, so what you want is not to be the painter's first couple of cars, or the body guy's first couple of cars. After they get their experience at Maaco, they go somewhere that will pay them better. Sort of like getting your hair cut at one of the mall walk-in Supercut places: maybe it's great, maybe it isn't. Quick and dirty *can* be ok.
My SE-i has small rust in both rear arches, with nothing more than a couple of door dings everywhere else. The bumpers need to be repainted (and that generally means new covers) for sure. I got an estimate from a perfectionist painter with a very together shop in Bridgeport, CT: no door jambs, same SE-i graphite grey, cut out rear arches and weld in new pieces. One month to do the job, $4,500 - $5,000. They do all the work.
IMO, I say either go with a Maaco or go all-out. Halfway doesn't make sense to me.
Last edited by w261w261; 05-08-2008 at 09:05 AM.
The burger hit the nail on the head right there if you're considering a Maaco job. What you pay for at a good body shop, or specialty paint shop is the labor. Labor for actually spraying the paint itself is only a small fraction of the price. The majority of the labor is in the prep work. Oddly enough, as it was explained to me by a local supplier for car detailers (ardex products = awesome stuff btw, that's all I use now), Maaco has such a high volume of cars that they are able to purchase premium quality paints much less than anyone else. That's how Maaco is able to offer the 3-4 yr. warranty. If it were'nt for the high quality paint on their crappy prep, the paint would be peeling and fading in no time.
I had my car painted at Maaco, but I did nearly all of the prep work on my own. Strip off anything from the exterior that you don't want to get overspray on. ...and I mean everything like side moldings, door handles, all tail, headlight, corner, marker etc lenses, bumbers, antenna, window trim, etc. Why? Again, they blow with their prep work, which includes taping things off carefully. Don't let them do any rust repair. All they will do is bondo (unless something's changed in recent years) up the rust, instead of doing it right which means cutting out the rust and welding new material in place of it, then at least priming the inside of the panel too (otherwise it'll rust out in no time).
Block the entire car (aka. scuff it with sandpaper, scotch-brite pad, etc) after washing the car with a detergent based wash (laundry detergent is not a bad idea), which will cut the wax off the surface. Much of the reason paint peels is because there's no adhesion of the new paint to the surface being painted. You may also want to ask them to prime the car before painting, which is not very necessary as long as none of the existing surface is down to bare metal. Painting over paint is fine (again, as long as the surface has been prepped properly).
Do that, and go for the Maaco job. You have to ask yourself what your plans are (and be realistic) for your car. If you want to turn it into a show-car, then save your pennies and get a 3-5K job. If not, and you just want it to look good, Maaco it is.
Also, like w261 said, ask around for a shop that has a good painter. When I brought mine up to the Maaco I used, I was up there a few times and talked to the painter and quote-guy a few times to ask them what I could do to make it easier, and ensure the best job possible understanding that I should not expect concours quality from them. This way when they finally got the car, they knew I had put a lot of time into it, and had pride in it, so they took a little more time and care in doing as best a job as they could.
Sorry for the hideously long post.
Last edited by markmdz89hatch; 05-08-2008 at 12:36 PM.
-Mark D.
I appreciate the long post Mark. I found a good shop here in my town that quoted me 180$ to paint match my bumper along with clearcoat. Its already prepped and primed and off the car as well so they should have no problems. I also thought to myself that I could do my bumpers black, but I just don't know if I could live without how sexy the white and black contrast on my front bumper is. I dunno. I'm probably just gonna take them up on that 180$ offer and get it back to normal again.
np. As for painting the bumpers or leaving them black, I think it's obvious which direction I would go if asked to paint or not to paint. Anyway, good luck with whatever you do.
-Mark D.
im personally hard for that color changing paint. antone know much about it or how it works? can it be any color? im planning some future body plans for winter. shave the antenna, trunk key, swap the coupe handles for rear sedan handles. id love to shave the moulding but too extensive for me
Well this is how my bumper looked before the accident
..and after, in its not-so-wonderful primer state. And as for my lip, it got dragged under the car and it f'ed up the way it fits on the sides. Im having quite the dilemma with that.
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